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Routes in Prophecy Wall

Dirka Dirka S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Egyptian Airbus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Granny Tranny S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jihad S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Learning to Fly S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Paying the Tranny S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Prophet, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Ramblin' Man S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Taliban soup S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,993 total · 22/month
Shared By: Erik Pohlman on Oct 24, 2007
Admins: TylerKC

You & This Route


101 Opinions

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Description

Good face climb at a pretty sustained angle.

Location

Starts just right of the the large overhang on Egyptian Airbus and just left of another 5.10 that starts on an undercut section.

Protection

5-6 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Brent Butcher
  5.10c
Brent Butcher  
  5.10c
Don't blow it at the top, good little fall if you do. The crux is clipping the chains. May 20, 2011
SmithVentures
Fayetteville, WV
SmithVentures   Fayetteville, WV
Very true about the crux. My friend had the rope under his legs and slipped at the anchor resulting in him being flipped upside down. The upside is...he had his helmet on, which probably saved him from a nasty boo-boo, but yeah, look around the top before ascending to the anchors. I found some bomber holds on the right side leading up to the anchor and it was no problem clipping. Oct 6, 2011
Spencer Scott
Kansas City, MO
  5.10c
Spencer Scott   Kansas City, MO
  5.10c
What a classic climb! Steep and sustained with various rest. This is an enduro burner for sure, you really need to pay attention to your rest opportunities and use them well. The pump comes quick, the crux is definitely getting settled to clip the chains. Feb 9, 2015
Michael Parker
Tulsa, OK
  5.10c
Michael Parker   Tulsa, OK
  5.10c
I was fortunate enough to watch someone get their pilot's license when they learned to fly by taking a massive whipper when they couldn't clip the chains. Unfortunately or fortunately, depending on how you look at it, I was able to find a good clip stance and clip the anchors before I peeled off. We figured it was best to clip from the lowest possible point while you are still on that massive horn instead of climbing up higher onto thin, slopey holds. Either way, this is a fantastic route that should be on everybody's tick list. Mar 20, 2017

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