Elevation: 7,817 ft
GPS: 36.267, -115.658 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 103,620 total · 599/month
Shared By: Matt McMurray on Aug 15, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Justin Johnsen
Access Issue: Mount Charleston Wilderness Area Details

Description

Simply put, the Hood is the most important/best cliff on Mt. Charleston, and is world famous for its incredible concentration of high-quality (manufactured) routes. There are many reasons for the Hood's popularity including a short-peasant approach, cool summer air, beautiful alpine surroundings, and most importantly the glassy smooth white limestone that is punctuated by soaring lines of (drilled) pockets. The quality of the routes go up with the grades, and the Hood boasts four separate limestone caves all with excellent steep routes.

Getting There

Take S.R. 57 from I-95 all the way past the Mt. Charleston hotel into Kyle Canyon. Follow this road as it winds up the hill until you encounter a sharp left-turning bend in the road. Immediately before this bend, turn right off of the road onto Echo Rd. and continue uphill past the signs toward the Mary Jane Falls turn-off. A short distance farther ahead is the small parking area for the hood at Trail Canyon. If this parking area is full park at the Mary Jane Falls trailhead parking and hike up to the Trail Canyon trailhead.

Hike up Trail Canyon for about five minutes until you can see the distinctive hat-shaped central section of the Hood up on your left. Look for two obvious large red-barked pine trees on your left; the trail up to the Hood starts here. It immediately crosses a small wash and then meets up with a series of switchbacks up the wooded slope towards the Corrosion Cave.

Don't take short cuts... this is a Wilderness Area!! =)

65 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Hood

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 30
Feel No Evil
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 37
Touch of Grey
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 30
Finger Injection
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 32
Witness This
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 12
Across the Universe
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 39
Heating Up the Hood
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 6
Shell Shock
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 21
Gun Tower
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 8
Rappin Boyz
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 9
Bloodline
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 12
Urban Decay
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 39
Straight Outta Compton
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 9
Warlord
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 3
Corrosion
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 8
Infectious Groove
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Feel No Evil Souls Slab
 30
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Touch of Grey Infectious Cave / Slab
 37
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Finger Injection Infectious Cave / Slab
 30
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Witness This Pine Tree Ledge
 32
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Across the Universe Corrosion Cave
 12
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Heating Up the Hood Pine Tree Ledge
 39
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Shell Shock Walk By Slab
 6
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Gun Tower Pine Tree Ledge
 21
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Rappin Boyz S Central
 8
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Bloodline S Central
 9
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Urban Decay Infectious Cave / Slab
 12
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Straight Outta Compton Compton Cave
 39
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Warlord Corrosion Cave
 9
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Corrosion Corrosion Cave
 3
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Infectious Groove Infectious Cave / Slab
 8
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Hood »

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