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Elevation: 868 ft 265 m
GPS: 36.00689, -93.18812
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Shared By: Erik Pohlman on Dec 24, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Tyler KC, JD Borgeson

Welcome Suggest change

Anyone ready for some backwoods climbing? That's right, there ain't no high alpine to be found here. There's just down and dirty backwoods climbing on high-quality sandstone. Though overlooked for a long time by the big names, the locals haven't complained. Over the years they have put up excellent quality natural lines from the classic dihedral Poison Ivy (5.7+) to harder lines such as Titanic (5.11X) and Bear Bait (5.12- S), all at Sam's Throne.

In addition to the classic trad routes, Horseshoe Canyon Ranch hosts a number of excellent quality bolted lines of all difficulties, even up to Sharma's famous "Paying the Rent"(5.14a). It's the  moderate mecca of the Midwest, holding an extremely large concentration of climbing in its domain. An excellent place for those just getting into the sport of climbing, or seasoned veterans, as there is something for everyone at the Ranch. Arguably one of the single best climbing destinations in the whole Midwest.

Other than the famed HCR, Arkansas is on the cusp of its golden age, with new routes going up by the day - there is something to be found around every corner, and the only limitations are access and imagination. If you're one for adventure and travelling off the beaten path to find some Southern Sandbagging, or looking for world-class pitches deep within the hills of the Ozarks, it is well worth your time and memories to stray away from the ranch to see what the "Natural State" has to offer.

For a taste of real backwoods climbing in Arkansas, places like the Cowell area or Richland Creek Area offer 4 star climbs in remote settings.

Rescources Suggest change

The latest guidebooks are as follows.

Arkansas Bouldering



Rock Climbing Arkansas 2nd Edition- Cole Fennel



If you are climbing in the state chances are you are climbing at/near horseshoe canyon. Jasper is the closest town with amenities. There is a small grocery and some eateries.

Beware, Newton County IS dry, therefor if your looking for a drink, you'll have to drive up to Harrison Arkansas. Best to prepare ahead of time.

Some useful websites are:

HCR
Fern Area

3,223 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Arkansas

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V4 6B
 255
Dig Dug
Boulder
V4 6B
 189
Le Beak
Boulder
V5 6C
 173
Warbonnet
Boulder
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 590
Green Goblin
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 357
Swamp Rat
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 181
Hackberry Crack
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 414
Orange Crush
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 242
Dancing Outlaw
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 280
Commodus
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 243
Learning to Fly
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 476
Crimp Scampi
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 406
Horseshoes and Hand Grenades
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 169
Taliban Soup
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 204
Big Top
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 195
Fat Hand
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Dig Dug North-Central A… > … > Idaho Boulders > Loaf Boulder
 255
V4 6B Boulder
Le Beak North-Central A… > … > Cowell > Font Red
 189
V4 6B Boulder
Warbonnet North-Central A… > … > Idaho Boulders > Crescent/War Bonnet Area
 173
V5 6C Boulder
Green Goblin North-Central A… > … > N Side > N Forty Routes
 590
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Swamp Rat North-Central A… > … > E Side > Cliffs of Insanity
 357
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Hackberry Crack North-Central A… > … > W Side > Walls Of Moria
 181
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Orange Crush North-Central A… > … > E Side > Far East
 414
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Dancing Outlaw North-Central A… > … > N Side > N Forty Routes
 242
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Commodus North-Central A… > … > E Side > Roman Wall
 280
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Learning to Fly North-Central A… > … > W Side > Prophecy Wall
 243
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Crimp Scampi North-Central A… > … > N Side > N Forty Routes
 476
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Horseshoes and Hand Grenades North-Central A… > … > E Side > Far East
 406
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Taliban Soup North-Central A… > … > W Side > Prophecy Wall
 169
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Big Top North-Central A… > … > N Side > N Forty Routes
 204
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Fat Hand North-Central A… > … > N Side > N Forty Routes
 195
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
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