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Areas in Oak Creek Canyon

Black Orpheus Amphitheater 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Eagle Wall 7 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 7
Friar and Byrd Pinnacle, The 15 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Oak Creek Canyon Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Rainbow Mountain - East Face 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Silly Patch Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Solar Slab - Lower Tier 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 11
Solar Slab - Upper Tier 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
South Fork - Oak Creek 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Upper Oak Creek Canyon 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Upper Painted Bowl 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Description

This is one of the most beautiful canyons in Red Rock. The ultra-classic Solar Slab is near the mouth of the canyon. This is actually a huge buttress facing generally south or southeast. On the upstream side of the buttress is the Black Orpheus Amphitheater, lying to the west of the slab.

The south side of the canyon mouth is dominated by the Cactus Flower Tower and its associated Blood Wall and Oakey Buttress.

Further upstream, on the north side of the canyon, one finds the sweeping Painted Bowl, Eagle Wall, and Celebration Wall. In this area are local classics such as Rainbow Buttress and Levitation 29. The beautiful slabs in the upper part of the canyon are worth the hike (or you can pass them on the descent from the summit area of Rainbow Mountain). Oak Creek's southern branches are an area of complex topography and few recorded climbs.
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Getting There

To get to the Oak Creek parking lot, take the scenic loop road 12.1 miles as measured from the turnoff from highway 159. Turn right on to a dirt road, follow this 0.8 miles west to the parking lot. This dirt road is passable by 2WD vehicles.

An alternative approach avoids the scenic loop. Park on Highway 159 about a half mile south of the exit gate from the scenic loop road. A hikers' gate in the barbed wire fence leads to a trail that heads straight west into Oak Creek Canyon. The trail stays to the north of the Oak Creek wash and joins up with the main trail just before reaching the mouth of the canyon.

76 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Oak Creek Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Solar Slab
Trad 9 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Johnny Vegas
Trad 4 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rainbow Buttress
Trad 8 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Beulah's Book
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sundog
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sunflower
Trad 6 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
The Friar
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arch Enemy
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Black Orpheus
Trad 8 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Solar Flare
Trad 5 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A0+
Eagle Dance
Trad, Sport, Aid 11 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Red Zinger
Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
The Secret World of Arrietty
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Levitation 29
Trad, Sport 9 pitches
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
The Black Widow
Trad 4 pitches
Solar Slab Solar Slab - Upper Tier 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 9 pitches
Johnny Vegas Solar Slab - Lower Tier 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
Rainbow Buttress Eagle Wall 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 8 pitches
Beulah's Book Solar Slab - Lower Tier 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Sundog Solar Slab - Upper Tier 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Sunflower Solar Slab - Upper Tier 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 6 pitches
The Friar Friar and Byrd Pinnacle 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Arch Enemy Solar Slab - Upper Tier 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Black Orpheus Black Orpheus Amphitheater 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 8 pitches
Solar Flare Solar Slab - Lower Tier 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 5 pitches
Eagle Dance Eagle Wall 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A0+ Trad, Sport, Aid 11 pitches
Red Zinger Friar and Byrd Pinnacle 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
The Secret World of Arrietty Black Orpheus Amphitheater 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Levitation 29 Eagle Wall 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport 9 pitches
The Black Widow Black Orpheus Amphitheater 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Oak Creek Canyon »

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