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Elevation: 11,909 ft 3,630 m
GPS: 36.27159, -115.69547
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Shared By: Matt McMurray on Aug 15, 2006 · Updates
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Description Suggest change

This is one of the premier climbing destinations in the US, if hard (and often manufactured) limestone routes are what you're seeking. The beautiful surroundings, overhanging caves, and cooler temperatures make Mt. Charleston a welcomed escape from the desert heat of Las Vegas during the summer months. Mt. Charleston is most well-known for having chipped routes and its hard pocketed testpieces such as Jason Campbell's Soul Train: 5.14a, Chris Sharma's Hasta La Vista: 5.14b/c, and Dan McQuade's Infectious Groove: 5.13b. Other climbers of note who contributed to the excellent climbing up on the mountaintop include Tony Yaniro, Randy Marsh, Leo Henson, Terry Parish, Rob Mulligan, Joe Brooks, Francois LeGrand, Doug Englekirk, etc. Mt. Charleston also sports numerous other quality lines ranging from 5.10 and up, so if you are in Vegas and looking to avoid the scorching sun and overcrowding of Red Rocks, head 45 minutes north to this pine tree oasis.

Much of this area is in the Mount Charleston Wilderness Area. See the BLM Fact Sheet for a good overview of what it protects and what that limits, and the Forest Service page for other information. One important distinction for route developers is that it's illegal to use power drills in a wilderness area, and bad ethics to operate one within earshot of one. As always, check with and respect the local climbing community on what goes where before doing such things.

Mount Charleston is located on the ancestral lands of Southern Paiute, also known as the Nuwuvi. The Southern Paiute name for Mt. Charleston is Nuvagantu, or "where the snow sits". Nuvagantu is commonly recognized by the Southern Paiute (or Nuwuvi) as the place where they were created as a people and is considered by them to be a holy land. (Source - DOI: 10.2307/1185646).

Getting There Suggest change

The Mount Charleston area is located forty minutes west of Las Vegas in the Toiyabe National Forest. Take Hwy 95 north out of Vegas. Shortly after the houses stop, you will see a sign directing you to turn left for Kyle Canyon Road (Nevada State Route 157). Head up this road for several miles until you reach the area you're looking for. Most of the climbing is past the turnoff for Lee Canyon via Deer Creek Road (State Route 158).

448 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mount Charleston

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 143
1057
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 104
Mary Jane
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 120
Bat Boy
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 64
Heating Up the Hood
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 25
The Imaginator
Sport 3 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 93
Highway Man
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 58
Conny Loves Daddy
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 58
The Great Train Robbery Extension
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 92
Audiophile
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 65
Delivering the Smiles
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 45
Artemis
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 36
All Your Pump Are Belong to Us!
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 31
Gutter Mouth
Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 34
Glory Daze
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 63
Straight Outta Compton
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
1057 Kyle Canyon > Yellow Pine
 143
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Mary Jane Kyle Canyon > Mary Jane Cliff
 104
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Bat Boy Kyle Canyon > … > N Echo Cliff > Sonar Wall
 120
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Heating Up the Hood Kyle Canyon > Hood > 3. Pine Tree Ledge
 64
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Imaginator Kyle Canyon > Imagination Wall > Central Slab Area
 25
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport 3 pitches
Highway Man Route 158 > Robber's Roost > Robbery Wall
 93
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Conny Loves Daddy Route 158 > Robber's Roost > Robbery Wall
 58
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
The Great Train Robbery Ext… Route 158 > Robber's Roost > Robbery Wall
 58
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Audiophile Kyle Canyon > … > N Echo Cliff > Sonar Wall
 92
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Delivering the Smiles Kyle Canyon > White Pine
 65
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Artemis Kyle Canyon > … > N Echo Cliff > Sonar Wall
 45
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
All Your Pump Are Belong to… Kyle Canyon > White Pine
 36
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Gutter Mouth Route 158 > Robber's Roost > Burglar Wall
 31
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Glory Daze Route 158 > Robber's Roost > Robbery Wall
 34
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Straight Outta Compton Kyle Canyon > Hood > 7. The Compton Cave
 63
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Mount Charleston »

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