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Routes in Eagle Wall

Dances with Beagles T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Eagle Dance T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A0+
Kaleidoscope Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Levitation 29 T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mountain Beast T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Rainbow Buttress T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ringtail T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 1200 ft, 10 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Jorge & Joanne Urioste
Page Views: 2,239 total, 19/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Jun 26, 2008
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Climb the long first pitch of the Rainbow Buttress to the big ledge. Scramble right to a small pine tree. Climb the face past an uninspiring old bolt in less inspiring rock. Then climb cracks up and right, eventually belaying at a platform to the left of the big chimney system.

Face climb up and right to gain the cracks of the main chimney. Pass the big overhang and continue up the cracks on the left for a few pitches. The route joins Rainbow Buttress on the large ledge with the pine tree, one pitch below the top.

Hike west and follow the standard Oak Creek descent route.

Location

Go up Oak Creek following the standard Eagle Wall approach. Continue to highest, easternmost ledges on the ramp system and start at the same place as Rainbow Buttress.

Protection

Standard rack. Until the bolts get replaced, a couple of screamers won't go unused.
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
This thing starts out mediocre and just gets worse. The top half is all gully stomping with an occasional tree to bushwhack through. It's easy for the grade but there's not a whole lot of pro and the rock is somewhat questionable. There are better adventure climbs to be had in Red Rock. Definitely link pitches or it'll take you all day. Strong parties can easily solo to the bottom of the 4th pitch where the real climbing begins, and doing that will get you to the top in 4-5 roped pitches. The top half involves a lot of chimney climbing which can be time consuming, so leave yourself enough daylight. Dec 3, 2009