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Elevation: 1,441 ft
GPS: 43.6901, -96.5147
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 205,584 total · 972/month
Shared By: Jon Cannon on Oct 16, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty

Description Suggest change

The Split Rock Creek splits a band of Sioux Quartz just outside the town of Garretson, South Dakota, making for lots of climbing right off the water. Loads of picnickers will be strolling through the area during the summer. A good place for locals not really a "destination" climbing crag as the rock isn't all that tall or exciting. Expect humid summers with lots of bugs and mosquitoes at times because of its proximity to the river. The rock is currently the only rock-climbing crag in Eastern South Dakota.

The rock is not very good for friction almost has a glassy feel but gets a wonderful pump due to the crimps and slopers. This place is good for experienced trad climbers as well as TRing. There are never-ending crack systems throughout the park. Great face climbs are Slandeross (5.12), Debuant Farmers (5.12), King Olof (5.10), Glimmer (5.10+), Never Say Never (5.10), and Henry Aaron (5.7). The area saw bouldering development in 2009 and still holds potential for new problems. Mike Madsen, Jon Marek, Sam Nicolai and others developed many great problems. Some of the great Boulder problems to check out are Contrivance (V5), Necessary Contrivance (V4), I Seam Stumped (V3), Lithium CT (V2), and Head Hunters (V2). The area was developed by the likes of Greg Fossum, Gary Johnson, Jim Slichter, Vern Olsen, Dave Reinke, and Tom Wells. Fossum, Reinke, and Wells published a guidebook in 1983 which is no longer in print where many of the names differ from those here.

Getting There Suggest change

10 miles north of Interstate 90, off the Brandon exit (Exit 406). 25495 485th Avenue, Garretson, SD 57030-6117

here is a map of the whole area:https://gfp.sd.gov/userdocs/palisades-campground.pdf

223 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Palisades State Park Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Palisades State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V4 6B
 6
I Seam Stumped
Boulder
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 20
Garden Path
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 15
Henry Aaron
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 14
Mystery Climb
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 13
Cleopatra
TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 9
Alexander
TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 20
The Bitch
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 13
Hot Coals
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 13
The Son Of A Bitch
Trad, TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
The Czar
TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
King Olaf
TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 12
Cemetery Gates
Trad, TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 12
Your Girl
TR
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 22
Glimmer
TR
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 9
Aloha
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
I Seam Stumped Palisades SP Bo… > Bridge Boulder
 6
V4 6B Boulder
Garden Path S Wall
 20
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
Henry Aaron Chockstone Tower
 15
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 TR
Mystery Climb S Wall
 14
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Cleopatra King Rock
 13
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
Alexander King Rock
 9
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
The Bitch Chockstone Tower
 20
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Hot Coals Harkor Tower
 13
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
The Son Of A Bitch Chockstone Tower
 13
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
The Czar King Rock
 7
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
King Olaf King Rock
 8
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
Cemetery Gates Harkor Tower
 12
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Your Girl RattleSnake
 12
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
Glimmer Harkor Tower
 22
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b TR
Aloha Chockstone Tower
 9
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a TR
More Classic Climbs in Palisades State Park »

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