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The Hood Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in The Hood

Infectious Cave 0 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12

Infectious Slab 0 / 3 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Corrosion Cave and Walk-By Slab 0 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13

Pine Tree Ledge 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8

South Central 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6

Souls Cave 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9

Souls Slab 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8

Compton Cave 0 / 15 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15

Explore this area in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	7,817 ft	2,383 m
GPS:	36.26747, -115.65816 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	151,870 total · 624/month
Shared By:	Matt McMurray on Aug 15, 2006 · Updates
Admins:	Luke EF, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: Trail/parking closure until fall 2027 Details

The beginning of the trailhead canyon trail and parking lot are closed until Fall 2027: fs.usda.gov/r04/humboldt-to…

The Hood and The Balcony can technically be accessed via the North Loop trail, though this would be a ludicrously long approach.

Access Issue: Partial closure due to flood damage Details

Severe flood damage in August of 2023 has caused closures on parts of the mountain.

Latest update as of May 2025:
fs.usda.gov/r04/humboldt-to…

~* Open / Accessible *~
ROUTE 158 CRAGS
All Open (Starter Crag, Robbers Roost, Glasshouse, etc.)

CATHEDRAL ROCK AREA / SOUTH LOOP
The Dark Tower
Palantine Wall
Chert Locker
The Chapel
Sonar Wall
The Belltower
Sound Garden
Walden
Weakness Wall
Cathedral Rock N Face

BLUE SKY BLUFF / PIRATES COVE
Open

THE HOOD / THE BALCONY
Access from N Loop Trail only

!!! Closed !!!
MARY JANE AREA
Imagination Wall
Fast Food Crag
Universal Wall
Mary Jane Cliff
White Pine Cliff
Yellow Pine Cliff
Walla Walla Wash
Nueva Esperanza

Description

Simply put, the Hood is the most important/best cliff on Mt. Charleston, and is world famous for its incredible concentration of high-quality (manufactured) routes. There are many reasons for the Hood's popularity including a reasonable approach, cool summer air, beautiful alpine surroundings, and most importantly the glassy smooth white limestone that is punctuated by soaring lines of (sometimes enhanced) pockets. The quality of the routes go up with the grades, and the Hood boasts four separate limestone caves all with excellent steep routes. Between the caves are tall, vertical walls.

Sub-areas are ordered left to right.

Getting There

Park at the Trail Canyon Trailhead parking lot, or as close as possible if the lot is full, being mindful of parking signage.

Hike along the Trail Canyon trail until you see a big "Mt. Charleston Wilderness" wooden sign in a shaded clearing. Just beyond the sign is a gravel path on the left side of the main trail that crosses the wash. Follow this up a series of steep switchbacks and you'll be deposited at the Corrosion Cave.

0.5 mi and 400 ft of elevation gain, ~15 minutes.

Please do not approach the crag via any other trails to help keep social trails at a minimum. This is a wilderness area.

75 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Hood

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 36 ● Feel No Evil Sport Souls Slab
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 44 ● Finger Injection Sport Infectious Cave
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 45 ● Witness This Sport Pine Tree Ledge
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 27 ● Across the Universe Sport Corrosion Cave & Walk…
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 69 ● Heating Up the Hood Sport Pine Tree Ledge
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 28 ● Rappin Boyz Sport S Central
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a 36 ● Gun Tower Sport Pine Tree Ledge
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 5 ● Gun Tower Extension Sport Pine Tree Ledge
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 24 ● Urban Decay Sport Infectious Cave
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 74 ● Straight Outta Compton Sport Compton Cave
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 17 ● Warlord Sport Corrosion Cave & Walk…
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 7 ● Equalizer Sport Compton Cave
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 7 ● Corrosion Sport Corrosion Cave & Walk…
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c 17 ● Infectious Groove Sport Infectious Cave
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a 4 ● Free at Last Sport Compton Cave