Elevation: 868 ft
GPS: 36.007, -93.188 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Erik Pohlman on Dec 24, 2006 with improvements by Brennan Vandyke and 1 other
Admins: Tyler KC, JD Borgeson

Welcome

Anyone ready for some backwoods climbing. That's right, there ain't no high alpine to be found here. There's just down and dirty backwoods climbing on high-quality sandstone. Though overlooked for a long time by the big names, the locals haven't complained. Over the years they have put up excellent quality natural lines from the classic dihedral Poison Ivy (5.7+) to harder lines such as Titanic (5.11X) and Bear Bait (5.12- S), all at Sam's Throne.

In addition to the classic trad routes, Horseshoe Canyon Ranch hosts a number of excellent quality bolted lines of all difficulties, even up to Sharma's famous "Paying the Rent"(5.14a). The moderate mecca of the Midwest, holding an extremely large concentration of climbing in its domain. An excellent place for those just getting into the sport of climbing, or seasoned veterans, as there is something for everyone at the Ranch. Arguably one of the single best climbing destinations in the whole Midwest.

Other than the famed HCR, Arkansas is on the cusp of it's golden age, with new routes going up by the day, there is something to be found around every corner and the only limitations are access and imagination. If your one for adventure and travelling off the beaten path to find some Southern Sandbagging as well as world class pitches deep within the hills of the Ozarks, it is well worth your time and memories to stray away from the ranch to see what the "Natural State" has to offer.

For a taste of real backwoods climbing in Arkansas, places like the Cowell area or Richland Creek Area offer 4 star climbs in remote settings.

Rescources

The latest guidebooks are as follows.

Arkansas Bouldering



Rock Climbing Arkansas 2nd Edition- Cole Fennel

Rock Climbing Arkansas 2nd Edition

Rock Climbing Horseshoe Canyon- Cole Fennel

HCR Guidebook

If you are climbing in the state chances are you are climbing at/near horseshoe canyon. Jasper is the closest town with amenities. There is a small grocery and some eateries.

Beware, Newton County IS dry, therefor if your looking for a drink, you'll have to drive up to Harrison Arkansas. Best to prepare ahead of time.

Some useful websites are:

HCR

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Classic Climbing Routes at Arkansas

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V4 6B
 101
Le Beak
Boulder
V5 6C
 81
Warbonnet
Boulder
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 395
Green Goblin
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 219
Swamp Rat
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 82
Deft Jam
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 137
Hackberry Crack
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 106
WMA Crack
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 85
Mr. Magoo
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 132
Learning to Fly
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 314
Crimp Scampi
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 258
Horseshoes and Hand Grenades
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 140
Big Top
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 98
Taliban soup
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 79
Boronocus
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 116
Fat Hand
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Le Beak Cowell/Deer Area > Fountain Red
 101
V4 6B Boulder
Warbonnet Horseshoe Canyo… > Idaho Boulders > Crescent Area
 81
V5 6C Boulder
Green Goblin Horseshoe Canyo… > N Forty
 395
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Swamp Rat Horseshoe Canyo… > Cliffs of Insanity
 219
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Deft Jam Horseshoe Canyo… > Confederate Cracks
 82
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Hackberry Crack Horseshoe Canyo… > Walls Of Moria
 137
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
WMA Crack Horseshoe Canyo… > Confederate Cracks
 106
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Mr. Magoo Horseshoe Canyo… > Mr. Magoo Rock
 85
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Learning to Fly Horseshoe Canyo… > Prophecy Wall
 132
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Crimp Scampi Horseshoe Canyo… > N Forty
 314
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Horseshoes and Hand Grenades Horseshoe Canyo… > Far East
 258
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Big Top Horseshoe Canyo… > N Forty
 140
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Taliban soup Horseshoe Canyo… > Prophecy Wall
 98
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Boronocus Horseshoe Canyo… > Roman Wall
 79
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Fat Hand Horseshoe Canyo… > N Forty
 116
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Arkansas »

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