Elevation: 1,441 ft
GPS: 43.69, -96.515 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 74,051 total · 483/month
Shared By: Jon Cannon on Oct 16, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty
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Description

The Split Rock Creek splits a band of Sioux Quartz just outside the town of Garretson, South Dakota, making for lots of climbing right off the water. Loads of picnickers will be strolling through the area during the summer. A good place for locals not really a "destination" climbing crag as the rock isn't all that tall or exciting. Expect humid summers with lots of bugs and mosquitoes at times because of its proximity to the river. The rock is currently the only rock climbing crag in Eastern South Dakota.

The rock is not very good for friction almost has a glassy feel but gets a wonderful pump due to the crimps and slopers. This place is good for experienced trad climbers as well as TRing. There are never ending crack systems through out the park. Great face climbs are Slandeross (5.12) , Debuant Farmers (5.12), King Olof (5.10) , Glimmer (5.10+) , Never Say Never (5.10) ,and Henry Aaron (5.7). The area saw bouldering development in 2009 and still holds potential for new problems. Great Boulder problems to check out are Contrivance (V5) , Necessary Contrivance (V4) , I Seam Stumped (V3) , Lithium CT (V2), and Head Hunters (V2). The area was developed from the likes of Greg Fossum, gary Johnson, Jim Slichter, Vern Olsen.

Getting There

10 miles north of Interstate 90, off the Brandon exit (Exit 406). 25495 485th Avenue, Garretson, SD 57030-6117

sdgfp.info/Parks/CampMaps/L…

208 Total Climbs

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Location: Palisades State Park Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Palisades State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V2- 5+
 5
Regular Route
Boulder
V2 5+
 5
Grenada
Boulder
V3 6A
 3
Hung Like A Horse
Boulder
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 13
Garden Path
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 11
Henry Aaron
TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 4
Racecar Ya Ya's
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 14
The Bitch
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 10
The Son Of A Bitch
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Sweet Areta
Trad, TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
King Olaf
TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
Cemetery Gates
Trad, TR
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 16
Glimmer
TR
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 7
Debutant Farmers
Trad, TR
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 7
Aloha
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Regular Route Palisades SP Bo… > River Boulder aka The…
 5
V2- 5+ Boulder
Grenada Palisades SP Bo… > Bridge Boulder
 5
V2 5+ Boulder
Hung Like A Horse Palisades SP Bo… > A Taste of Fontainebleau
 3
V3 6A Boulder
Garden Path S Wall
 13
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
Henry Aaron Chockstone Tower
 11
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 TR
Racecar Ya Ya's Split creek cracks
 4
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
The Bitch Chockstone Tower
 14
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
The Son Of A Bitch Chockstone Tower
 10
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
Sweet Areta S Wall
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
King Olaf King Rock
 6
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
Cemetery Gates Harkor Tower
 7
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Glimmer Harkor Tower
 16
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b TR
Debutant Farmers Positron
 7
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, TR
Aloha Chockstone Tower
 7
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b TR
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