Type: Trad, Sport, Aid, 900 ft, 11 pitches, Grade V
FA: Jorge and Joanne Urioste 3/80
Page Views: 21,530 total · 119/month
Shared By: phil broscovak on Feb 19, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


This route is really easy to follow as it takes all the obvious weaknesses and follows enough bolts to never get lost. From a shallow dihedral 50 feet east of a 150' pillar the climb goes up through the Eagles neck on the standard 5th pitch. The overhanging bolt ladder on the 8th pitch is a sandbag but the incredible positioning makes for a pleasant aid pitch. The route continues all the way to the top of the wall and that is worth doing. However most people rap 1 or 2 pitches after the bolt ladder as it is just so convenient to rap. This a fabulous must do Urioste classic.


many bolts supplemented with trad gear


M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
  5.10 C0
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
  5.10 C0
In total, seventy-two 22-year-old bolts were replaced in March 2002 by the ASCA. What a monumental effort! Feb 20, 2004
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
Two ropes to rappel... With a single 60m rope, the penultimate rappel will leave you *close* to the last set of rap anchors. (If you weigh less than 175 pounds, even the rope stretch won't get you there.) Feb 21, 2004
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
I have heard that the last two pitches are currently harder to free climb and/or more runout than any of the previous pitches, as they are sandier and holds have broken off. Also I believe the ASCA did not replace the bolts on these pitches, so they are still only protected with a few quarter inch bolts. Anyone with recent personal experience on these pitches care to comment? Feb 23, 2004
George, the second to last pitch has new bolts. The climbing is pretty sandy and sustained up strange v-groove. The last pitch is around 5.7 with gear and a few old bolts. Feb 27, 2004
An excellent climb that I thought offered better value than Levitation. Don't stress over the "aid" section -- it's quite short and the bolts are very close together. You might do well to skip the belay immediately after the aid and link the next pitch in order to avoid a hanging belay directly below hard moves. Rock and Ice published a SuperTopo of the climb which listed a 10c pitch somewhere below the aid, around P5; this pitch was considerably easier than the two 5.10 pitches immediately after the aid. Feb 27, 2004
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
We found the second to the last pitch to be pretty freaky and weird. The first (brand new!) bolt wiggles visibly and does not give you great confidence. I think this poor bolt is due to the soft rock and not the bolting job. The rock on this pitch is sandy and slopey, I decided to back off after clipping the second bolt (this one at least looked bomber). This pitch looks easy, but may be the crux of the route! May 6, 2004
Couple of thoughts:

Even though the aid section can be done with slings it is not as simple as one might think. I found that moving into the crack/groove at the end of the bolt ladder was non trivial. I certainly did not feel comfortable going it "free" into the groove right after the last bolt. (traverse to the left)

The climbing to reach the hanging belay above the "Trash and Dangle" and the next short section looked awkward and hard. Possibly harder and certainly weirder than anything on the route up to that point.

I found that a pair of light aiders and a fifi hook made this whole section way more pleasant and secure.

Side note: Due to the overhang and traverse, it proved impossible to "throw" my aiders to my belayer once I made it to the top of the pitch. He in turn had to trash and dangle until he reached the crack where I could lower the aiders to him. May 10, 2004
as another poster mentioned, the first or second bolt on the last normal pitch (below the slabby gear pitch to the top) is way loose. ie: i figured i could probably pull it out if i wanted to. the hole looks broken out at a glance. may need a new hole. i remember being pretty unhappy about it, because it guards a hard move.

as for the aid section, i had really good luck with double length slings as my aiders. i knotted the tops, eight inches down or so, with uneven webbing, so the top had a nice grab handle.

clip a draw to the aid bolt. clip the rope to the draw. clip your 'aider' to the top biner of your draw. step into it. repeat. it was really pretty cruiser. if you're getting bored/tired, clip your daisy to the bolt and hang for a bit. above the traverse where the bolts run out i was pretty sketched out about switching to free climbing for the last 10 feet, so i popped a 3/4" or 1" cam in there and got at least one move out of it. the move i bypassed looked pretty stiff, but ill be the first to admit im a pansy. Apr 11, 2005
more beta- a 70m line will rap the entire route on a single rope. be careful rapping the second pitch as there will only be a couple feet of rope left when you hit the rap anchor out left of the route. Apr 11, 2005
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
  5.10d A1
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
  5.10d A1
We did this through pitch 8, a little beyond the aid section, on 15 November. We saw what we thought was a peregrine falcon at the cave at the top of pitch 3. It landed in the cave and screeched at me just as I was getting ready to second p4!

The aid pitch worked pretty easily with a bunch of shoulder length slings, but an etrier per climber would certainly speed things up. It was my partner's intro to aid climbing!

We both thought the crux was getting up the slot just beyond the aid. Nov 29, 2005
NOTE: The left bolt at the belay above the cave was loose when we climbed it on 04/09/06. I finger tightened it as I did not have a wrench.Also, several loose plates exist on the route that will likely pull off with any substantial pressure.
This is a fantastic route that is worth the big approach. Apr 13, 2006
Rumor is that the aid section went free the other day. Hopefully more beta will be on the way by the person who did it.

Jason Apr 15, 2006
Ian Wolfe
Fayetteville, NC
Ian Wolfe   Fayetteville, NC
No way! That's nuts! I'm impressed. Sep 16, 2006
I may be alone in my stance (Geir may support me on this), but I found the third pitch to be more difficult than all the other pitches up to the top of seven. We bailed at the top of the bolt ladder due to time constraints, but after reading the previous comments, I am glad we did! Excellent route. Nov 6, 2007
Brad G  
Can the aid pitch go free at a reasonable grade? Dec 27, 2007
David Shiembob
slc, ut
David Shiembob   slc, ut
I did this route on Sunday, a few comments. The first .10c crux is straightforward face climbing. The bolt ladder is no big deal imho, I've never aid climbed and got through it just fine with a daisy, a couple slings, and a belayer willing to take and give me slack. The pitch right past the bolt ladder has 10 feet of climbing that has become harder than .10b, but well bolted, so again, no big deal. The last .10c pitch was pretty bad though. The first bolt sucks, and protects hard moves. There is also a run from the 2nd to 3rd bolts. The only way I could do it was climbing on the face left of the corner, making for a spicy lead. However, the route is worth topping out, because the walk off is awesome.

Link pitches 1 and 2, 5 and 6, 7 and 8, and 10 and 11. The route is then only 7 pitches. Oct 15, 2008
steve edwards
steve edwards   SLC, UT
I've heard the bolt ladder goes free at 12c. Any comments about this? I suppose we can just go have a look but beta is always nice. Also, what size is the loose bolt? I'll bring a wrench. Dec 4, 2008
David Shiembob
slc, ut
David Shiembob   slc, ut
The actual bolt hole seemed to be wearing out, due to the soft rock, so I'm not sure it can be tightened. I believe it was 3/8ths though. As far as the traverse going free, I can't give much beta, other than to say I think you'd have to put shoulder length draws on all the bolts as they are too high to clip from where the free stances would be. Dec 30, 2008
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10 C0
J W   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10 C0
the left hand bolt on the anchor at the top of the .10c pitch is still loose- and will stay that way- the bolts are too far apart, and every time someone rappels, it pulls the left anchor counterclockwise, loosening the bolt. i finger tightened it- and would suggest everyone do the same. not sure a wrench would help.

only bring a rack to a #1 camalot, i think- never did need the #2 and never felt run-out. there's a bolt wherever its hard.

also, imho, the rock quality degrades enough after the 4th pitch to make the upper portion of the climb not really worth doing. instead, i'd get up really early, do the first 4 of eagle, then fire levitation-- then you'd get all the awesome pitches on that wall in a single outing!

finally, if you're strong and energetic, you dont need any slings for your feet on the bolt ladder- just take and reach- i only needed slings for one bolt (through the roof)- and it was mostly because i wasnt feeling super strong. the rest, though, were easy. (i'm 5'10" with 0 ape for reference) Mar 15, 2009
Boise, ID
  5.10b A0
MJW   Boise, ID
  5.10b A0
Did this route the other day.....really fun! We found all bolts to be in good shape...no loose hangers, etc. I found both 'crux' pitches to be no harder than 10b. The upper/last crux pitch has a runout between the 2nd and 3rd bolt which protects with whatever gear you brought up to protect the lower sections. I didn't think the rock quality on this pitch was as bad as advertised. Yes, it was a bit sandy in spots and some of the holds are ready to snap but there are bolts/pro every 8ft so enjoy the choss factor. The climbing itself on this pitch was really fun groove-type climbing compared to the generic edge pulling you do for most of the lower route. I'd also recommend climbing past the hanging belay above the bolt/aid ladder. The moves are a bit tough to start wilst being smashed up against your partner in this awkward spot. Med nuts, TCU's, and cams up to a RED camalot was more than enough pro. Apr 27, 2009
Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10 A0
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
  5.10 A0
Another beauty on the Eagle Wall. I lead the aid pitch (never done any aid before) with a PAS and draws and it was surprisingly straightforward. As others have mentioned, it is best to link the aid pitch with the next pitch to avoid a truly heinous hanging belay. I would say that the climbing is no harder than 5.10b if you don't go past the aid pitch, but the two pitches after the aid are surprisingly tricky. Rapping with a 70m rope worked well.

Since the route description seems to be missing this, here's my pitch by pitch beta.

P1: 5.8/5.9. Fun crack and face climbing.
P2: 5.8/5.9. Similar to the first pitch, also fun.
P3: 5.10a. A terrific, sustained pitched with a low crux.
P4: 5.10b. Another great pitch with a high crux.
P5: 5.9. Slabby climbing on softer rock but still good.
P6: 5.10a. Interesting movement on unnerving loose flakes.
P7: AO. Poorly protected but easy climbing lead to 8 close bolts. Tricky moves after the bolt ladder can be aided with cams or free climbed.
P8: 5.10c? This pitch felt hard, especially because I linked it with the bolt ladder (still a good idea). Awkward and soft rock.
P9: 5.10d? Similar to the previous pitch but more sustained. Soft rock with holds just waiting to break and make it even harder.

We rapped from P9 with a single 70m, but another pitch and some scrambling lead to the top. Jan 1, 2010
Eric D
Eric D   Gnarnia
Giving this a grade V is a huge stretch. Considerint that all belays are bolted and the climbing is well bolted, this is a IV.

Competent climbers should bring no aid gear. The bolts are tight enough so that you can pull on draws and step on bolts to clip the next bolt, and repeat. For both leader and follower. Nov 13, 2012
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.10+ A0
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.10+ A0
Definitely not a Grade V. Good route though. Mar 16, 2013
  5.10c A0-1
  5.10c A0-1
bolt ladder takes literally 3 minutes for leader. need 2 slings.
Also pro is good in the upper pitches. its bolted. Apr 25, 2013
Las Vegas, Nevada
  5.10+ A1
Likeasummerthursday   Las Vegas, Nevada
  5.10+ A1
Climbed this 3 weeks ago on a sunny weekday. This route is very sunny! We approached via the north fork of the canyon to the big pine trees then up and right on the slab/ramp. The approach is long but very straightforward. Stay right and out of the wash for as long as you can. Then it's all boulder-hopping till you get to the two tall pine trees that straddle the wash. Follow the well-cairned slab up toward the Eagle Wall starting at the pine tree on the right. Oh, if you are wondering if you've reached the pine trees yet, then you have not. They are unique and HUGE!

We carried a single 70, gear to a #1 with some extra small pieces and a set of nuts. We never wished for anything larger. We linked pitches as follows and would do the same again:1/2, 5/6 and 7/8. Pitch two eats a lot of small nuts and thin gear in the thin seam. There are, by the way, a lot of bolts on this route. We decided we would shoot for the summit and walk off, so we didn't leave anything at the base.

Pitch 8 changed our minds, though. The bolt ladder went smoothly enough with some long slings. The move out of the aid into the slot protects well but felt like a sandbag and a joke at 5.8. Following beta here, I linked the following pitch (p8) with the aid pitch. It was totally different than anything else on the route and felt WAY harder than the 4th 'crux' pitch I led. It is sandy, slopey, overhanging climbing in an awkward shallow groove. It is bolted, though, and the bolts are good. After grunting through this pitch, we looked at p9 and decided to rap. Pitch 8 may have felt harder than it otherwise would have on account of linking it with the aid pitch and the strenuous moves out of the ladder and into the slot, but it was hard nonetheless. I agree that stopping to belay after the bolt ladder would be awkward at best and would position the belayer for the next pitch directly below the leader working through the hardest moves on the route thus far.

We thought overall that the rock on this route was generally not as bad as advertised. It is indeed a phenomenal route in an incredible position. My partner and I couldn't stop talking about making another move to the next best "sloping crimper"... or was it..."crimpy sloper"? I would definitely recommend not stopping at pitch 4. The bolt-ladder goes smoothly and is in an incredible position, too.

CAUTION: The bolt above the small roof on the ladder is WAY OUT of the rock. The bolt looks fairly new, but it is more than an inch out of the rock. It appears that this bolt must get repeatedly torqued outward as it is used to aid out from underneath the roof. If this bolt pulled with a ladder on it, somebody could take the lip of the roof in the face. More challenging even would be trying to move past this roof without a bolt...or a hook?

I look forward to going back and sending this route to the top. Oct 27, 2014
Gary N
Durango, CO
  5.10b/c A0+
Gary N   Durango, CO
  5.10b/c A0+
I laughed when I saw that bolt sticking that far out of the rock. I wiggled it around and didn't feel very confident in it. There was a good BD .5 C4 placement I used instead. Jan 3, 2015
Richard Shore
  5.10d A0
Richard Shore  
  5.10d A0
If you rap before P11, you haven't done the route - don't bail after P4 or before P9 as others have suggested above. The crux P9 is IMO the best pitch on the route - a technical flaring groove with funky body English. One of the most scenic walk-offs I've done in RR, down cascading pools and slabs in the upper reaches of the canyon. 2.5 hours from the summit to the car, including a swim. Probably no longer than the time it would take you to rappel and reverse the approach slabs. Mar 11, 2015
Seattle, WA
JCM   Seattle, WA
Climbed this on a nice sunny day in November 2015. A few thoughts on approach/descent/gear/etc:

Approach: Of the 3 options, I have done the "4th class" and the "5th class" approach, as described in the Handren guide. The "5th class" approach is definitely superior; it is faster and avoids most of the annoying boulder hopping. I generally am not too psyched about unroped 5th class, but this was super mellow; any steep bits were extremely secure jug hauling. Routefinding was not too bad.

Topping out: DO IT! Seriously, the top out made the route IMO. The climbing is fun, but what makes it a cool day is the whole package of doing a bunch of pitches, topping out, and having a really awesome walk off the back. Climbing X number of pitches and then rapping off at an arbitrary point would be quite dissapointing in comparison. If you just want to climb 4-6 pitches of varnished face climbing and then rap off, there are better choices in Red Rocks that offer much easier approaches. Save this route for when you want the full adventure.

Walk Off: Long but pleasant, a bit of a canyoneering adventure. Very scenic. The Handren beta is good. Generally well cairned and easy to follow. Would still suck to do in the dark, so start early and move quickly on the route. After finishing lunch on the top, it took us about 3 hours total from top to car. I wouldn't do this if it were wet/icy/snowy in the gully; there are two descent cruxes that go down very slick water-polished bowls. Sticky rubber is nice. If in doubt, skirt these to skier's left.

Gear: We took X4s 0.2-0.4, C4s 0.5-1, a blue mastercam, a grey alien, a single set of small to medium nuts, and 14 draws/slings. This was plenty of gear. You could easily get away without the extra finger size pieces (the mastercam and alien). You could place a larger (~C4 #2) cam on the final 5.9 pitch, but you can get by just fine with the smaller cams (so save youself the weight; nothing bigger than #1). Having lots of draws/slings was nice. 14 draws and a 70 lets you link pitches, with some backcleaning and bolt skipping to save draws. You could use more, but it probably wouldn't be worth the weight.

Pitch difficulty: After the bolt ladder, the rock changes from pleasant incut holds on dark varnish to funky corner/groove climbing on rounded softer rock. The grades above the bolt ladder feel much stiffer, but the protection is good (bolts).

Bolt ladder: No aiders/daisies required. Standing in slings not even required. You can pretty easily get through by grabbing draws, stepping on bolts, and clipping in direct with a draw. Just like dogging up a sport climb. There still is a bolt sticking comically far out of the rock, but it still seems to hold weight, and is backed up by another bolt just a few feet below. Nov 17, 2015
Ryan Arnold
  5.10c/d A0
Ryan Arnold  
  5.10c/d A0
Pitch 1 and 2: 5.9 and 5.7. 200 feet without any bolts. Only having 6 cams resulted in a lot of runout climbing!
Pitch 3: Well protected 10b, one or two small cam placements.
Pitch 4: Well protected 10b/c, all bolts.
Pitch 5/6: Well protected 5.9 and 10a, bolts, one or two cams.
Pitch 7/8: Easy aid, monkey from bolt to bolt. Move out of aid with a slightly tricky hand jam to intermediate anchors. Fun 10b climbing past good bolts to a 5.9 crack with small cams or nuts.
Pitch 9: Fun, well protected 10c or 10d on good bolts, no gear.

Rap: Single 70. We stopped at the intermediate anchor after the aid pitch to prevent a tricky rightward pendulum rap. The final rap anchor is off to the left, by the pillar, hard to see from above. Jan 25, 2016
Fun route. We rapped. Climbed on 21Feb16.

Main note: one bolt on aid pitch was sticking an inch out of the wall. Luckily there's a good spot for a .3 right there, otherwise it would have been a difficult reach to the next bolt. So basically turned an A0 into a super easy C1 for half a second. My follower used the sticking out bolt, just for fun, with no problems.

We strung together pitches 5/6 and 7(aid)/8 pretty easily. Transitioning from aid to climbing between 7 and 8 was difficult. Pitches 8 and 9 were very hard and not at all the same kind of climbing as the rest of the route. Softer rock, a bit sugary, and either hollow or nonexistent holds. In my mind, it wasn't as fun. I wouldn't judge anyone for climbing up to the aid pitch and then rapping. Mar 8, 2016
Eli .
Eli .   GMC3500
Can anyone comment about freeing the bolt ladder? I've heard 12a, I've heard 12c. What's the story?

Eli Feb 9, 2017
Kneebar   SF, CA
the bolt sticking out on the aid pitch is gone. Nov 18, 2017
Josh Noe
Las Vegas, NV
Josh Noe   Las Vegas, NV
The missing bolt on the bolt ladder turned out to be no problem for us. There's a perfect BD 0.5 cam placement right next to it. Dec 26, 2017
Rob P.
Twin Cities
Rob P.   Twin Cities
I figured I’d chime in with my take on free climbing the bolt ladder pitch for those interested. I was able to send it this spring on my second time up the route. I feel 12+/13- is appropriate. It basically breaks down into 2 hard boulder problems. First one is shortly off the belay involving some hard underclinging/thumbderclinging and highstepping in the slab section before the missing bolt. At the missing bolt section there’s a long move off a hand jam to the second crux which is a tensiony lie back followed by some fun heelhookery that leads into some easier traversing to the anchor. I’d give the slab section V5/6 and the heel hook/tension section V6/7? Really fun climbing that feels hard near the end of the day! Nov 21, 2018
Boulder, CO
michalm   Boulder, CO
Nice work, Rob! I was able to free to a move or two before the handjam and from the handjam, but I couldn't figure out the slab standup move. There was a standup move that I couldn't finish because I couldn't find a way to use my right foot. I agree the lieback, heel-hook section feels V6ish or so. For me, the standup move felt harder, and the rock quality there is very sandy, hollow, and shitty for a couple moves.

The next party might want to bring an adjustable wrench or a 9/16" wrench. Virtually every bolt on the aid pitch and perhaps some bolts on the next pitch have loose studs that I was only able to hand tighten!

Finally, many of the pitches protect well with a single rack, some offset nuts, offset brass, and offset small cams. Many of the bolts on most pitches of the route are reasonably close to very good natural gear placements and can be avoided safely if you are so inclined. Jan 1, 2019