|GPS:||44.139, -107.245 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||richard magill on Apr 27, 2006|
DescriptionLocated just East of the town of Ten Sleep, Wyoming (population - less than 300) there are probably more climbers in Ten Sleep canyon on any given day of the Summer than live in this sleepy little Cowboy town. Once a little known backwater, Ten Sleep may now be the premier limestone climbing area in Wyoming.
The area boasts a huge amount of stone and a wide variation in the type of climbing.
There are dozens of mini-crags up and down the canyon offering nearly 1000 routes. Routes range in grade from 5.7 to 5.14. Due to the variety of orientations of walls in the canyon, it is possible to choose great climbing based what time of the day or what time of the year it is.
Leave your trad rack at home, as there are only a handful of not-recommended traditional routes. Bolts are king here and a fistful of 18 quickdraws will get you up even the longest route. A 60 meter rope is generally all you will need for any route in the canyon but always tie a knot in the other end as a safety precaution. Multi-pitch routes are rare but there are a handful of those as well.
Climbers begin to flock to the Canyon beginning Memorial Day weekend and taper off after Labor Day. Although Summer is a great time of the year for camping and climbing, the months before and after the 'season' can be ideal. Chasing the shade in the Summer gives way to chasing the sun any other time of year.
On climbing rest days, bring your fishing pole and buy a license to see if you can catch a meal from the river or either West Tensleep or Meadowlark Lake. There are great opportunities for Mountain Biking and Kayaking also. If you have the time to head into the back Country hike up toward Cloud Peak Wilderness Area for amazing views and fresh mountain air. Take a free tour of the amazing and high tech fish hatchery at Leigh Creek. And please!! Do not bathe or wash your rope at the Splash Pad in the park in the town of Ten Sleep.
The town of Ten Sleep offers several eating establishments and bars but no grocery store. Deer Haven at the top of the Canyon offers meals, private camp sites and has cabins for rent. Head East to Buffalo or West to Worland to stock or restock your supplies.
The most recent edition of the Ten Sleep Canyon climbing guide was picked up by a publisher after years of Aaron releasing yearly self published guides. Bigger, better, more polished but still irreverent and whacky as ever, 'lies and propaganda from ten sleep canyon' can be purchased locally at Dirty Sallys. Of course now you can find it at a variety of climbing shops and on the interweb as well with a minimal amount of searching. Look for a new edition circa 2015.
- Quickdraws (singles only), chalk, bags, etc available at the Canyon Collections Gift Shop at MSRP.
- Climber showers available at Ten Sleep Brewery for $2.
- Dirty Sally's is sometimes be sold out of guidebooks. Both the Brewery and Gift Shop above have copies at $35 a pop.
Getting ThereApproaching from the East, pass through the town of Buffalo and take HWY 16 across the Big Horns. On the downside of Powder River Pass you will go down a few miles until you cross Tensleep Creek. The parking area for Mondo Beyondo is here, just after the bridge on the north side of the road.
Approaching from the West, go through the town of Ten Sleep and head up into the canyon. Pretty simple.
Classic Climbing Routes at Ten Sleep Canyon
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season