Avg: 2.3 from 3 votes
Routes in Eagle Wall
|Dances with Beagles T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R|
|Eagle Dance T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A0+|
|Kaleidoscope Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Levitation 29 T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Mountain Beast T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Rainbow Buttress T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Ringtail T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 500 ft, 5 pitches|
|Page Views:||1,174 total, 12/month|
|Shared By:||tallmark515 on Nov 30, 2009|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionP1. Start out on the left side buttress at the base of the route and work your way to the bolted anchor under the roof. Climbing can range from 5.6-5.9 depending on what part of the buttress you take to the anchor.
P2. Crux pitch - .10d. Technical and balancy traverse past 6-8 closely spaced bolts. Good crimps for hands, small flake edges for feet and a few smears on varnished depressions. Hardest move for me was between last bolt and the bolted anchor.
P3. Book says that this pitch is .10a, but it didn't feel any harder than 5.9. Crux is supposed to be off the anchor and protected with two bolts. Remainder of pitch is easy and ends at another bolted anchor.
P4. 5.8 boring and uneventful, just climb until you get to the bolted anchor.
P5. .10a (book calls it 5.9) Second crux pitch that follows the awkward dihedral between the pillar and the main wall. Stay inside the corner and work your feet up high to an awkward stem or jam the dihedral corner straight in. Seek out good jams and eventual good jugs. Top out on the pillar and belay/rappel from sunbleached slings slung around big blocks.
Rappel route with one 70m rope or two 60's. If simulrappeling, be careful when lowering from the top of p2, the anchors will be just out of reach and recessed (under the roof). Use prussiks.
LocationJoins Rainbow Buttress route which climbs the right side of the huge Black Tower (a few hundred feet up the hill and to the right of Levitation 29). Also the first four pitches are the same as Mountain Beast.
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