Elevation: 2,018 ft
GPS: 35.919, -93.202 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 498,333 total · 38,369/month
Shared By: JD Borgeson on Sep 23, 2020
Admins: Tyler KC, JD Borgeson

Description

This is the Arkansas Climbing's bread and butter. This region hosts the most and the best climbing in Arkansas, consisting of Newton County and surrounding areas. The two most well known areas in Arkansas exist in this region: Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and Sam's Throne. It also contains neo-classic areas such as Rock Creek, Stack Rock, Hudson Mountain, and many more. There is also excellent bouldering in the region, both for moderate climbers (Hurricane Creek) and the strongest of the strong (Fred's Cave), with a large selection of everything in between.

Getting There

If travelling from the north, either east or west, you will likely be taking Hwy 412 to central Arkansas, then head south at different points depending on the crag you are going to. To approach from the south, you will travel I-40 and head north at Clarksville, Russellville, or Conway (again depending on which crag it is you seek).

1,571 Total Climbs

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Location: North-Central Arkansas Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at North-Central Arkansas

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V4 6B
 175
Dig Dug
Boulder
V4 6B
 129
Le Beak
Boulder
V5 6C
 109
Warbonnet
Boulder
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 449
Green Goblin
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 149
Hackberry Crack
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 119
WMA Crack
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 102
Mr. Magoo
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 170
Learning to Fly
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 369
Crimp Scampi
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 303
Horseshoes and Hand Grenades
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 76
Dead Dog
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 157
Big Top
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 124
Taliban Soup
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 86
Boronocus
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 142
Fat Hand
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Dig Dug Horseshoe Canyo… > … > Idaho Boulders > Loaf Boulder
 175
V4 6B Boulder
Le Beak Cowell/Deer Area > Cowell > Font Red
 129
V4 6B Boulder
Warbonnet Horseshoe Canyo… > … > Idaho Boulders > Crescent/War Bonnet Area
 109
V5 6C Boulder
Green Goblin Horseshoe Canyo… > N Side > N Forty Routes
 449
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Hackberry Crack Horseshoe Canyo… > W Side > Walls Of Moria
 149
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
WMA Crack Horseshoe Canyo… > W Side > Confederate Cracks
 119
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Mr. Magoo Horseshoe Canyo… > E Side > Magoo Rock
 102
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Learning to Fly Horseshoe Canyo… > W Side > Prophecy Wall
 170
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Crimp Scampi Horseshoe Canyo… > N Side > N Forty Routes
 369
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Horseshoes and Hand Grenades Horseshoe Canyo… > E Side > Far East
 303
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Dead Dog Sam's Throne &… > … > 4. E Main Bluff > Dead Dog & Energamata…
 76
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Big Top Horseshoe Canyo… > N Side > N Forty Routes
 157
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Taliban Soup Horseshoe Canyo… > W Side > Prophecy Wall
 124
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Boronocus Horseshoe Canyo… > E Side > Roman Wall
 86
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Fat Hand Horseshoe Canyo… > N Side > N Forty Routes
 142
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in North-Central Arkansas »

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