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Elevation: 4,350 ft 1,326 m
GPS: 36.10166, -115.48872
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 635,054 total · 2,507/month
Shared By: Mike Morley on Feb 16, 2004
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen
Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is one of the most beautiful canyons in Red Rock. The ultra-classic Solar Slab is near the mouth of the canyon. This is actually a huge buttress facing generally south or southeast. On the upstream side of the buttress is the Black Orpheus Amphitheater, lying to the west of the slab.

The south side of the canyon mouth is dominated by the Cactus Flower Tower and its associated Blood Wall and Oakey Buttress.

Further upstream, on the north side of the canyon, one finds the sweeping Painted Bowl, Eagle Wall, and Celebration Wall. In this area are local classics such as Rainbow Buttress and Levitation 29. The beautiful slabs in the upper part of the canyon are worth the hike (or you can pass them on the descent from the summit area of Rainbow Mountain). Oak Creek's southern branches are an area of complex topography and few recorded climbs.

Getting There Suggest change

To get to the Oak Creek parking lot, take the scenic loop road 12.1 miles as measured from the turnoff from highway 159. Turn right on to a dirt road, follow this 0.8 miles west to the parking lot. This dirt road is passable by 2WD vehicles.

An alternative approach avoids the scenic loop. Park on Highway 159 about a half mile south of the exit gate from the scenic loop road. A hikers' gate in the barbed wire fence leads to a trail that heads straight west into Oak Creek Canyon. The trail stays to the north of the Oak Creek wash and joins up with the main trail just before reaching the mouth of the canyon.

115 Total Climbs

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Location: (12) Oak Creek Canyon Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Oak Creek Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 966
Solar Slab
Trad 9 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 987
Johnny Vegas
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 338
Beulah's Book
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 407
Black Orpheus
Trad 8 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A0+
 201
Eagle Dance
Trad, Aid 11 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 108
Red Zinger
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 46
The Warrior
Trad 7 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 8
Tickled Pink
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 8
Beelzebub
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 808
Levitation 29
Trad 9 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 14
Marijuana
Trad 5 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
Put Up Your Dukes
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 4
Venipuncture
Trad
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 10
Tuscarora
Trad 4 pitches
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 4
The Main Vein
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Solar Slab Solar Slab - Upper Tier
 966
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 9 pitches
Johnny Vegas Solar Slab - Lower Tier
 987
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
Beulah's Book Solar Slab - Lower Tier
 338
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Black Orpheus Black Orpheus Amphith…
 407
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 8 pitches
Eagle Dance Eagle Wall
 201
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A0+ Trad, Aid 11 pitches
Red Zinger Friar & Byrd Pinnacle
 108
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
The Warrior Cactus Flower T… > Cactus Flower Tower S…
 46
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 7 pitches
Tickled Pink Rainbow Mtn - E Face
 8
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Beelzebub Rainbow Mtn - E Face
 8
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Levitation 29 Eagle Wall
 808
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 9 pitches
Marijuana Black Orpheus Amphith…
 14
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 5 pitches
Put Up Your Dukes S Fork - Oak Creek > Lost World
 5
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Venipuncture Cactus Flower T… > Blood Wall
 4
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
Tuscarora Black Orpheus Amphith…
 10
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad 4 pitches
The Main Vein Cactus Flower T… > Blood Wall
 4
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Oak Creek Canyon »

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