Elevation: 868 ft
GPS: 36.0069, -93.18813
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Shared By: Erik Pohlman on Dec 24, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Tyler KC, JD Borgeson

Welcome

Anyone ready for some backwoods climbing? That's right, there ain't no high alpine to be found here. There's just down and dirty backwoods climbing on high-quality sandstone. Though overlooked for a long time by the big names, the locals haven't complained. Over the years they have put up excellent quality natural lines from the classic dihedral Poison Ivy (5.7+) to harder lines such as Titanic (5.11X) and Bear Bait (5.12- S), all at Sam's Throne.

In addition to the classic trad routes, Horseshoe Canyon Ranch hosts a number of excellent quality bolted lines of all difficulties, even up to Sharma's famous "Paying the Rent"(5.14a). It's the  moderate mecca of the Midwest, holding an extremely large concentration of climbing in its domain. An excellent place for those just getting into the sport of climbing, or seasoned veterans, as there is something for everyone at the Ranch. Arguably one of the single best climbing destinations in the whole Midwest.

Other than the famed HCR, Arkansas is on the cusp of its golden age, with new routes going up by the day - there is something to be found around every corner, and the only limitations are access and imagination. If you're one for adventure and travelling off the beaten path to find some Southern Sandbagging, or looking for world-class pitches deep within the hills of the Ozarks, it is well worth your time and memories to stray away from the ranch to see what the "Natural State" has to offer.

For a taste of real backwoods climbing in Arkansas, places like the Cowell area or Richland Creek Area offer 4 star climbs in remote settings.

Rescources

The latest guidebooks are as follows.

Arkansas Bouldering



Rock Climbing Arkansas 2nd Edition- Cole Fennel

Rock Climbing Arkansas 2nd Edition

If you are climbing in the state chances are you are climbing at/near horseshoe canyon. Jasper is the closest town with amenities. There is a small grocery and some eateries.

Beware, Newton County IS dry, therefor if your looking for a drink, you'll have to drive up to Harrison Arkansas. Best to prepare ahead of time.

Some useful websites are:

HCR
Fern Area

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Classic Climbing Routes at Arkansas

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V3 6A
 77
Old English
Boulder
V4 6B
 152
Le Beak
Boulder
V4 6B
 207
Dig Dug
Boulder
V5 6C
 137
Warbonnet
Boulder
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 159
Hackberry Crack
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 129
WMA Crack
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 202
Learning to Fly
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 419
Crimp Scampi
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 356
Horseshoes and Hand Grenades
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 85
Dead Dog
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 149
Taliban Soup
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 93
Boronocus
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 180
Big Top
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 98
Mine Mine Mine
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 171
Fat Hand
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Old English North-Central A… > … > Idaho Boulders > Warm-Up Boulder
 77
V3 6A Boulder
Le Beak North-Central A… > … > Cowell > Font Red
 152
V4 6B Boulder
Dig Dug North-Central A… > … > Idaho Boulders > Loaf Boulder
 207
V4 6B Boulder
Warbonnet North-Central A… > … > Idaho Boulders > Crescent/War Bonnet Area
 137
V5 6C Boulder
Hackberry Crack North-Central A… > … > W Side > Walls Of Moria
 159
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
WMA Crack North-Central A… > … > W Side > Confederate Cracks
 129
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Learning to Fly North-Central A… > … > W Side > Prophecy Wall
 202
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Crimp Scampi North-Central A… > … > N Side > N Forty Routes
 419
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Horseshoes and Hand Grenades North-Central A… > … > E Side > Far East
 356
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Dead Dog North-Central A… > … > 4. E Main Bluff > Dead Dog & Energamata…
 85
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Taliban Soup North-Central A… > … > W Side > Prophecy Wall
 149
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Boronocus North-Central A… > … > E Side > Roman Wall
 93
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Big Top North-Central A… > … > N Side > N Forty Routes
 180
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Mine Mine Mine North-Central A… > … > N Side > N Forty Routes
 98
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Fat Hand North-Central A… > … > N Side > N Forty Routes
 171
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
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