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Routes in Panty Wall

Black Lace S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boxer Rebellion S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brief Encounter S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Butt Floss TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Butt Floss Left TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Cover My Buttress T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Eat My Shorts T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Edible Panties T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Granny Panties TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Last Panty, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Office Manager T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Office Party S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Panty Line T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Panty Mime S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Panty Prow S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Panty Raid T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sacred Undergarment Squeeze Job S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Silk Panties S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thong T V-easy 3 R
Tighty Whities TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Totally Clips S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Viagra Falls S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Victoria's Secret TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wedgie S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Elevation: 4,118 ft
GPS: 36.15, -115.43 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 66,469 total, 396/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Feb 20, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

Description

This area is popular because it has a host of moderates. To locate the Panty Wall look for the reddish wall with a large swath of varnish in the shape of black panties. The pine tree that used to be a landmark is no longer there.

All the routes on the Panty Wall are split between three separate walls. The first four climbs are on the separate formation that is uphill and to the left. The next routes are on the main wall and continue out the ramp to the right. The next three routes are on a blocky wall just past the last route.

[Reprinted with permission from Jed Botsford, Climbing Ranger - RRCNCA].

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Getting There

To get to the Panty Wall, follow the trail down to the rock outcropping and then turn left (west) and follow the trial down across the wash and up a hill. When you reach the top of the hill continue to follow the trail until you can drop into the wash and climb the slickrock slabs up to the wall.

24 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Panty Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Weather Averages

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Antoine Horness
Tucson, AZ
Antoine Horness   Tucson, AZ
My wife and I had a good time on our last day of a week of climbing. The routes were well protected and fun. We had shade until 10:30 am. Oct 25, 2014
Eric-D
Las Vegas, nv
Eric-D   Las Vegas, nv
I don't know if this is useful to anyone. I may try to post gps tracks to the walls as I can.

maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=… Mar 12, 2011
smassey
CO
smassey   CO
I guide there quite a bit as well, and often anchor my clients, since some of them are also uncomfortable with their positioning on that ledge. A #3 C4 is more than adequate to anchor a belayer to on the three right-hand routes. If that does not feel adequate, more gear can be had, or the use of a stick-clip recommended. As Mr. Burt stated, this is not an area that needs retro-belayer-anchors. Nov 10, 2010
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
I should actually comment that if you have a rack with you, there's plenty of opportunity to anchor your belayer along the sloping part of the ledge, but i also agree with the other postersin that its unlikely any fall off the ledge would ever actually occur.

More to the point, Panty Wall is full of people trying to kill themselves- seriously, if you ever want to go somewhere where people do not know what they are doing and are completely unaware of their situation, panty wall is where its at. And to my knowledge there has never been anyone who has fallen off that ledge. Jul 30, 2010
Chris, honestly you should really consider giving up climbing if the base of the panty wall has you on edge. This is what causes excessive bolting and reto bolting of our routes. Chris there is plenty of places to place gear along the base or boulder up and clip the first bolt if you are so inclined to jump off a big ledge. But to call off the day because an inability to think is why a lot of us locals are fighting a losing battle with bolts popping up all over the place on some of our most coveted and prized routes.

Great wall, low key, can be busy, I guide there often. Have fun and use your head all will be good. Jul 30, 2010
Chris D
the couch
Chris D   the couch
We climbed most of the bolted routes here the other day and the area is a lot of fun, sunny, warm, and just a short walk from the parking area.

Not to be a contrarian, but I honestly can't imagine being concerned about anchoring your belayer here, at least for the sport routes. You'd have to be drunk to fall off the belay ledge, and there's only one route where the bolt is high enough to be concerned, and that's an easy start for anyone who can climb 5.8. Frankly, I was surprised to see people stick-clipping the first bolts here, but then I don't do a lot of sport climbing.

We *did* see another group's toprope anchor half-fail on a fall on one of the trad routes, which was very scary, but not as scary as watching them continue to climb on the extended anchor without inspecting it! Some people's kids... Dec 27, 2009
I visited Panty Wall on 9/27/2009.

Mike - yes, I concur that the tree is no longer standing. Climbers should *not* look for the tree when trying to find the route.

Tyson - you rock for posting the GPS coordinates and Google map. I wish we had these for all routes in Red Rock (many of these areas are difficult to locate).

As for Panty Wall itself, call me paranoid, but I decided to abort my climbs. The routes do look good, but I absolutely refuse to climb an area where my belayer is at risk of slipping or falling ... with no option of anchoring in. The ramp is downward and outward sloping, and made of slick sandstone. If you take a wrong step, you can easily fall off of the ramp and into a 15-20 foot crevace below (or up to 30' if you climb the right-most routes). There are no bolts in which to clip your belayer, and there is NOWHERE to place a cam, nut, sling, etc., at the base of the routes. Basically, your belayer's anchor point becomes the first bolt on the route, which can be between 8-12 feet off of the deck. Sep 28, 2009
Tyson Anderson
SLC, UT
Tyson Anderson   SLC, UT
Exact crag location:
36.149842, -115.429970

maps.google.com/maps?f=q&so… Apr 29, 2009
Malcolm Daly
Boulder, CO
Malcolm Daly   Boulder, CO
I looks like the pine tree at the base of the Panty Wall blew down on Christmas day, 2008.

RIP Dec 28, 2008
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
A great place to knock out a lot of pitches. Pretty easy to log a dozen routes in a half day. A good choice in winter months. Dec 31, 2006
Claire  
The climbs were great for beginning lead climbers. Although they were all pretty similar in structure, they were fun to do. I went shortly before and after the Rendezvous and it wasn't too packed, but there were enough people to where the rests between climbs got a little long. All of the routes definitely are well protected Apr 9, 2006
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
This wall is nice, and has a lot of moderate well protected lines. It's a nice place for a novice sport leader to do some 8's, which is probably why it is so crowded. Still, it is worth a visit and if you can hit it on a weekday or moderate weather day there might not be a line for one of the more obscure lines there... The harder lines are not typically crowded, but don't expect to be alone. Feb 20, 2004

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