Elevation: 11,913 ft
GPS: 36.272, -115.695 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 719,437 total · 3,911/month
Shared By: Matt McMurray on Aug 15, 2006
Admins: Justin Johnsen
Access Issue: Mount Charleston Wilderness Area Details

Description

This is one of the premier/most controversial climbing destinations in the US, if hard limestone routes are what you're seeking. The beautiful surroundings, overhanging caves, and cooler temperatures make Mt. Charleston a welcomed escape from the desert heat of Las Vegas during the summer months. Mt. Charleston is most well-known for having chipped routes and its hard pocketed testpieces such as Jason Campbell's Soul Train: 5.14a, Chris Sharma's Hasta La Vista: 5.14b/c, and Dan McQuade's Infectious Groove: 5.13b. Other climbers of note who contributed to the excellent climbing up on the mountaintop include Tony Yaniro, Randy Marsh, Leo Henson, Terry Parish, Rob Mulligan, Joe Brooks, Francois LeGrand, Doug Englekirk, etc. etc. etc. Mt. Charleston also sports numerous other quality lines ranging from 5.10 and up, so if you are in Vegas and looking to avoid the scorching sun and overcrowding of Red Rocks, head 45 minutes north to this pine tree oasis.

Note: The majority of the information I've posted on Mt. Charleston came directly from the guidebook Islands In The Sky, and proper credit should be given to its authors; Dan McQuade, Randy Leavitt, and Mick Ryan.

Much of this area is in the Mount Charleston Wilderness Area. See the BLM Fact Sheet for a good overview of what it protects and what that limits, and the Forest Service page for other information. One important distinction for route developers is that it's illegal to use power drills in a wilderness area, and bad ethics to operate one within earshot of one. As always, check with and respect the local climbing community on what goes where before doing such things.

Getting There

The Mount Charleston area is located forty minutes west of Las Vegas in the Toiyabe National Forest. Take Hwy 95 north out of Vegas. Shortly after the houses stop, you will see a sign directing you to turn left for Kyle Canyon Road (Nevada State Route 157). Head up this road for several miles until you reach the area you're looking for. Most of the climbing is past the turnoff for Lee Canyon via Deer Creek Road (State Route 158).

361 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mount Charleston

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 74
Where's my Dog?
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 62
Relax and Stem
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 89
The Punisher
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 115
1057
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 61
The Rooster
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 70
Disaster Dog
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 67
unnamed
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 83
Mary Jane
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 97
The Great Train Robbery
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 87
Bat Boy
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 55
Heating Up the Hood
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 59
Bubblicious
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 75
Highway Man
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 59
Audiophile
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 50
Straight Outta Compton
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Where's my Dog? Kyle Canyon > Walla Walla Wash
 74
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Relax and Stem Starter Crag
 62
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Punisher Kyle Canyon > Yellow Pine
 89
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
1057 Kyle Canyon > Yellow Pine
 115
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
The Rooster Robber's Roost
 61
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Disaster Dog Kyle Canyon > … > N Echo Cliff > Sonar Wall
 70
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
unnamed Kyle Canyon > Yellow Pine
 67
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Mary Jane Kyle Canyon > Mary Jane Cliff
 83
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The Great Train Robbery Robber's Roost
 97
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Bat Boy Kyle Canyon > … > N Echo Cliff > Sonar Wall
 87
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Heating Up the Hood Kyle Canyon > Hood > Pine Tree Ledge
 55
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Bubblicious Robber's Roost
 59
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Highway Man Robber's Roost
 75
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Audiophile Kyle Canyon > … > N Echo Cliff > Sonar Wall
 59
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Straight Outta Compton Kyle Canyon > Hood > Compton Cave
 50
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Mount Charleston »

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