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Areas in Palisades State Park

A Taste Of Fontainebleau 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Adelaide Flow 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Balancing Rock 4 / 0 / 5 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Beer Tower 3 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Bridge Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Bridge Routes 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Campground Boulder Wall 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Chockstone Tower 12 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Cliffs of Eraised 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Galaxy Tower 2 / 0 / 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Golden Buttress 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Great North Wall 1 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Harkor Tower 7 / 0 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Hobgoblin's Hideout 10 / 0 / 14 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
January Climb 2 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
King Chase Rock 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
King Rock 1 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Lone Ranger 1 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
MWC ( Minne-Wakan Cove), The 0 / 0 / 0 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Never Say Never 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
North of your wounded noggin 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Pig Boulders, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Playground Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Positron 4 / 0 / 4 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Queen Rock 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Railroad Panorama 3 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
RattleSnake 7 / 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
River Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Scandinavia 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Sesame Street Rocks 4 / 0 / 4 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Shady Acres 3 / 0 / 6 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Sink Hole Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
South Wall 11 / 0 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Split creek cracks 6 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Swingset Cove 4 / 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Tower of the Gods 4 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Upriver Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Wounded Noggin 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
katrina boulders, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Elevation: 1,441 ft
GPS: 43.69, -96.515 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 49,826 total, 367/month
Shared By: Jon Cannon on Oct 16, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

Description

The Split Rock Creek splits a band of Sioux Quartz just outside the town of Garretson, South Dakota, making for lots of climbing right off the water. Loads of picnickers will be strolling through the area during the summer. A good place for locals not really a "destination" climbing crag as the rock isn't all that tall or exciting. Expect humid summers with lots of bugs and mosquitoes at times because of its proximity to the river. The rock is currently the only rock climbing crag in Eastern South Dakota.

The rock is not very good for friction almost has a glassy feel but gets a wonderful pump due to the crimps and slopers. This place is good for experienced trad climbers as well as TRing. There are never ending crack systems through out the park. Great face climbs are Slandeross (5.12) , Debuant Farmers (5.12), King Olof (5.10) , Glimmer (5.10+) , Never Say Never (5.10) ,and Henry Aaron (5.7). The area saw bouldering development in 2009 and still holds potential for new problems. Great Boulder problems to check out are Contrivance (V5) , Necessary Contrivance (V4) , I Seam Stumped (V3) , Lithium CT (V2), and Head Hunters (V2). The area was developed from the likes of Greg Fossum, gary Johnson, Jim Slichter, Vern Olsen.

Getting There

10 miles north of Interstate 90, off the Brandon exit (Exit 406). 25495 485th Avenue, Garretson, SD 57030-6117

sdgfp.info/Parks/CampMaps/L…

211 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Palisades State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V2- 5+
Regular Route
Boulder
V2 5+
Grenada
Boulder
V3 6A
Hung Like A Horse
Boulder
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Garden Path
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Henry Aaron
TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Racecar Ya Ya's
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stepping Out
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The Bitch
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
The Son Of A Bitch
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sweet Areta
Trad, TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
King Olaf
TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cemetery Gates
Trad, TR
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Glimmer
TR
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Debutant Farmers
Trad, TR
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Aloha
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Regular Route River Boulder V2- 5+ Boulder
Grenada Bridge Boulder V2 5+ Boulder
Hung Like A Horse A Taste Of Fontainebleau V3 6A Boulder
Garden Path S Wall 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
Henry Aaron Chockstone Tower 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 TR
Racecar Ya Ya's Split creek cracks 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Stepping Out RattleSnake 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
The Bitch Chockstone Tower 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
The Son Of A Bitch Chockstone Tower 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
Sweet Areta S Wall 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
King Olaf King Rock 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
Cemetery Gates Harkor Tower 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Glimmer Harkor Tower 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b TR
Debutant Farmers Positron 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, TR
Aloha Chockstone Tower 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b TR
More Classic Climbs in Palisades State Park »

Weather Averages

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Photos

There seems to be a small handful of Boulder routes listed on here, but there has to be more that are not documented yet. Does anyone have suggestions on where to look for more boulders?
I would love to Trad Climb, but I have not learned how to yet... its on my long list of skills I need to learn! Aug 15, 2017
Jeff J.
Sioux Falls, SD
Jeff J.   Sioux Falls, SD
HamBone
The guide can be found locally at the Great Outdoor Store, Last Stop CD Shop, and from a guy who drives an aging silver Subaru w/ stickers on it. Or email palisadesguidebook@gmail.com May 18, 2017
Jordon
Rochester
Jordon   Rochester
I was in Sioux Falls a week ago and saw that there was a guide book out. Anyone seen it available online? A google search came up empty handed. May 18, 2017
Thank you much! I'm looking forward to visiting this weekend. Mar 13, 2017
jdereks
Minnesota
jdereks   Minnesota
Hey, Zach. The routes here can be set up with a set of nuts and some webbing, with the exception of the freestanding towers, which need to be led. Mar 7, 2017
Are there specific cams/nuts needed to top rope the 5.8-5.10 routes? I have never been to Palisades before and can't afford a full rack. Thanks in advance! Mar 7, 2017
trisgo
Omaha, NE (at the moment)
trisgo   Omaha, NE (at the moment)
Tried to make a better map based on descriptions, but I could be way off. Don't quote me. If you have corrections, shout 'em out.

Aug 21, 2015
trisgo
Omaha, NE (at the moment)
trisgo   Omaha, NE (at the moment)
I don't know, I guess it comes down to personal preference. I'd take Palisades over Blue Mounds anyday. There isn't as much climbing, but hearing the running water and being in the serene (I'm horrible at spelling)setting rather then a field at Blue Mounds is well worth the trade off for me. I usually go up there for the weekend and do Palisades on Saturday and Blue Mounds on Sunday. Sep 27, 2012
Tane Owens
Denver, CO
Tane Owens   Denver, CO
It seems like there have been a lot of climbing additions to the park in the past few years. Is there any chance someone with current knowledge of the area can make additions or updates to the beta/park overview photo? This would definitely help me around the park, and I'm sure others would benefit from it as well. May 26, 2012
Are there any sport routes in this area? Feb 8, 2011
Conor Raney
Pinedale, WY
Conor Raney   Pinedale, WY
Happy to see people start to explore this area more for bouldering. Want to get back and try some of the new stuff. Mike M? has been putting up a hard problems to attract a little more interest. I see him out there more than any other climber. Seems very knowledgeable and very friendly. I don't personally know him. He has been adding really good routes wish more did as well, I know it's hard but shoot, it'd be nice to have more hard problems in the vicinity. Nov 12, 2010

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