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Areas in Horseshoe Canyon Ranch

Arcade, The 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Black Cave 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Cliffs of Insanity 1 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Colossus Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Confederate Cracks 9 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18
Crackhouse Alley 5 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Doomsday Wall, The 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Far East, The 8 / 22 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 29
Goat Cave 1 / 11 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Green Room 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Idaho Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 50 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 50
Land Beyond Boulders, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Land Beyond, The 0 / 19 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
Land of the Lost 1 / 9 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Lost Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Mexican Pillar 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Middle East 10 / 18 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 35
Mr. Magoo Rock 0 / 9 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Mullet Buttress 0 / 7 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
New Roman Wall 3 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
North Forty Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 35 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 35
North Forty, The 39 / 106 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 144
Prophecy Wall 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Ren and Stimpy 1 / 14 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
Roman Wall 2 / 14 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Sloping Joe Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Street Fighter Wall 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Titanic Boulder 2 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Titanic Wall 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Undertow Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Walls Of Moria 4 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Elevation: 1,787 ft
GPS: 36.012, -93.292 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 355,405 total, 2,670/month
Shared By: sam davidson on Dec 30, 2006 with updates
Admins: TylerKC

Description

Horseshoe Canyon Ranch (HCR) offers some of the finest sandstone in Arkansas with nearly 420 routes ranging from 5.5 to 5.14. The majority of the routes are fully bolted sport climbs, but there are also many fine trad routes and a plethora of good boulder problems. The cracks at the Ranch are some of the best in Arkansas and will challenge even the saltiest of crack masters.

Surreal sandstone climbing in a spectacular setting with all the amenities of a four-star dude ranch make this one of the most unique and enjoyable crags you will ever visit.

The Buffalo River is on the other side of 74 hwy. Hit the BRT, a 40 mile hiking trail. Ponca offers rentals of kayak, canoe, and rafts, or bring your own and float the Buffalo - one of the only pristine rivers in a national park not crowded with houses and other nonsense. There are cliffs along the Buffalo that beg to be climbed, so bring your synthetic shoes.

Camping is $5 per night, climbing is $10 per day. Restrooms, sinks, and token showers were added in 2012, making this a great base for multi-day excursions. Sign in at the Trading Post and check out the gear.

Getting There and Guidebook Information

HCR is located approximately 7.0 miles west of Jasper and 6.5 miles east of Ponca on the south side of State Highway 74. Jasper is approximately 25 miles south of Harrison and 65 miles north of Russellville on Scenic State Highway 7.

A NEW (2013) full color guidebook for the area is available for mail order and immediate eBook download at www.bostonmountainpress.com.

The 200 page guidebook is full color throughout and provides complete information on all of the over 420 sport and crack climbs. Also featured is a comprehensive and updated look at nearly 250 boulder problems on the ranch. All route and problem information is color coded by rating.

538 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

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Classic Climbing Routes at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cotton Candy
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Goblin
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
African Herbman
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The Greatest Show on Earth
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swamp Rat
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hackberry Crack
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
First Normal Form
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Orange Crush
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Man Servant
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Private Property
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Season of the Storm
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Commodus
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crimp Scampi
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sonny Jim
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Horseshoes and Hand Grenades
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cotton Candy N Forty 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Green Goblin N Forty 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
African Herbman N Forty 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Greatest Show on Earth N Forty 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Swamp Rat Cliffs of Insanity 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Hackberry Crack Walls Of Moria 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
First Normal Form N Forty 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Orange Crush Far East 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Man Servant Mr. Magoo Rock 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Private Property N Forty 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Season of the Storm N Forty 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Commodus Roman Wall 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Crimp Scampi N Forty 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Sonny Jim N Forty 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Horseshoes and Hand Grenades Far East 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Horseshoe Canyon Ranch »

Weather Averages

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Photos

Interesting - I was vaguely aware that Arkansas existed and now it seems it has good climbing!

Question to locals: would you drive 30 hours to get to that crag for about 7-10 days, if it wasn't that close to home? I'm from the eastern Canada. Usually go to Red River & the likes up east that are closer, but then it's always fun to discover new areas... Follow-up question: would you drive 30 hrs to go to Red River for that amount of time (or alternatively, what location would be awesome enough you drive 30 hrs to for 7-10 days of climbing)?

EDIT: mostly interested in sport, 11-12 maybe easy 13, perhaps easy trad now & then.... 9 hours ago
Mark Orsag
Omaha, NE
Mark Orsag   Omaha, NE
Second what Chase said. HCR is an awesome place to climb, but July and August would be a perfectly miserable time to climb there. Try something up north like the Mt. Rushmore/Custer State Park combo in South Dakota instead at that time of year.

Mark O Jan 13, 2017
Chase Webb
Little Rock, AR
Chase Webb   Little Rock, AR
Mike, if you have the whole month of July to climb, I would suggest going somewhere a little cooler and less humid. It is certainly possible to climb in July but IMO your time would be much better spent elsewhere! Jan 12, 2017
mike varlotta
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
mike varlotta   Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
I have the month of July to climb around the midwest. We will be climbing from MI down to OK and possibly TX. Do people climb at Horeshoe in the summer? I am guessing that is probably the worst time of the year, but it's when i have the time off so if i want to get on AR rock I'm going to have to make due. With good beta about chasing shade is it possible to have a decent several day trip in July? Or is it simply not worth it? If anyone can share even better summer destinations throughout the midwest, please do. Jan 12, 2017
If you plan on camping and climbing here expect to pay $15 a day for one person. Not what the books says. It's $5 for camping and $10 for a day pass of climbing.

  • Also if you're climbing on the DMM permadraws from the 24HHH be careful. They are aluminum draws that got a lot of use from the comp and general climbing season. Was there this past weekend and found some scary sharp draws on well traveled routes. I highly recommend inspecting any DMM permadraws you clip into. Told the staff there and hopefully they replace them/keep an eye on them.
Dec 30, 2016
FYI: The climbing fee has increased to $10/day Oct 11, 2016
Luc Ried
Batesville, AR
Luc Ried   Batesville, AR
Conditions in Arkansas are never really predictable, you may have a week with no rain, or you may have a week of nothing but rain. There are areas in horseshoe that you can climb if it does happen to rain, and I highly recommend a trip. December is the best month of the year for climbing here. Have a good trip and stay safe! Aug 21, 2016
Mark Orsag
Omaha, NE
Mark Orsag   Omaha, NE
Yeah, it can be a bit iffy (and colder than you might think as well) down there at that time. But if the weather is decent, the conditions can be really good for sending harder routes or problems. That is when a lot of the really strong boulderers, in particular, show up there-- or at least that is my understanding. I personally have climbed at HCR in November but not December. Aug 21, 2016
Cassidy Thomas
Salt Lake City, UT
Cassidy Thomas   Salt Lake City, UT
How is the weather in December? My friends and I are looking to do a Christmas break climbing trip to somewhere we've never been before (we're all from the Northwest). I've heard of this area before but I'm just a little worried it might be rainy in the winter. Any advice? Aug 20, 2016
Mark Orsag
Omaha, NE
Mark Orsag   Omaha, NE
Great place for safe sport climbing-- beginner , intermediate, advanced, and near world-class (with one world class route). Usually very well-protected climbing. More three-star climbs than you can imagine! May 14, 2016
Any locals have info on current conditions at HCR? We're looking at possibly a couple of days there early next week. Not sure if the heavy weather that hit MS & LA affected the area or not. Mar 17, 2016
How long does the area stay wet after rain? Looking to spend weekend bouldering and looks like rain the day before. Nov 2, 2015
Luc Ried
Batesville, AR
Luc Ried   Batesville, AR
Poison ivy is pretty bad on secondary and tertiary trails, most main trails are pretty clear, just watch your step Apr 28, 2015
Anyone know how the poison ivy is this time of year? Just want to make sure its not growing over the trails before I make the trek out there. Apr 27, 2015
@RayTay - The reason guides (and everybody else) is doing it is because it's pretty much up to you to decide what you want to do! The way I understand it, because you pay to climb and the ranch is maintained by very diligent people, in addition to the high quantity of climbers that come through the ranch anyway, the gear is replaced accordingly. This is not the ethic in the rest of the state, and rarely anywhere else in the country. If it's just one run, I usually use the rings. More than a few and I still use my own gear, just out of habit. Apr 14, 2015
24HHH is going to be awesome this year, but it may take a little luck to get in new registration rules Mar 27, 2015
What are the camping and climbing fees these days at the ranch? And is there any place to free car camp close by? Dec 30, 2014
I was at hcr this past weekend and was really surprised to see how common TRing thru the rap rings was...even the guides were doing it. Anybody know why it's being taught this way? Obviously makes cleaning easier but really wears the rings down Dec 1, 2014
@Siberia, you can occasionally find people in the middle of the week, but HCR's busy days are usually just the weekend, with some people climbing on Friday or Monday as well. I wouldn't count on it being too populated during the week.

@Alan Moles, weather for the summer is pretty typical for Arkansas summers - hot and humid. Shade is almost a requirement if you want to get on a climb and there are areas with plenty of it, but occasional cool weekends (i.e., under 85-90 highs) do happen. Bugs include ticks, chiggers, mosquitoes, and lots of other bugs that don't really do anything but annoy you. The Buffalo National River is 15 minutes away, with some DWS and good swimming. Closest free camping that is not secret is Sam's Throne, around 30-45 minutes away. You may be able to find some free camping along the Buffalo, but please remember that much of the land in this area is private. Aug 4, 2014
How is the weather for the summer? Is there a bad bug problem? Are there any good swimming holes nearby(creeks, rivers, lakes,etc.? Is there any free van camping nearby? Jun 23, 2014
Siberia
Birmingham, AL
Siberia   Birmingham, AL
I'm looking at spending several days at HCR in November of this year. What are my odds of finding a group to climb with during the week days? May 19, 2014
Dan, there are no climbs that you can set a top rope for (without leading, at least that I'm aware of) mainly because the crags are approached from below, and the land above is mostly owned by somebody else (I think). However, if you have never done any lead climbing, HCR is a fantastic place to get some practice in and feel very comfortable...There are numerous routes in the 5.6-8 range on huge holds that I have seen inexperienced climbers fly up. There is also a large boulder in the 40 with anchor bolts for practicing cleaning/rapping. If you're unfamiliar with the techniques, there are always lots of people on the weekend who are friendly and willing to teach a climber a thing or two. Jan 15, 2014
Dan Cooksey
Seattle, WA
Dan Cooksey   Seattle, WA
Hey guys and gals.

looking to visit for the first week of March. Never been to the area and are fairly new to climbing(little over a year). We boulder 3 days a week and have pads, we also have ropes and usually set our own top ropes. My main question is, are there climbs with bolts that you can set a top rope without leading? neither of us have got into leading yet. Thanks for the info in advance. Jan 7, 2014
Raj, I just got back from HCR and outside dogs are still not allowed. They could interfere with the working dogs on the ranch. If you are lucky Chili the ranch crag dog will follow you around and hang out with you at the crag. Oct 12, 2013
Raj Mahal
Houston, TX
Raj Mahal   Houston, TX
DOES ANYONE KNOW IF DOGS ARE NOW ALLOWED OR NOT??

THANK Oct 7, 2013
Raiden
Royal Oak, MI
Raiden   Royal Oak, MI  
There is another new guidebook (2013) that is the official guidebook for 24 hours of horseshoe hell. It breaks up the guidebook with the roped climbing in the first half and the bouldering in the second half.

fixedpin.com/Rock_Climbing_… Oct 4, 2013
KMo
KMo  
What's the best airport option in the area? Aug 24, 2013
Hey SteveBSU,

It is $5 to climb and $5 to camp. So, $10 a day to climb and camp. Not sure about the weather. Dec 18, 2012
SteveBSU
Muncie, IN
SteveBSU   Muncie, IN
If weather is sunny here, would it be climbable next week? and if its off season, is there still a price? also is it $5 dollars to climb and camp or just climb? Dec 11, 2012
FREDDY GOSSMAN
Casper, Wyoming
FREDDY GOSSMAN   Casper, Wyoming
Is it good enough climbing weather in march april to justify driving out from Wyoming?? Nov 3, 2012
Lee,

We were there a few weeks ago. You can camp at HCR for $5 a night (I think) and I believe they now have showers/toilets.

We stayed at Dogwood Springs a few times while climbing at HCR, its in Jasper. I like it because they have electricity at the campsites and a pool, which is great if you want to climb in the summer. Pretty sure its more like $20 a night. Jul 17, 2012
Does anyone know what the status of camping at the Ranch and/or close by is? Any inoformation you have regarding fees would be very helpful. Jul 11, 2012
Hey anyone want to climbing at Horsehoe this sunday? Apr 27, 2012
Jason Young
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Young   Los Alamos, NM
This area is well worth the $5 fee. There are hundreds of routes on superb stone. The bolt jobs are excellent with bomber hardware. It looks like glue-ins might be the new standard for the area. The bouldering looks amazing, and there's tons of it too. The setting is pretty amazing too. It is a true ranch with horses, cattle, goats, pigs, dogs, and cowboys.

I was just there last week. The weather was unseasonably warm, but quite nice. We did see about a dozen ticks during the two days we climbed there though.

P.S. Chili is a sweet dog, and the people who run the place were very friendly!

Don't forget to check out the Buffalo River while your there. The cliffs we saw on the stretch between Steel Creek and Kyle's Landing were AMAZING (they looked like a mini Verdon). The fishing was good too. There are some lunker bass in there as well as some trout and a ton of crappie. Oh yeah, I saw a couple of good spots for some DWS also (the water was quite warm for a river)! Apr 8, 2012
You always have to pay, assuming you want the Ranch to stay open to climbing. It's $5 a day for the best sport climbing within a ten hour drive. You can afford it. Feb 17, 2012
SteveBSU
Muncie, IN
SteveBSU   Muncie, IN
Does anyone know if you can climb for free in this area or do you always have to pay? Jan 11, 2012
ssimonson09
Gladstone, OR
ssimonson09   Gladstone, OR
Peter,

February Temps can be decent depending on how things shake out and how late in February you go. It'll probably be getting up to the mid to upper 40's maybe almost the 50's in the day and at night it'll drop down to below freezing. Again, this really depends on the year though, I think the ice storm that ripped through there a few years ago was in late January early February, so it really just depends.

Generally speaking though HCR is a great winter destination as you can just chase the sun around the canyon for the best temps. Dec 14, 2011
Peter Dodge
Duluth, MN
Peter Dodge   Duluth, MN
What is the climbing like in February? Temps? Nov 27, 2011
Nate Moore
On the road
Nate Moore   On the road
ferrells, Horseshoe doesn't really have any hard cracks. Classique and I Fought Piranhas are probably two of the hardest i can think of. If you want harder crack you will have to check out some other crags. Jan 30, 2011
Could someone tell me where the 'cracks that will test even the saltiest' are? Just Starboard List? Are there any (other) cracks here that are really good, above 5.10? Jan 28, 2011
This is one of the best places I have ever been to, to bring new climbers. TONS of easy and moderate climbs with forgiving rests and holds. Not too tall either. In addition there are classic 5.8's next to classic 5.12's so the experienced climber can belay the newbie, take a few steps and work a project.

Tip: Bring you own TP for the pit toilets and DON'T PET THE BIG DOGS! They have a job to do. Mar 30, 2010
Kevin D
Phoenix, AZ
Kevin D   Phoenix, AZ
Sign Posted: Dogs no longer allowed as of Jan 1 2010 Mar 22, 2010

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