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Areas in Mount Charleston

Blue Sky Bluff 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Cathedral Rock 1 / 15 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Echo Cliffs 0 / 21 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 21
Glass House, The 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Hood, The 0 / 63 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 63
Ice House, The 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Imagination Wall, The 1 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Mary Jane Cliff 0 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Mount Charleston Ice 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Mount Charleston Ski Randonnee 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Pirate's Cove 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Robber's Roost 0 / 41 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 41
Starter Crag 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Subway, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Universal Wall 1 / 10 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Walla Walla Wash 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Yellow Pine 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Elevation: 11,913 ft
GPS: 36.272, -115.695 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Matt McMurray on Aug 15, 2006
Admins: Justin Johnsen

Description

This is one of the premier/most controversial climbing destinations in the US, if hard limestone routes are what you're seeking. The beautiful surroundings, overhanging caves, and cooler temperatures make Mt. Charleston a welcomed escape from the desert heat of Las Vegas during the summer months. Mt. Charleston is most well-known for having chipped routes and its hard pocketed testpieces such as Jason Campbell's Soul Train: 5.14a, Chris Sharma's Hasta La Vista: 5.14b/c, and Dan McQuade's Infectious Groove: 5.13b. Other climbers of note who contributed to the excellent climbing up on the mountaintop include Tony Yaniro, Randy Marsh, Leo Henson, Terry Parish, Rob Mulligan, Joe Brooks, Francois LeGrand, Doug Englekirk, etc. etc. etc. Mt. Charleston also sports numerous other quality lines ranging from 5.10 and up, so if you are in Vegas and looking to avoid the scorching sun and overcrowding of Red Rocks, head 45 minutes north to this pine tree oasis.

Note: The majority of the information I've posted on Mt. Charleston came directly from the guidebook Islands In The Sky, and proper credit should be given to its authors; Dan McQuade, Randy Leavitt, and Mick Ryan.

Much of this area is in the Mount Charleston Wilderness Area. See the BLM Fact Sheet for a good overview of what it protects and what that limits, and the Forest Service page for other information. One important distinction for route developers is that it's illegal to use power drills in a wilderness area, and bad ethics to operate one within earshot of one. As always, check with and respect the local climbing community on what goes where before doing such things.
Mount Charleston Wilderness Area Details

Getting There

The Mount Charleston area is located forty minutes west of Las Vegas in the Toiyabe National Forest. Take Hwy 95 north out of Vegas. Shortly after the houses stop, you will see a sign directing you to turn left for Kyle Canyon Road (Nevada State Route 157). Head up this road for several miles until you reach the area you're looking for. Most of the climbing is past the turnoff for Lee Canyon via Deer Creek Road (State Route 158).

237 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mount Charleston

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Relax and Stem
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
1057
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
The Punisher
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
The Rooster
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
unnamed
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
unknown 2
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mary Jane
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
The Great Train Robbery
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Heating Up the Hood
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
The Imaginator
Sport 3 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bubblicious
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Highway Man
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Conny Loves Daddy
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Glory Daze
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Straight Outta Compton
Sport
Relax and Stem Starter Crag 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
1057 Yellow Pine 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
The Punisher Yellow Pine 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
The Rooster Robber's Roost 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
unnamed Yellow Pine 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
unknown 2 Yellow Pine 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Mary Jane Mary Jane Cliff 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The Great Train Robbery Robber's Roost 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Heating Up the Hood Hood > Pine Tree Ledge 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Imaginator Imagination Wall > Central Slab Area 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport 3 pitches
Bubblicious Robber's Roost 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Highway Man Robber's Roost 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Conny Loves Daddy Robber's Roost 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Glory Daze Robber's Roost 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Straight Outta Compton Hood > Compton Cave 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Mount Charleston »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
A lot of people have told me this area is extremely sand bagged. I just got back from my first trip here and would have to disagree with that idea. I generally climb well featured high friction overhanging sandstone so making the transition was definitely difficult for me. But once I figured out how to climb the limestone here the grades felt in line with most areas I have climbed at. It was also interesting to find that the harder the grades got the better the holds were! This is a great summer climbing destination that I highly recommend to anyone climbing at least llc and above. While Vegas is 120 degrees out Mt Charleston is in the 60-70s and shade can be found! If you do climb here be prepared to become a better rock climber as most of the routes 12 and under demand flawless technique. My only complaint is that while the bolt spacing is great the bolt placement can sometimes be annoying. A few routes would have a bolt in the middle of a crux instead of near the jug's before and after the crux. Jul 10, 2016
Sam Thompson
Missoula, Montana
Sam Thompson   Missoula, Montana
soul train is 5.13d fyi Jun 10, 2016
I'm guessing this was you as well then?

reviewjournal.com/news/las-… Apr 6, 2016
Rod J.
Bend, OR
Rod J.   Bend, OR
I kept hearing that Mt. Charleston was North of Las Vegas, so I thought it was up highway 93. Turns out that it is due (magnetic (+11 deg.)) West of Las Vegas.

Another way to look at it is that if the North portion of highway 215 were to continue West, it would pass North of Mt. Charleston!

Hope this saves somebody a trip up highway 93. Mar 30, 2016
Keep an eye on the fixed link draws in the area, especially at crux's. After taking a couple of good sized falls on the crux of The Great Train Robbery, (the bolt below the ledge), I managed to core shot my rope on a carabiner that had been worn down enough to create an edge. I have replaced this biner, but that is not to say that it won't happen again or that there aren't more biners such as this one.

I would like to stress the importance of keeping your rope on a rope bag during belays as to keep dirt and debris from wearing down the surface of draws. It was kind enough of our fellow craggers to put these permanent fixtures up, but it is our job to keep them safe. Oct 5, 2010
Mike Dudley
Vegas
Mike Dudley   Vegas
There are not that many routes listed here on MP but there are a lot of routes up there. Grab a guide book and enjoy the super hard and sharp limestone! Jun 22, 2009
Campgrounds of Mt. Charleston: (dead link removed)

The 'Hilltop' is the most popular campground, and has warm showers (coin operated). Make your reservations way ahead of time, if planning on being there in the summer/warmer months. Oct 3, 2006

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