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| Elevation: | 4,000 ft |
| GPS: | 44.139, -107.245 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 420,745 total · 2,886/month |
| Shared By: | richard magill on Apr 27, 2006 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder |
Description
Located just East of the town of Ten Sleep, Wyoming (population - less than 300) there are probably more climbers in Ten Sleep canyon on any given day of the Summer than live in this sleepy little Cowboy town. Once a little known backwater, Ten Sleep may now be the premier limestone climbing area in Wyoming.
The area boasts a huge amount of stone and a wide variation in the type of climbing.
There are dozens of mini-crags up and down the canyon offering nearly 1000 routes. Routes range in grade from 5.7 to 5.14. Due to the variety of orientations of walls in the canyon, it is possible to choose great climbing based what time of the day or what time of the year it is.
Leave your trad rack at home, as there are only a handful of not-recommended traditional routes. Bolts are king here and a fistful of 18 quickdraws will get you up even the longest route. A 60 meter rope is generally all you will need for any route in the canyon but always tie a knot in the other end as a safety precaution. Multi-pitch routes are rare but there are a handful of those as well.
Climbers begin to flock to the Canyon beginning Memorial Day weekend and taper off after Labor Day. Although Summer is a great time of the year for camping and climbing, the months before and after the 'season' can be ideal. Chasing the shade in the Summer gives way to chasing the sun any other time of year.
On climbing rest days, bring your fishing pole and buy a license to see if you can catch a meal from the river or either West Tensleep or Meadowlark Lake. There are great opportunities for Mountain Biking and Kayaking also. If you have the time to head into the back Country hike up toward Cloud Peak Wilderness Area for amazing views and fresh mountain air. Take a free tour of the amazing and high tech fish hatchery at Leigh Creek. And please!! Do not bathe or wash your rope at the Splash Pad in the park in the town of Ten Sleep.
The town of Ten Sleep offers several eating establishments and bars but no grocery store. Deer Haven at the top of the Canyon offers meals, private camp sites and has cabins for rent. Head East to Buffalo or West to Worland to stock or restock your supplies.
The most recent edition of the Ten Sleep Canyon climbing guide was picked up by a publisher after years of Aaron releasing yearly self published guides. Bigger, better, more polished but still irreverent and whacky as ever, 'lies and propaganda from ten sleep canyon' can be purchased locally at Dirty Sallys. Of course now you can find it at a variety of climbing shops and on the interweb as well with a minimal amount of searching. Look for a new edition circa 2015.
Local purchases:
The area boasts a huge amount of stone and a wide variation in the type of climbing.
There are dozens of mini-crags up and down the canyon offering nearly 1000 routes. Routes range in grade from 5.7 to 5.14. Due to the variety of orientations of walls in the canyon, it is possible to choose great climbing based what time of the day or what time of the year it is.
Leave your trad rack at home, as there are only a handful of not-recommended traditional routes. Bolts are king here and a fistful of 18 quickdraws will get you up even the longest route. A 60 meter rope is generally all you will need for any route in the canyon but always tie a knot in the other end as a safety precaution. Multi-pitch routes are rare but there are a handful of those as well.
Climbers begin to flock to the Canyon beginning Memorial Day weekend and taper off after Labor Day. Although Summer is a great time of the year for camping and climbing, the months before and after the 'season' can be ideal. Chasing the shade in the Summer gives way to chasing the sun any other time of year.
On climbing rest days, bring your fishing pole and buy a license to see if you can catch a meal from the river or either West Tensleep or Meadowlark Lake. There are great opportunities for Mountain Biking and Kayaking also. If you have the time to head into the back Country hike up toward Cloud Peak Wilderness Area for amazing views and fresh mountain air. Take a free tour of the amazing and high tech fish hatchery at Leigh Creek. And please!! Do not bathe or wash your rope at the Splash Pad in the park in the town of Ten Sleep.
The town of Ten Sleep offers several eating establishments and bars but no grocery store. Deer Haven at the top of the Canyon offers meals, private camp sites and has cabins for rent. Head East to Buffalo or West to Worland to stock or restock your supplies.
The most recent edition of the Ten Sleep Canyon climbing guide was picked up by a publisher after years of Aaron releasing yearly self published guides. Bigger, better, more polished but still irreverent and whacky as ever, 'lies and propaganda from ten sleep canyon' can be purchased locally at Dirty Sallys. Of course now you can find it at a variety of climbing shops and on the interweb as well with a minimal amount of searching. Look for a new edition circa 2015.
Local purchases:
- Quickdraws (singles only), chalk, bags, etc available at the Canyon Collections Gift Shop at MSRP.
- Climber showers available at Ten Sleep Brewery for $2.
- Dirty Sally's is sometimes be sold out of guidebooks. Both the Brewery and Gift Shop above have copies at $35 a pop.
Getting There
Approaching from the East, pass through the town of Buffalo and take HWY 16 across the Big Horns. On the downside of Powder River Pass you will go down a few miles until you cross Tensleep Creek. The parking area for Mondo Beyondo is here, just after the bridge on the north side of the road.
Approaching from the West, go through the town of Ten Sleep and head up into the canyon. Pretty simple.
Approaching from the West, go through the town of Ten Sleep and head up into the canyon. Pretty simple.
Classic Climbing Routes at Ten Sleep Canyon
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
127 Comments
More About Ten Sleep Canyon
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Guidebooks (2)
Boulder, CO
Pullman,WA
Morrison, CO
Any advice on where to find the guidebook? Jun 4, 2007
Pullman,WA
From Huey's website:
"Pick up a copy of the Tensleep Guide at DIRTY SALLY'S Ice Cream shop in Tensleep, The Wild Iris Mountain Store in downtown Lander, or Neptune Mountaineering in Boulder."
I'm still Pretty sure that the Wildy Sex Change has it too. Jun 13, 2007
Morrison, CO
Bring everything you need for wilderness camping cause the town of Ten Sleep had very little in the way of provisions.
Awesome place >>>> Aug 15, 2007
Never been to Tensleep. I saw the guide a couple of years ago and that alone got me stoked to check it out. I love pocketed limestone! Aug 20, 2007
if you like steep angles or routes above 5.12, ten sleep does not compare to the sinks. Sep 4, 2007
Boulder, CO
Loveland, Co
Tina May 27, 2008
Fort Collins, CO
The informal festival kind of dissolved for awhile but I hear its coming back big this year. Rodeo, street dance, and alot of new routes. Youll find a good number of climbers to hang out with that week, but will never find a crag thats crowded, there's just too much rock.
Camping in Tensleep is free on the old road. Routes in shade all day, the upper canyon goes in at 1pm. The Lower Canyon is good for morning. You couldnt climb all the routes there is you stayed all summer.
Guidebook can be found at the Ice Cream shop in Tensleep or online, search google for Tensleep climbing guide. I hear there are 700 routes there now. Is this true? There must be at least 500 from what Ive seen. Jun 2, 2008
Loveland, Co
Tina Jun 2, 2008
Fort Collins, CO
Longmont, CO
blog.myspace.com/index.cfm?…
I almost expect to see Mike pissing on the bases of all the routes. Bizarre... Jun 4, 2008
Loveland, Co
I saw this post too (by the way this is Tina from inner strength). I am heading there alone and am a little concerned about this guy, but I don't like the idea of not going either. But worst case scenario, things are weird and I pack it in and head home early. Hope all is well.
Tina Jun 4, 2008
> Some of you climb in Tensleep Canyon (WYO) and some of you dont.
>
> My hope is that if you love climbing or you know anyone at all who climbs in Ten Sleep that you will help us with a simple email to the local authorities.
>
> Mike Decker, a local who has created problems in the past is making threats against visitors to the canyon. While I dont believe that he will likely hurt anyone that he doesnt know, there is a VERY high likelihood that he will hurt one of the 6 main bolters in the canyon.
>
> Please take 1 minute and send a brief message that links his myspace posting (his "declaration of war") : blog.myspace.com/index.cfm?…
>
> And tell the authorities (following addresses are the police and sheriff) wcsdept@rtconnect.net, wcso201@rtconnect.net, worlpd@rtconnect.net, copwpd@rtconnect.net
> that you are concerned about the threat of violence and youd like them to act BEFORE something happens, not AFTER. That without action you will have a hard time visiting this summer.
>
> In 2006 Mike attacked two bolters that he knew, and was charged with battery. That summer he also chopped a dozen routes. Lets get a jump on this situation and stop it before it starts again. The best way to fight back is to not be afraid. COME IN LARGE NUMBERS AND ENJOY TEH CANYON.
>
> 500+ routes now, and free camping!
>
> This summer we are celebrating the 10th Annual (and very informal) Ten Sleep Climbing Festival over the 4th of July weekend (rodeo, street dance, and new routes)
>
> 100 emails coming in to the police department WILL make something happen.
> If you think of anyone else please send this on to them.
>
> Many Thanks.
> Jun 4, 2008
This matter can be dealt with before tragedy befalls anyone. I would need you to complete and file a formal affidavit as to the threats against you. This can be accomplished by coming to Worland, Wyoming and completing the affidavit first hand or I can forward you a statement form that you can fill out, have notarized and return the original back to me. At that time we can forward this information to the Washakie County Attorney. I have also spoken with Cindy Gradin, U.S. Forest Service Law Enforcement Officer out of Sheridan, Wyoming and advised her of this issue as well. She can be contacted at cgradin@fs.fed.us. We are willing to help you with this issue, but you are going to have to help us document these problems and make the County Attorney aware of them so some sort of action can be taken.
Thank You
Steven R. Rakness
Sheriff, Washakie County, Wyoming Jun 4, 2008
Loveland, Co
Tina Jun 4, 2008
Longmont, CO
Tina, we are fairly certain we will be there that weekend (along with some others). I wouldn't worry too much about this guy as there will probably be a fair number of people there. Jun 9, 2008
Loveland, Co
Denver, CO
Thanks Jun 19, 2008
Ft. Collins, CO
Climb hard.
J Jun 30, 2008
Longmont, CO
Krista, we have a child and we are going up with another family this weekend; I will let you know what I think. Jul 2, 2008
broomdigiddy
Not good :)
I wont be leaving any draw behind next week.
WEBE.
Mondo eh?
Any other must do's?? i'd like to see some flashy lines in the upper 12's and 13s.
Love the look of that stone!
It is gonna rock! Aug 27, 2008
Portland
i guess ill take it down and buy some new draws. ten sleep is the bomb cant wait til next summer! Sep 10, 2008
broomdigiddy
I wonder why yours came up missing with all that? there was no one around for 4 days. one other party that we had chatted with.
anyways.
sick sick sick.
the above mentioned walls are the shizz.
two thumbs up for the ten sleep saloon. Sep 10, 2008
Portland
Atlanta, GA
Any info appreciated...
Thanks,
Mike Mar 4, 2009
Boulder, CO
you can get it fromaaronhuey.com
or Dirty Sally's and the stagecoach shop in Tensleep. Also Wild Iris in Lander.
see you in July! May 4, 2009
Atlanta, GA
Given the timing of our trip, we prob won't have a chance to get the guide before heading out there. That said, can anyone recommend a good area for our first day on the rock? Something relatively easy to get to with a wide range of difficulty (5.9 to low 5.12). We're from the south, so we can deal with some heat (if that makes a difference in crag recommendation).
Thanks!
Mike Jun 10, 2009
Boulder, CO
Go to the main Mondo Beyondo area or Home Alone (right by the road). You won't have to worry about heat at Tensleep, all the westerners are wimps when it comes to that. If the 500 sweet routes at Tensleep aren't enough, or if your fingers get worked by the sharp dolomite, head to Spearfish Canyon in SD, it's only a couple of hours away and there are hundreds more routes that seem to be less sharp. Enjoy!! Jun 12, 2009
Atlanta, GA
Mike Jun 16, 2009
Laramie, WY
I got the beta. Its a Decker route, but since it doesn't really have any good parking, is all by its lonesome, and incredibly obvious, it might be worthwhile to leave it be until developing fills in around it. Jul 6, 2009
Chosstown, USA
Parker, Colorado
Portland, OR
Thanks a lot!
Ben May 13, 2010
Portland, OR
Ben May 13, 2010
evansville,wy
What is the mountain biking like out there? Is there single-track, or mostly riding on 4wd roads and dirt bike trails? Lots of it or limited?
Any beta is appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
paul Jul 12, 2010
Casper WY
Talked about Mega-bolted and some ultra classic routes. Never did I feel scared, and I am a 100% wuss lead climber. The people that did this are creating a world class #1 top destination. I've been on the road 3 months and this blows away any other crag.
I heard from a local that Mike Snyder???? Some Mike guy did most the work on this canyon. The approach paths must of took YEARS. Talk about hard work. And bolting 500+ climbs with bolts every 6 feet. Wow. Must of been YEARS of work and THOUSAND of dollars.
A heartfelt THANK YOU to whomever. Send me this guys contact info, I want to thank him personally if I come back.
Wow! Aug 17, 2010
Although Stan's routes often had about 20 feet between bolts... gnarler!
Stan put a group of us up in his house about a decade ago, drew us hand-drawn maps/topos, and then took us out for the best prime rib ever at the Worland VFW. Awesome! Aug 18, 2010
Parker, Colorado
Colorado Springs, CO
The 2011 Ten Sleep guidebook will be available sometime between April 15 and May 1 from stores all over the US. 250 pages, full color, waaaaay more photos and topos. Go to Ten Sleep's facebook page to see inside the book.
Advance orders can me made throughextremeangles.com Mar 18, 2011
Tucson, AZ
this guide surpasses every expectation one might have for a guide. it is a work of art. or comedy. or something. talk to Zach at extreme angles publishing and get a copy of this thing. then make your pilgramage. lord knows, now i'm really looking forward to mine.... May 5, 2011
Morrison, CO
Iowa
Casper WY
You will also want to stop at Sno Shavers and have the BEST shave ice this side on anywhere...REAL shave ice, not a snowcone with koolaide!!Add Ice Cream to the bottom for a real taste treat. May 22, 2012
You will also want to stop at Sno Shavers and have the BEST shave ice this side on anywhere...REAL shave ice, not a snowcone with koolaide!!Add Ice Cream to the bottom for a real taste treat. May 22, 2012
You can also drive to Worland and pay $5 at the campsite there. Or....drive an hour(ish) to Thermopolis on a rest day and get a free shower (YMCA style) at the hot springs there.....
Or just keep smelling like patchouli.......
Sno shavers is awessssssome! They also have jalapeño cheese filled soft pretzels, highly recommended. Jul 5, 2012
Denver, CO
Casper WY
Had an amazing 4th of July up at ten sleep this year! Did leave a pair of smith sunglasses on croakies hanging on a small pine underneath the El Shinto climbs. If anyone stumbled on them over 4th of July week I'd be happy to send you postage or a shipping label.
Many thanks to those who worked so hard to make ten sleep what it is! Jul 12, 2012
Cody, WY
"Every season I hear more and more comments from traveling climbers about manufactured holds in Ten Sleep Canyon. It would seem that chipping and drilling are not just confined to the 5.14's either. The evolution of this crag makes me sad. It's become another Jack's Canyon and an embarassment to Wyoming."
He is the only one who resorted to chipping and drilling pockets to make his routes go. Then when he was unable to redpoint them, he pulled all the bolts out in some childish sissy fit, throwing the bolts into the woods and farming the hangers for other 'new' routes he also couldn't climb. All sad but true.
Also Mr. Wendling, there are plenty of manufactured holds in the pristine limestone of the crags around Lander as well. Oct 25, 2012
moab, ut
CO
Wymont Kingdom
Thanks!
Mike May 10, 2013
Laramie, WY
I'm going to be in Ten Sleep July 10-12.
I'm looking for a partner to climb sport 10s and easy 11s.
Is camping easy to find in the area?
Thanks,
Leigh
Female, 44 Jul 3, 2013
Los Alamos, NM
Denver
Powder River Pass is mile marker 55 on highway 16.
Willow Park Campground is mile marker 45 on highway 16.
Deer Haven Lodge is mile marker 44 on highway 16.
The old road, gateway to good and free Ten Sleep camping, is near mile marker 42 on highway 16. The old road is not signed and difficult to spot at night. A good landmark is the old road turnoff is about 100 feet beyond the sign that says "Runaway Truck Ramp 2 miles". If you get to the bridge over Ten Sleep Creek, mile marker 41.70, you have gone too far.
The better but more crowded free camping options are higher up canyon on the old road. Further down the canyon on the old road the camping isn't as good, but there are plenty of options.
Ten Sleep is awesome. Looking forward to my return trip! Wally Jul 9, 2013
Los Alamos, NM
Casper WY
Palo Alto, California
I am from Alaska, I have been climbing for 30 yrs mixed, trad, sport, alpine. Kind of all around climber. I am a family man with children. Iam focused and want to get at it. Tick list kind of guy. Need partner. Climb, climb, climb.
Grant Walker
907 632-9341 Aug 20, 2013
Great beer ( perhaps the best pale ale I have ever had), cool owner, superb location! Love it!
Also has showers and laundry if you are camping in the canyon!!!
Check it out! Jun 19, 2014
Golden, Colorado
Casper WY
Austin, Texas
Also, put up a new route on Eldorado Coral Club. Just to the left of the 5.10d in the guide book. The name is notorious BCG's, it is mid 5.10. Put up July 2014
Great place to climb. Had a great summer in the Ten Sleep area. Aug 18, 2014
Bozeman, MT
Seattle, WA
Pierre, SD
The main road through town is under major construction and is currently all gravel. The Saloon and the Crazy Woman Café seemed to be about the only places to eat in town. Everyone was very kind, and the Saloon food was delicious.
The old HWY 16 road is closed until June 15 "to protect wildlife," so most of the free camping on that side is not yet accessible.
For free camping, we found the Wigwam creek access area just a few miles out of town. As you're heading towards the canyon, it is a turn off to the left down a steep dirt road over a cattle guard gate. There are probably 15+ developed sites with room for more. It also has a vault toilet.
GPS Coordinates for Campground turn:
39 U.S. 16, Ten Sleep, WY 82442, USA
Latitude: 44.067735 | Longitude: -107.369191
Hope this helps someone. The Canyon is amazing! May 28, 2015
Pierre, SD
Just emailed the tensleepcanyon@gmail.com address about ordering a new guidebook. Here's the response I got...
"The guide book is SOLD OUT! Sorry for the massive delay getting the new one out. Life is busy these days.
The next guide will be available (if all goes well) July 4th, 2015 in Ten Sleep, Wyoming. You will not find it in stores before August.
Book is sold/published throughextremeangles.com
Email Zach@extremeangles.com
Its worth the wait! Leather bible cover, many 3-D anaglyph images with 3-D glasses, 150 new routes and several new walls." Jun 6, 2015
Royal Oak, MI
Another FYI - the Ten Sleep Brewery (slightly west of town) has showers available for $2. You can use the showers even if they're not open; the showers are outside and there is a dropbox for the money. They also have a sign inside that says they have camping for $3 but I don't know any details. Their beer is great. Jul 7, 2015
1. we wish we knew the order of the cliffs at Valhalla, FCR and Mondo (umbrella areas that are not well sorted on MP). This could be done in MP which would be great for visiting climbers. Obviously the new book will solve this issue. Or if MP sorts the crags better.
Slavery approach obviously leads to slavery wall and near is left towards world domination/Antarctica/metropolis and right towards dreamland/chaos.
Gate approach goes to FCR and Valhalla which i think val has in order: munitions, nam, oblivion, d&s... not sure after or if i got that right.
2. No more bakery. It sucks we never got to eat there/lounge. seemed like a good spot. Baked goods are at dirty sally's. Also, no more second bar? Pizza is good at the saloon.
3. Thermopolis is good for showers but better to save yourself the trip if you don't love sulphur hot springs (public, 20 min maximum for swimming). $2 showers are easier and better on gas at the brewery. The town has no guidebooks and nothing seems too worth the drive (mostly just american diner food and souvenir shops that have doughnut coffee for the drive to yellowstone/tetons/windriver/glacier).
4. the brewery rules and I hope it becomes another miguel's. They easily could if camping gets good and they start selling guidebooks, ale-8 and pizza. The season is probably also longer if you consider how you could chase sun. Free Wifi, good plugs, good beer, free popcorn/pretzels (sometimes?) and a kitty.
5. Currently (and i guess sporadically) the cows are herded onto the free camping. Camping is $3 at the brewery and would be better for those who don't want to deal. Mooing in the morning. Not restful after 7ish AM. Someone was honking at them and I don't think that should be okay behaviour. Don't know the protocol really about this.
6. Outhouses are getting really full. Obviously due to the festival. Not sure who pays for this but thank you so much for that as i understand that before this was pretty bad.
otherwise, we've been here 5 sleeps and so not sure of other things: what's the best food, where to go on rest days and so forth. Jul 11, 2015
1. If you don't want to purchase the 100$ guidebook the mountain project app will suffice, certainly if supplemented by photocopies from the old guidebook (25 cents per page at the tensleep public library.)
2. Free camping is easy enough to find, but there doesn't seem to be a convenient water source anywhere on the old road. We met our friends at the brewery and stayed there a night (3$) and had a really good time. Certainly could be the next Miguels if tensleep attracted the massive crowds like the Red does.
3. The tick marks are outrageous. It is not good LnT practice to leave ticks everywhere, not to mention it is rude especially on ultra-classics. It takes away from those people trying to onsight routes, and with so many everywhere its just really confusing. Seriously, there were like 200+ tick marks on Center Shinto. Either everyone is leaving tick marks or its one person with some crazy and involved beta.
4. No grocery store. No beer except at the brewery.
5. The hotsprings at Thermopolis are developed, but free (free showers!) and rad.
Tensleep is an awesome and special little (massive???) place. Lets keep it pristine! Sep 3, 2015
Wyoming
There's a water pump at the campgrounds just before (going up) the fish hatchery at the beginning of the old road.
You can buy beer (mainly budweiser and its ilk, with fat tire and moose drool being the only bottles - no PBR, sorry climbers) at the ten sleep bar, but yeah, you should just get a growler from the brewery instead. Sep 30, 2015
Tucson, AZ
Idaho Springs, CO
Forest Service personnel are in the process of posting closure area maps in the pullouts along the old and new Highway 16 routes. The closure does not extend to the south side of the highway, so that area is open. It may take the better part of the afternoon to post the maps, but it’ll happen. I’ve attached the map to this message. The map and the closure order are on our website atfs.usda.gov/bighorn/ and on InciWeb at inciweb.nwcg.gov/incident/4…. Jul 29, 2016
Salt Lake City, Ut
Cody, WY
Here is a map:
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO… Aug 10, 2016
salt lake city
Winnipeg, Manitoba
Wymont Kingdom
Pierre, SD