|GPS:||36.007, -93.188 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Erik Pohlman on Dec 24, 2006|
WelcomeAnyone ready for some backwoods climbing. That's right, there ain't no high alpine to be found here. There's just down and dirty backwoods climbing on high-quality sandstone. Though overlooked for a long time by the big names, the locals haven't complained. Over the years they have put up excellent quality natural lines from the classic dihedral Poison Ivy (5.7+) to harder lines such as Titanic (5.11X) and Bear Bait (5.12- S), all at Sam's Throne.
In addition to the classic trad routes, Horseshoe Canyon Ranch hosts a number of excellent quality bolted lines of all difficulties, even up to Sharma's famous "Paying the Rent"(5.14a). The moderate mecca of the Midwest, holding an extremely large concentration of climbing in its domain. An excellent place for those just getting into the sport of climbing, or seasoned veterans, as there is something for everyone at the Ranch. Arguably one of the single best climbing destination in the whole Midwest.
Other than the famed HCR, Arkansas is on the cusp of it's golden age, with new routes going up by the day, there is something to be found around every corner and the only limitations are access and imagination. If your one for adventure and travelling off the beaten path to find some Southern Sandbagging as well as world class pitches deep within the hills of the Ozarks, it is well worth your time and memories to stray away from the ranch to see what the "Natural State" has to offer.
For a taste of real backwoods climbing in Arkansas, places like the Cowell area or Prohibition/Rock Creek Area offer 4 star climbs in remote settings.
RescourcesThe latest guidebooks are as follows.
Rock Climbing Arkansas 2nd Edition- Cole Fennel
Rock Climbing Horseshoe Canyon- Cole Fennel
If you are climbing in the state chances are you are climbing at/near horseshoe canyon. Jasper is the closest town with amenities. There is a small grocery and some eateries.
Beware, Newton County IS dry, therefor if your looking for a drink, you'll have to drive up to Harrison Arkansas. Best to prepare ahead of time.
Some useful websites are:
Classic Climbing Routes at Arkansas
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season