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Routes in Eagle Wall
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Dances with Beagles T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Eagle Dance T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A0+ |
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Kaleidoscope Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Levitation 29 T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mountain Beast T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Rainbow Buttress T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ringtail T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 960 ft (291 m), 8 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Joanne Urioste and Mike Moreo, Feb 1997 |
| Page Views: | 4,720 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Nov 1, 2004 · Updates |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Mountain Beast is a fine route for those who have done the far more classic routes on the Eagle Wall. A few pitches are outstanding, but others are very lackluster.
Begin at the far upper right margin of the Eagle Wall, approximately 150' right of Levitation (5.11), and 30' left of the saddle that drops down to the East. Belay from a nice flat area - you should be able to spot the anchors at the end of the first pitch in a heart-shaped alcove.
P1: Follow a left-leaning crack system to a ledge, then up a short corner with a hand crack to the bolted belay. 5.9.
P2: Step out of the alcove to the right, head up past a few bolts, then trend straight left past three more bolts and the crux - a very thin 15' or so section of climbing. Belay in another alcove. A good pitch. 5.11.
P3: Face climb up and up and up. Belay on a ledge in the large left-facing, right-leaning corner/ramp system. 5.6-8?
P4: Climb up a corner then leave the corner and traverse left and up slightly to a two-bolt anchor. 5.9.
P5: Face climb up past 9 bolts and a few wire placements to a two-bolt anchor and semi-hanging belay stance. Many of the holds are fragile on this pitch and a delicate touch helps. 5.10.
P6: Climb up the beautiful face past two bolts and then up a dead-vertical black wall, slotting bomber wires in amazing incut pods. The best pitch on the climb - 5.9+. Belay at a two bolt anchor.
P7: Wander up and slightly right on lower angle terrain (somewhat more tricky to protect), eventually moving right to belay on a flat ledge at a large tree. 5.6-8?
P8: Continue up the extremely contrived white slab past seven or so bolts (pretend not to see the much more beautiful dihedral to your right) to a two-bolt belay just below the summit.
Many of the pitches can be linked. We did it in 5.
Walk off or rap Levitation with two ropes. With some slings around the tree, it may be possible to rap Mountain Beast with two ropes.
Begin at the far upper right margin of the Eagle Wall, approximately 150' right of Levitation (5.11), and 30' left of the saddle that drops down to the East. Belay from a nice flat area - you should be able to spot the anchors at the end of the first pitch in a heart-shaped alcove.
P1: Follow a left-leaning crack system to a ledge, then up a short corner with a hand crack to the bolted belay. 5.9.
P2: Step out of the alcove to the right, head up past a few bolts, then trend straight left past three more bolts and the crux - a very thin 15' or so section of climbing. Belay in another alcove. A good pitch. 5.11.
P3: Face climb up and up and up. Belay on a ledge in the large left-facing, right-leaning corner/ramp system. 5.6-8?
P4: Climb up a corner then leave the corner and traverse left and up slightly to a two-bolt anchor. 5.9.
P5: Face climb up past 9 bolts and a few wire placements to a two-bolt anchor and semi-hanging belay stance. Many of the holds are fragile on this pitch and a delicate touch helps. 5.10.
P6: Climb up the beautiful face past two bolts and then up a dead-vertical black wall, slotting bomber wires in amazing incut pods. The best pitch on the climb - 5.9+. Belay at a two bolt anchor.
P7: Wander up and slightly right on lower angle terrain (somewhat more tricky to protect), eventually moving right to belay on a flat ledge at a large tree. 5.6-8?
P8: Continue up the extremely contrived white slab past seven or so bolts (pretend not to see the much more beautiful dihedral to your right) to a two-bolt belay just below the summit.
Many of the pitches can be linked. We did it in 5.
Walk off or rap Levitation with two ropes. With some slings around the tree, it may be possible to rap Mountain Beast with two ropes.
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