Ten Sleep Canyon Climbing

what is the weather like in mid may? Should I wait? Thanks for any info. May 6, 2006

The Ten Broek RV Park in the town of Ten Sleep offers sybaritic climbers weary of USFS campgrounds tent sites, communal bathrooms and showers, a laundry room, and clean, "primitive" cabins equipped with air-conditioners and electricity. The Park is a short block's walk from the town's bars, cafe, espresso joint, and ice cream parlor -- and a 10-30 minute drive from the Canyon's climbing areas. Tent sites are $19/day; cabins start at $36/day. Call ahead for more information and reservations. (Thanks to Bryson Slothower for the tip.) Aug 26, 2006

The Book for the area is good. The only problem is that routes are going in so fast that there is a new book out each year. I wish that Huey would publish just the additional routes as a companion. I still recommend that you buy the book and head out to Ten Sleep if you have not been. Unless of course you don't like sport climbing because it is not pure enough for you, or whatever. If you don't like clipping bolts then you will hate Ten Sleep as much as you hate Shelf, Lander, Rifle, Utah Hills, Last Chance Canyon, and all of the other places where protection has been given higher importance than Style. May 3, 2007

Bill,

Any advice on where to find the guidebook? Jun 4, 2007

The guidebook can be purchased in Tensleep at the general store (Dirty Sally's). I remember that there was some sort of issue with the owner not taking credit cards so plan on paying with cash ~$20 if I remember correctly. I also believe that the Wildernessexchange in Denver will have it. If you are coming up through Denver that is probably your best bet.

From Huey's website:

"Pick up a copy of the Tensleep Guide at DIRTY SALLY'S Ice Cream shop in Tensleep, The Wild Iris Mountain Store in downtown Lander, or Neptune Mountaineering in Boulder."

I'm still Pretty sure that the Wildy Sex Change has it too. Jun 13, 2007

Thanks Bill! I've heard refences to free camping in the area. Where is that located? Jun 14, 2007

Just returned from Ten Sleep and although the climbing was sweet, finding the free camping took some time. The Forest Service campsites down canyon are a crime. Charging people to be stacked one on top of another, and adjacent to the highway. We "found" after 2-3 trips up the old highway very few spots to camp. We did find a sweet place that about 4-5 parties can camp in. There was not much to be had on the old highway. If there is "loads" of free camping on forest service land we didn't find it.
Bring everything you need for wilderness camping cause the town of Ten Sleep had very little in the way of provisions.
Awesome place >>>> Aug 15, 2007

Are Sinks and Tensleep at about the same elevation? Are their seasons similar? I'm trying to decide on one fo the two.

Never been to Tensleep. I saw the guide a couple of years ago and that alone got me stoked to check it out. I love pocketed limestone! Aug 20, 2007

there is much more elevation difference from crag to crag in ten sleep, thus, the season is nearly year-round.
if you like steep angles or routes above 5.12, ten sleep does not compare to the sinks. Sep 4, 2007

There is an ice climb in Ten Sleep canyon that I've done. It's pretty obvious from the road. Feb 12, 2008

I have to drive past there the weekend of June 6th, I was wondering, to make the other trip worth it, if anyone would be interested in climbing. I have never been to the area. I could be there on the 5th or the 8th for the day.
Tina May 27, 2008

GO TO TENSLEEP JULY 4th WEEKEND, my wife and I have been going the last 4 years. Its way cooler (temps) than Iris and Sinks and has WAY, WAY more routes. Its Iris plus Sinks times 10. And Iris is WAY crowded for their festival.

The informal festival kind of dissolved for awhile but I hear its coming back big this year. Rodeo, street dance, and alot of new routes. Youll find a good number of climbers to hang out with that week, but will never find a crag thats crowded, there's just too much rock.

Camping in Tensleep is free on the old road. Routes in shade all day, the upper canyon goes in at 1pm. The Lower Canyon is good for morning. You couldnt climb all the routes there is you stayed all summer.

Guidebook can be found at the Ice Cream shop in Tensleep or online, search google for Tensleep climbing guide. I hear there are 700 routes there now. Is this true? There must be at least 500 from what Ive seen. Jun 2, 2008

Hey grappler, the 4th sounds great, but unfortunately I have no control over this weekend. A friend in Montana is getting married on Saturday so I am driving up there for the wedding. I just figured that if I was going to drive all that way, I would try to get some climbing in while there. But thanks for the info.
Tina Jun 2, 2008

Any day in Ten Sleep is good, just be sure to go!!! Early june will be best in lower canyon. Look for Charlie Kardaleff he bolted all the best 10s and 11s down there! Jun 2, 2008

Thought you all planning on visiting Ten Sleep might be interested in this:

blog.myspace.com/index.cfm?…

I almost expect to see Mike pissing on the bases of all the routes. Bizarre... Jun 4, 2008

Hey Matt.
I saw this post too (by the way this is Tina from inner strength). I am heading there alone and am a little concerned about this guy, but I don't like the idea of not going either. But worst case scenario, things are weird and I pack it in and head home early. Hope all is well.
Tina Jun 4, 2008

Here's an email being circulated about the situation. The sheriff and FS law enforcement are watching this asshole very closely but everyone can help by expressing their concerns to the authorities as listed below.

> Some of you climb in Tensleep Canyon (WYO) and some of you dont.
>
> My hope is that if you love climbing or you know anyone at all who climbs in Ten Sleep that you will help us with a simple email to the local authorities.
>
> Mike Decker, a local who has created problems in the past is making threats against visitors to the canyon. While I dont believe that he will likely hurt anyone that he doesnt know, there is a VERY high likelihood that he will hurt one of the 6 main bolters in the canyon.
>
> Please take 1 minute and send a brief message that links his myspace posting (his "declaration of war") : blog.myspace.com/index.cfm?…
>
> And tell the authorities (following addresses are the police and sheriff) wcsdept@rtconnect.net, wcso201@rtconnect.net, worlpd@rtconnect.net, copwpd@rtconnect.net
> that you are concerned about the threat of violence and youd like them to act BEFORE something happens, not AFTER. That without action you will have a hard time visiting this summer.
>
> In 2006 Mike attacked two bolters that he knew, and was charged with battery. That summer he also chopped a dozen routes. Lets get a jump on this situation and stop it before it starts again. The best way to fight back is to not be afraid. COME IN LARGE NUMBERS AND ENJOY TEH CANYON.
>
> 500+ routes now, and free camping!
>
> This summer we are celebrating the 10th Annual (and very informal) Ten Sleep Climbing Festival over the 4th of July weekend (rodeo, street dance, and new routes)
>
> 100 emails coming in to the police department WILL make something happen.
> If you think of anyone else please send this on to them.
>
> Many Thanks.
> Jun 4, 2008

From the sheriffs office...

This matter can be dealt with before tragedy befalls anyone. I would need you to complete and file a formal affidavit as to the threats against you. This can be accomplished by coming to Worland, Wyoming and completing the affidavit first hand or I can forward you a statement form that you can fill out, have notarized and return the original back to me. At that time we can forward this information to the Washakie County Attorney. I have also spoken with Cindy Gradin, U.S. Forest Service Law Enforcement Officer out of Sheridan, Wyoming and advised her of this issue as well. She can be contacted at cgradin@fs.fed.us. We are willing to help you with this issue, but you are going to have to help us document these problems and make the County Attorney aware of them so some sort of action can be taken.

Thank You

Steven R. Rakness

Sheriff, Washakie County, Wyoming Jun 4, 2008

I still plan on going. Does anyone know of anyone I could hook up with there to climb with? I will be traveling alone. I had hoped to meet someone there or in town, but if I knew someone ahead of time that might be better.


Tina Jun 4, 2008

Thanks, powerandrubber. This letter was posted to MP.com's feedback also (I should have put up the whole email). It's good to see that there is a response from the sheriff's. Has anybody followed up on this?

Tina, we are fairly certain we will be there that weekend (along with some others). I wouldn't worry too much about this guy as there will probably be a fair number of people there. Jun 9, 2008

For what it's worth. I did contact Mike. I didn't know what to expect, but I met up with him and another friend and climbed with him both Sunday and Monday. FYI, lead my first 12a, awesome! He is a great guy and I understand his beef and everything seems to have been blown way out of proportion. He's not crazy (well no more than I am)or violent. And he has put in a lot of work and money into that area. I will definitely be climbing with him again. And the area.. is absolutely beautiful! Jun 10, 2008

I heard a rumor that there is a 2008 ten sleep guide available. Does anyone know if this is true or not? I am planning on being in the area for the 4th of July festivities and would like to have the most recent guide.

Thanks Jun 19, 2008

We know biting flies can be somewhat of a neusance in this area from time to time. Anyone have recent information about biting flies for this time of year? Jun 28, 2008

This is off topic, sorry. But we want to go this summer with our kids. How are the bases of the cliffs and approaches? Kid friendly? Jun 29, 2008

Does anyone know if a 50M rope would be adequate for the area? I am planning a trip here in a week. Unfortunately the only rope i have access to is a 50M. Thanks for the info.
Climb hard.
J Jun 30, 2008

India, some friends of ours were concerned about this also, so they called up there. The consensus was that they were not an issue right now.

Krista, we have a child and we are going up with another family this weekend; I will let you know what I think. Jul 2, 2008

Hey guys! A few of my friends and I are gonna visit the canyon this weekend. Any recommendations on which areas we should visit? Any info would be greatly appreciated! Thanks Jul 24, 2008

apparantly a post about the condition of his rack.
Not good :)

I wont be leaving any draw behind next week.
WEBE.

Mondo eh?
Any other must do's?? i'd like to see some flashy lines in the upper 12's and 13s.
Love the look of that stone!
It is gonna rock! Aug 27, 2008

yeah sorry i know its not really a condition report, but i posted it like that for two reasons: 1) it will automatically delete itself and 2) it puts itself at the top.

i guess ill take it down and buy some new draws. ten sleep is the bomb cant wait til next summer! Sep 10, 2008

Strangly enough when i was there last week. There were fixed draws everywhere up in FCR and superratic.
I wonder why yours came up missing with all that? there was no one around for 4 days. one other party that we had chatted with.
anyways.

sick sick sick.
the above mentioned walls are the shizz.
two thumbs up for the ten sleep saloon. Sep 10, 2008

yeah im pretty sure it was a innocent misstake. there were 3 other routes with draws on them (slavery wall) and i was able to find out that there were 8 kids from the univ. of wyoming and that they had been gangbanging that route. 4 of them went down to the parking lot earlier than the others and im thinking maybe the 4 remaining thought they (the draws) belonged to someone in the 4 that went down. seems weird that theyd just steal my draws and not get the others. who knows? it doesnt even begin to damper my feelings about ten sleep. this was my second trip there both being a month long and i plan on being back next summer cause it just doesnt get much better than this! Sep 21, 2008

So...we're planning on heading out to Ten Sleep over the 4th of July weekend (can't wait), but nary a guidebook is to be found. I'm sure I'll be able to find one once I get into town, but I was hoping to have something to peruse before we show up. I've called every place I've heard of that carries Huey's guide, hoping to get one shipped to me in Atlanta, but they are all out and don't know when they'll be getting new stock.

Any info appreciated...

Thanks,
Mike Mar 4, 2009

Would Tensleep warrant a month long stay? How hard would it be to find partners? I'd like to avoid the crowds of Lander or Rifle, yet still climb quality routes. So is Tensleep worth it? Apr 16, 2009

Negative. Tensleep good for ten sleeps only! Duh! ;-) Apr 16, 2009

NEW Ten Sleep 6th edition guide book out JUNE 10!

you can get it fromaaronhuey.com

or Dirty Sally's and the stagecoach shop in Tensleep. Also Wild Iris in Lander.

see you in July! May 4, 2009

Anyone have experience bringing dogs to Tensleep? All good? No good? Jun 2, 2009

Aaron - that's awesome about the new guidebook! Thanks for all the hard work...can't wait to check it out.

Given the timing of our trip, we prob won't have a chance to get the guide before heading out there. That said, can anyone recommend a good area for our first day on the rock? Something relatively easy to get to with a wide range of difficulty (5.9 to low 5.12). We're from the south, so we can deal with some heat (if that makes a difference in crag recommendation).

Thanks!
Mike Jun 10, 2009

Heat? I drove through the canyon last Friday and the temperature was about 35-45 degrees F! This was unusually cold, though. Jun 10, 2009

Mike,

Go to the main Mondo Beyondo area or Home Alone (right by the road). You won't have to worry about heat at Tensleep, all the westerners are wimps when it comes to that. If the 500 sweet routes at Tensleep aren't enough, or if your fingers get worked by the sharp dolomite, head to Spearfish Canyon in SD, it's only a couple of hours away and there are hundreds more routes that seem to be less sharp. Enjoy!! Jun 12, 2009

Tzilla - thanks, we'll check those areas out. As for Spearfish, yeah, we're checking it out for a few days en route to Ten Sleep (we're flying into Rapid City). Based on your warning about the sharp holds, maybe we should have planned our destinations in reverse order. Then again, I hear Ten Sleep is a good time over the July 4th weekend...can't wait.

Mike Jun 16, 2009

Anybody have any info on the overhang that forms the right wall of a dihedral across the canyon from Home Alone? There's a 10 bolt 10+ all by its lonesome, and its damn good!

I got the beta. Its a Decker route, but since it doesn't really have any good parking, is all by its lonesome, and incredibly obvious, it might be worthwhile to leave it be until developing fills in around it. Jul 6, 2009

A recent visit confirms that this is now UNQUESTIONABLY the premier limestone area in the state! I love Wild Iris and Sinks, but as good as those places are, Ten Sleep is bigger and better - by a long shot. Jul 7, 2009

Are wasps a problem in the pockets here during July/August? Sep 23, 2009

This past July I found lots of creatures living in the pockets, spiders, bugs, even a bat living in one of the pockets. Nothing prevented us from climbing though. Didn't come across any wasps. I've been to quite a few sport climbing crags in the US and this one blew me away. Sep 24, 2009

saw lots of wasp-like bees in the pockets in mid-september of this year, but none were aggressive. Just go there! Oct 3, 2009

So, I've never been out here, but I'm making a trip out to wild iris and Ten Sleep Canyon starting next week! i was wondering if anybody could tell me what "amenities" the forest service campground has to offer, i.e running water, bathrooms etc.

Thanks a lot!
Ben May 13, 2010

@Ben C - I would look into weather conditions. The road to Wild Iris might still be snow covered (Sinks Canyon is a close-by alternative). We have been getting snowed on a bunch lately. May 13, 2010

Thanks William! how does Ten Sleep compare snow wise at the moment to Iris? Do you know of any other areas that are snow free around the Lander area? Lots of questions i know, but i appreciate the answers! Thanks in advance!

Ben May 13, 2010

My girl and i are planning on being here for the July 4th festivities and we were wondering if it's worth bringing our dual sport motorcycles. Can anyone advise if this area is dual sport friendly (i.e.. rideable terrain, ethics, regulations)? May 19, 2010

hi everyone were heading to tensleep for memorial weekend this friday or saturday and will be there all weekend. please contact me if you are needing some climbing partners...we sure do! thanks... May 27, 2010

With the Ten Sleep Climbing Festival - is it very crowded? I don't want to participate, we just want to climb and don't want to stand in line for good areas. Jul 1, 2010

Hey Ten Sleep Climbers!

What is the mountain biking like out there? Is there single-track, or mostly riding on 4wd roads and dirt bike trails? Lots of it or limited?

Any beta is appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
paul Jul 12, 2010

Last time I was in Ten Sleep I had the best pizza I've ever had. Fellow climbers check it out! I think it was called Sacketts Fork wood fire pizza. It's a small place outside next to the bank. They don't sell beer but they let you bring your own. Just another reason Ten Sleep climbing is the bomb! Jul 26, 2010

Wow. Wow. Did I say Wow.

Talked about Mega-bolted and some ultra classic routes. Never did I feel scared, and I am a 100% wuss lead climber. The people that did this are creating a world class #1 top destination. I've been on the road 3 months and this blows away any other crag.

I heard from a local that Mike Snyder???? Some Mike guy did most the work on this canyon. The approach paths must of took YEARS. Talk about hard work. And bolting 500+ climbs with bolts every 6 feet. Wow. Must of been YEARS of work and THOUSAND of dollars.

A heartfelt THANK YOU to whomever. Send me this guys contact info, I want to thank him personally if I come back.

Wow! Aug 17, 2010

We stayed at the Ten Sleep RV park in town. Great for $18/night, WIFI. Good showers. Abouit 5 miles to crag. Aug 17, 2010

We stayed at the Ten Sleep RV park in town. Great for $18/night, WIFI. Good showers. Abouit 5 miles to crag. Aug 17, 2010

Don't forget the Godfather: Stan Price

Although Stan's routes often had about 20 feet between bolts... gnarler!

Stan put a group of us up in his house about a decade ago, drew us hand-drawn maps/topos, and then took us out for the best prime rib ever at the Worland VFW. Awesome! Aug 18, 2010

You can tell for sure when you're on a Stan Price route! Safe with a belayer you trust, a little spice keeps it interesting. I've noticed all the route developers have different styles of bolting and grading, they have all done a brilliant job of developing this absolute gem! Aug 18, 2010

Before your climbe or after come on into Deer Haven Lodge for a Great meal. Or stay with us and hike the trails from here to one of the many canyon walls. Oct 23, 2010

I'm considering coming up to Ten Sleep at the beginning of June and am just wondering what type of temperatures I can expect. thanks Mar 18, 2011

The 2011 Ten Sleep guidebook will be available sometime between April 15 and May 1 from stores all over the US. 250 pages, full color, waaaaay more photos and topos. Go to Ten Sleep's facebook page to see inside the book.

Advance orders can me made throughextremeangles.com Mar 18, 2011

For a place to stay in Ten Sleep, check out the Ten Sleep Log Cabin Motel. There are 7 rooms to choose from (some with kitchenettes) as well as a 3 bedroom guest house for rent. Website is wwww.tensleepmotel.com. Mar 28, 2011

i love guidebooks. my wife would say i have a guidebook "problem." i read them like novels. but the new Ten Sleep lies and propaganda aaron huey guidebook is the first i've ever seen that actually merits such treatment.

this guide surpasses every expectation one might have for a guide. it is a work of art. or comedy. or something. talk to Zach at extreme angles publishing and get a copy of this thing. then make your pilgramage. lord knows, now i'm really looking forward to mine.... May 5, 2011

Is there any word yet about the location of this year's non-fest? Looking forward to seeing everyone. Jun 24, 2011

Love rock climbing? Want to live next to one of the biggest and best climbing areas in the world, with literally hundreds of sport routes? The Ten Sleep Saloon and Restaurant (in ten Sleep, Wyoming) is for sale, Look us up on loopnet.com for details! Jun 28, 2011

Every season I hear more and more comments from traveling climbers about manufactured holds in Ten Sleep Canyon. It would seem that chipping and drilling are not just confined to the 5.14's either. The evolution of this crag makes me sad. It's become another Jack's Canyon and an embarassment to Wyoming. Nov 4, 2011

Talk to the Canadian Matt, he's the one with the chisel. Nov 4, 2011

If Ten Sleep is an embarassment then what does that make Sinks and Iris? Dec 21, 2011

Could you please advise me on the current conditions? I understand that it is really warm in the area. Also is there somewhere to camp in Mid May? May 6, 2012

As for camping this time of year. I think the old road is closed till mid or early June. The campground at the bottom might be open. Above the canyon it is all National forest "free" camping. Just find a dirt road and you will find camping anywhere. May 12, 2012

Canyon Collections (Gift shop across from the park and next to Sno Shavers Shave Ice) in Ten Sleep is now carring a small assortment of climbing equipement...Chalk, locally made chalk bags, quick draws, etc. Also,the only place in town carring "THE" climbing book, "Lies and Propaganda from Ten Sleep Canyon", by Aaron Huey, Also find healing balms/salves as well as natural bug sprays, sun screen, etc. (PS, ask about thenew area just recently opened for climbing just off WY state highway 436....)

You will also want to stop at Sno Shavers and have the BEST shave ice this side on anywhere...REAL shave ice, not a snowcone with koolaide!!Add Ice Cream to the bottom for a real taste treat. May 22, 2012

Canyon Collections (Gift shop across from the park and next to Sno Shavers Shave Ice) in Ten Sleep is now carring a small assortment of climbing equipement...Chalk, locally made chalk bags, quick draws, etc. Also,the only place in town carring "THE" climbing book, "Lies and Propaganda from Ten Sleep Canyon", by Aaron Huey, Also find healing balms/salves as well as natural bug sprays, sun screen, etc. (PS, ask about thenew area just recently opened for climbing just off WY state highway 436....)

You will also want to stop at Sno Shavers and have the BEST shave ice this side on anywhere...REAL shave ice, not a snowcone with koolaide!!Add Ice Cream to the bottom for a real taste treat. May 22, 2012

Just FYI, Ten Broek RV Park now charges $8 for a shower....!!! (um, i'm all about supporting the local economy but this is crazy!)
You can also drive to Worland and pay $5 at the campsite there. Or....drive an hour(ish) to Thermopolis on a rest day and get a free shower (YMCA style) at the hot springs there.....
Or just keep smelling like patchouli.......

Sno shavers is awessssssome! They also have jalapeño cheese filled soft pretzels, highly recommended. Jul 5, 2012

It's hard to explan the disappointment I feel. In an effort to let the climbing community know that we carry climbing supplies I hung a climbing harness up as a "sign". Never has anything ever been taken before, but someone must have felt they needed the harness worse than the store needed it....Judy, Canyon Collections, Ten Sleep. Jul 6, 2012

Jerks! I'm sorry to hear this, Judy. Jul 6, 2012

Judy, sorry for your theft. I hope things like this don't give climbers a bad name as this is not indicative of the climbing community as a whole ("one bad apple can spoil the bunch"). Thank you for your support of climbing in TenSleep and next time I'm in T.S. I'll be sure to stop by your store with my money. Jul 7, 2012

Hey all
Had an amazing 4th of July up at ten sleep this year! Did leave a pair of smith sunglasses on croakies hanging on a small pine underneath the El Shinto climbs. If anyone stumbled on them over 4th of July week I'd be happy to send you postage or a shipping label.
Many thanks to those who worked so hard to make ten sleep what it is! Jul 12, 2012

Thanks to David Silberman and Lauren Streifel, my faith has been restored. After having a climbing harness disappear from in front of my store(Canyon Collections), used as a way to let climbers know that I carry guide books, chalk and other small essentials for those in need, David and Lauren out of the kindness of their hearts brought me another harness AND encouraged someone else to donate a climbing rope that I could use to alert climbers that I carry climbing items they may need. All of you have been so supportive and wonderful. Thanks for coming to our community and thanks for visiting Canyon Collections as well as Sno Shavers (for the best shave ice ever!). Judy Aug 1, 2012

The only embarrassment to Ten Sleep Canyon is the guy who made this comment:

"Every season I hear more and more comments from traveling climbers about manufactured holds in Ten Sleep Canyon. It would seem that chipping and drilling are not just confined to the 5.14's either. The evolution of this crag makes me sad. It's become another Jack's Canyon and an embarassment to Wyoming."

He is the only one who resorted to chipping and drilling pockets to make his routes go. Then when he was unable to redpoint them, he pulled all the bolts out in some childish sissy fit, throwing the bolts into the woods and farming the hangers for other 'new' routes he also couldn't climb. All sad but true.

Also Mr. Wendling, there are plenty of manufactured holds in the pristine limestone of the crags around Lander as well. Oct 25, 2012

like a goddamn soap opera around here! Nov 3, 2012

was hoping to visit ten sleep this july as my friends are staying in san franciso and i was planning on travelling to sten sleep for some climbing, unfortunatly i do not have a partner to climb with. any info or available partners would be greatly appreciated :) Apr 22, 2013

I am heading to Ten Sleep in Mid May, Is the weather going to be warm and dry enough to enjoy the Limestone? Apr 23, 2013

Chris- lots of good climbing days in May, but also lots of good storms that stick around for a couple days or more at a time. Also, the air temperature can be quite cold still, and remember that the majority of cliffs at Tensleep dip into the shade ~1PM. Depending on the length of your trip, you will probably get some climbable days in there. But if I were you, I'd strongly consider heading to Lander, where Sinks Canyon provides sunny sport climbing on dolomite similar to Tensleep. Plus you can always jet over in a couple hours if the forecast looks conducive. Apr 24, 2013

I have young children who like to climb (4 and 8 years old). Are there any places you recommend with incredibly EASY routes so they have a little success and enjoy it? The canyon is beautiful, but my kids burn out rather quickly without mini victories. Also helpful are any locations where an easy top rope can be set for those occasions where I take my kids climbing, but do not have another adult to belay me and set something up on lead. Apr 28, 2013

Does anyone know about public transportation (or any transportation) from Casper to Ten Sleep? (I only need one-way transport.) I'm also looking for folks to climb with from middle to late June, as I will probably be without a partner for those dates: if you're interested, please let me know.

Thanks!

Mike May 10, 2013

I recall checking a long time ago, to see what busses ran to and from Casper. The short version is not a lot. You might be able to catch one from Casper to Buffalo, but that's still on the other side of Powder River Pass from where you want to go. Good luck! May 10, 2013

Hey Ten Sleep community, I plan on being out in Ten Sleep for a couple days towards the end of August. Just wondering what are the closest camping options to the climbs. Thanks! May 19, 2013

We are heading to ten sleep in July wondering if there is cell service at the primitive camping closest to the climbing? Jul 2, 2013

Hi,
I'm going to be in Ten Sleep July 10-12.
I'm looking for a partner to climb sport 10s and easy 11s.
Is camping easy to find in the area?
Thanks,
Leigh
Female, 44 Jul 3, 2013

KelNsteve wrote:We are heading to ten sleep in July wondering if there is cell service at the primitive camping closest to the climbing?

No one in our group had any cell service in the canyon until we got near the lower fish hatchery en route to the town of Ten Sleep. Jul 9, 2013

As a first time visitor last weekend from Colorado, good directions to the Ten Sleep free camping area were hard to find, approaching from the east. Here you go:

Powder River Pass is mile marker 55 on highway 16.
Willow Park Campground is mile marker 45 on highway 16.
Deer Haven Lodge is mile marker 44 on highway 16.

The old road, gateway to good and free Ten Sleep camping, is near mile marker 42 on highway 16. The old road is not signed and difficult to spot at night. A good landmark is the old road turnoff is about 100 feet beyond the sign that says "Runaway Truck Ramp 2 miles". If you get to the bridge over Ten Sleep Creek, mile marker 41.70, you have gone too far.

The better but more crowded free camping options are higher up canyon on the old road. Further down the canyon on the old road the camping isn't as good, but there are plenty of options.

Ten Sleep is awesome. Looking forward to my return trip! Wally Jul 9, 2013

To expand on Wally's comment, above, it should also be noted the "old road" runs parallel to the highway and you can access it from the top (higher up towards the top of the canyon) and the bottom (down at the bottom of the canyon). Jul 9, 2013

There is miles of free established camping up West Ten Sleep road. Turn right (north west) at Deer Haven cabins drive till you find one. There must be 30-40 free established spots,easy drive in,and some right next to the creek. Jul 11, 2013

Don't forget to visit Canyon Collectibles while in town. Judy sells the basics including homemade chalk bags! She closes at 5pm but is usually at the shaved ice shack till 7 or 8. Jul 15, 2013

This might be a crapshoot, but has anyone found a pair of very small Boostics near the base of Killer Karma about a week ago? Much, much appreciated. Aug 15, 2013

As of last week they were sitting on a boulder at the base of Killer Karma. Don't know if anyone has picked them up since then. Aug 15, 2013

Also, I think the name Ten Sleep comes from the fact that you have to sleep until 10 AM, then get up & go climbing, hence Ten Sleep....... Aug 15, 2013

Climbing in Ten Sleep and need a partner for 11+ to 5.12 climbing on the 24th through possibly the 30th of August 2013! 907 632-9341.

I am from Alaska, I have been climbing for 30 yrs mixed, trad, sport, alpine. Kind of all around climber. I am a family man with children. Iam focused and want to get at it. Tick list kind of guy. Need partner. Climb, climb, climb.

Grant Walker
907 632-9341 Aug 20, 2013

There isn't any cell service in the canyon at all. You pretty much need to drive into the town of Tensleep. Aug 29, 2013

Go to the Ten Sleep Brewery! And spread the word! Jun 17, 2014

+1 Ten Sleep Brewing Company!!

Great beer ( perhaps the best pale ale I have ever had), cool owner, superb location! Love it!
Also has showers and laundry if you are camping in the canyon!!!
Check it out! Jun 19, 2014

Is ten sleep dog friendly? Unable to find a dog sitter for the weekend and I've never been out there! Jul 3, 2014

For anyone in need, Saturday (Aug. 1, 2014) there were still a few guide books for Ten Sleep available in Buffalo at the Sports Shop. Aug 5, 2014

If you are coming from the south on I 25, Mountain Sports in Casper has TS guide books in stock. Aug 16, 2014

Added 2 new route to the water into wine area. Just to the right of water into wine is wine and cheese 5.10, 7 bolts to anchors. To the right of that is Beer and Brats 5.10, 7 bolts. Put up in July of 2014.
Also, put up a new route on Eldorado Coral Club. Just to the left of the 5.10d in the guide book. The name is notorious BCG's, it is mid 5.10. Put up July 2014
Great place to climb. Had a great summer in the Ten Sleep area. Aug 18, 2014

For anyone in possession of the 2009-2010 guide edition, Sacketts Fork pizza is closed indefinitely and has been for some time (boo...). Also, on a recent trip the Leigh Creek campground was open but not charging a fee. Is this because of the time of year? Sep 18, 2014

Hey y'all. My name is Braden, I'm 25 yrs old, I'll be in Ten Sleep either tomorrow or Monday. I'm on a two month road trip flying solo and am looking for partners. I'm an experienced sport climber from the RRG in Kentucky, and would love to get my ass kicked on your beautiful rock. Text me at 614-296-7098. Thanks! Sep 19, 2014

Anyone know where to pick up a copy of the guide book in the Ten Sleep/ Worland area? Just stopped by Dirty Sally's but it looks like they went out of business. Oct 1, 2014

Just returned from a Memorial Day weekend trip to Ten Sleep. Unfortunately, there were no guidebooks available in town in late May. Judy at Canyon Collections explained that the new 2015 version of the book should be available in town sometime in early June. We did find a circa 2005 guidebook in the Ten Sleep library, and the librarians were very kind and let us take pictures. That gave us a good start.

The main road through town is under major construction and is currently all gravel. The Saloon and the Crazy Woman Café seemed to be about the only places to eat in town. Everyone was very kind, and the Saloon food was delicious.

The old HWY 16 road is closed until June 15 "to protect wildlife," so most of the free camping on that side is not yet accessible.

For free camping, we found the Wigwam creek access area just a few miles out of town. As you're heading towards the canyon, it is a turn off to the left down a steep dirt road over a cattle guard gate. There are probably 15+ developed sites with room for more. It also has a vault toilet.

GPS Coordinates for Campground turn:

39 U.S. 16, Ten Sleep, WY 82442, USA
Latitude: 44.067735 | Longitude: -107.369191

Hope this helps someone. The Canyon is amazing! May 28, 2015

P.S.

Just emailed the tensleepcanyon@gmail.com address about ordering a new guidebook. Here's the response I got...

"The guide book is SOLD OUT! Sorry for the massive delay getting the new one out. Life is busy these days.

The next guide will be available (if all goes well) July 4th, 2015 in Ten Sleep, Wyoming. You will not find it in stores before August.

Book is sold/published throughextremeangles.com
Email Zach@extremeangles.com

Its worth the wait! Leather bible cover, many 3-D anaglyph images with 3-D glasses, 150 new routes and several new walls." Jun 6, 2015

Just fyi, 2nd St Cafe is closed!! Bummmmmer. But Dirty Sally's is under new ownership and they sell espresso and some of Megan's baked goods. The shaved ice shack is still in business so hit it up!!! Jun 29, 2015

Also bummed on the cafe closure (no more breakfast burritos) - Dirty Sally's has WiFi as well as what Natalie noted.

Another FYI - the Ten Sleep Brewery (slightly west of town) has showers available for $2. You can use the showers even if they're not open; the showers are outside and there is a dropbox for the money. They also have a sign inside that says they have camping for $3 but I don't know any details. Their beer is great. Jul 7, 2015

Things that we are learning from ten sleep:

1. we wish we knew the order of the cliffs at Valhalla, FCR and Mondo (umbrella areas that are not well sorted on MP). This could be done in MP which would be great for visiting climbers. Obviously the new book will solve this issue. Or if MP sorts the crags better.

Slavery approach obviously leads to slavery wall and near is left towards world domination/Antarctica/metropolis and right towards dreamland/chaos.

Gate approach goes to FCR and Valhalla which i think val has in order: munitions, nam, oblivion, d&s... not sure after or if i got that right.

2. No more bakery. It sucks we never got to eat there/lounge. seemed like a good spot. Baked goods are at dirty sally's. Also, no more second bar? Pizza is good at the saloon.

3. Thermopolis is good for showers but better to save yourself the trip if you don't love sulphur hot springs (public, 20 min maximum for swimming). $2 showers are easier and better on gas at the brewery. The town has no guidebooks and nothing seems too worth the drive (mostly just american diner food and souvenir shops that have doughnut coffee for the drive to yellowstone/tetons/windriver/glacier).

4. the brewery rules and I hope it becomes another miguel's. They easily could if camping gets good and they start selling guidebooks, ale-8 and pizza. The season is probably also longer if you consider how you could chase sun. Free Wifi, good plugs, good beer, free popcorn/pretzels (sometimes?) and a kitty.

5. Currently (and i guess sporadically) the cows are herded onto the free camping. Camping is $3 at the brewery and would be better for those who don't want to deal. Mooing in the morning. Not restful after 7ish AM. Someone was honking at them and I don't think that should be okay behaviour. Don't know the protocol really about this.

6. Outhouses are getting really full. Obviously due to the festival. Not sure who pays for this but thank you so much for that as i understand that before this was pretty bad.

otherwise, we've been here 5 sleeps and so not sure of other things: what's the best food, where to go on rest days and so forth. Jul 11, 2015

Great news to everyone. Canyon Collections should have the new guide book in sometime tomorrow (Tuesday, July 14th!) Price $100.00 but promise it it WELL worth the price. This is Aaron's last book, bound in leather, 3-D glasses included, ribbon in center for marking....This is IT. We open at 11:00...books should be here on UPS about 1:00. Thanks and see you soon. Judy Jul 13, 2015

Be aware that there is POISON IVY growing in some of the lower campsites on old Hwy 16. If you are allergic, I recommend familiarizing yourself with what this plant looks like.
Jul 17, 2015

Just got back from 4 sleeps in Tensleep and had a great time! Here are a few notes from our trip.

1. If you don't want to purchase the 100$ guidebook the mountain project app will suffice, certainly if supplemented by photocopies from the old guidebook (25 cents per page at the tensleep public library.)
2. Free camping is easy enough to find, but there doesn't seem to be a convenient water source anywhere on the old road. We met our friends at the brewery and stayed there a night (3$) and had a really good time. Certainly could be the next Miguels if tensleep attracted the massive crowds like the Red does.
3. The tick marks are outrageous. It is not good LnT practice to leave ticks everywhere, not to mention it is rude especially on ultra-classics. It takes away from those people trying to onsight routes, and with so many everywhere its just really confusing. Seriously, there were like 200+ tick marks on Center Shinto. Either everyone is leaving tick marks or its one person with some crazy and involved beta.
4. No grocery store. No beer except at the brewery.
5. The hotsprings at Thermopolis are developed, but free (free showers!) and rad.

Tensleep is an awesome and special little (massive???) place. Lets keep it pristine! Sep 3, 2015

A few corrections to Peter's comment:

There's a water pump at the campgrounds just before (going up) the fish hatchery at the beginning of the old road.
You can buy beer (mainly budweiser and its ilk, with fat tire and moose drool being the only bottles - no PBR, sorry climbers) at the ten sleep bar, but yeah, you should just get a growler from the brewery instead. Sep 30, 2015

Any updates on the fire? Jul 28, 2016

As of today 7/29/16 14:30
Forest Service personnel are in the process of posting closure area maps in the pullouts along the old and new Highway 16 routes. The closure does not extend to the south side of the highway, so that area is open. It may take the better part of the afternoon to post the maps, but it’ll happen. I’ve attached the map to this message. The map and the closure order are on our website atfs.usda.gov/bighorn/ and on InciWeb at inciweb.nwcg.gov/incident/4…. Jul 29, 2016

Anymore updates on the Ten Sleep fire? Are certain walls prohibited to climb on and if so, does anyone have the list please? I'm trying to plan a road trip. Thanks! Aug 10, 2016

The cliffs on the north side of the canyon, from the entrance up to the truck ramp, are closed. They will likely remain closed for the remainder of the season.

Here is a map:
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO… Aug 10, 2016

I am planning on visiting Ten Sleep this week. Are there any closures currently? Aug 15, 2016

Does anyone know if a stick clip is advised? Aug 14, 2017

It's a sport climbing area. A stick clip will always be helpful. But I can only think of a couple of routes where a stick clip is "mandatory". Aug 14, 2017

I'm planning a 10 day trip to WY October 1st. Aiming for the FRC, supererratic, mondo beyondo...but I've only been there in August. The forecast looks good with highs in the 60's for ten sleep (town). Will it be warm enough to climb up at these walls, or should I just head to Lander instead? Thank you Sep 25, 2017

Planning a trip for late May. Is old 16 open for camping by then? If not, any recommendations on free camp sites? Feb 19, 2018

The old highway will not be open for driving in May. I believe you could park and hike in if you wanted to camp over there, but there is plenty of free camping farther down the canyon. See my 2015 comment below for beta. Oh, and one note. The stream is raging during the spring runoff at that time, so don't set up camp too close to the water. We were forced to move our campsite closer to the highway one day because the water level was rising daily. Feb 28, 2018

I'm hoping to stop at Ten Sleep for a day or two of climbing as I move across the country towing a Uhaul trailer. How are the roads getting to campsites and climbing? Passable with a small trailer in tow? May 1, 2018

Graham, most parking pullouts are very narrow and accommodate only the length of 1 vehicle. You'd be better off finding a place to unhitch and park the trailer either in town or at a campsite and then just drive up to the canyon without it. Maneuvering the trailer around some of the free camping areas would be tricky as well. The paid camping would be fine I'm sure. May 8, 2018

Graham, send a note to Louie at tensleeprockranch.com/
It will be a lot less stress with your uhaul and finding a campsite. May 9, 2018

Looking to head to TenSleep until June 20.. need partners Jun 6, 2018

Looking for a partner to climb with 07/14-07/15. Partner injured himself so he's unable to belay. Looking to lead anything up to 11+ but will follow on whatever. (626)922-2018 shoot me a text! Jul 11, 2018

If you enjoy trail running, do not miss the two trails going into the Big Horn Wilderness out of West Ten Sleep Lake. Trail 065 leads to Lost Twin Lakes and is just under 12 miles round trip. Trail 063 goes to Lake Helen and is just under 10 miles round trip (longer if you continue in to Mistymoon Lake). Both are beautiful, pristine trails which end at incredible views. If these trails were near the Front Range of Colorado they would be world class trails with full parking lots and hoards of people on them daily. You might be lucky to see a few backpackers or fishers. You can pick up topo maps at the Deer Haven Lodge or the Forest Service/Wilderness buildings in Worland or Buffalo.

Deer Haven lodge is a great place to pick up ice, beer, other odds and ends, and get a great meal. We really enjoyed supporting them this past summer 2018, especially because the folks working there were super nice and made some real good food. Summers past the employees weren't the most friendly (maybe just towards climbers?), and the food was pretty bad. Prices are a bit higher than down in town, but you save gas money and wear-and-tear on your car driving up and down the canyon. They had great wifi too...

Last, we've used the Huey guidebook(s) for many years, but this past summer really enjoyed the Rakkup app. It's way cheaper, and includes WAY more climbs (like, probably a few hundred more...). It's got really good GPS features, which help you navigate to crags as well, which is nice since there isn't really any maps for the app. Aug 3, 2018