East Side Climbing
Areas in East Side
Cliffs of Insanity
4 /
12 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
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16
East Side Boulders
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0 /
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3 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
3
Fading Light Boulders
0 /
0 /
0 /
9 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
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9
Far East, The
8 /
27 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
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34
Goat Cave
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12 /
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4 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
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16
Land of the Lost
1 /
16 /
1 /
2 /
0 /
0 /
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19
Lost Boulders
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1 /
0 /
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1
Lower Eastside
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1 /
0 /
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1
Magoo Rock
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9 /
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1 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
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10
Mexican Pillar
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4 /
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0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
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4
Middle East
9 /
26 /
1 /
13 /
0 /
0 /
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48
Mullet Buttress
1 /
9 /
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2 /
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12
New Meadow
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3 /
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3
New Roman Wall
3 /
5 /
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8
Roman Wall
2 /
13 /
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15
Sloping Joe Boulder
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10 /
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10
Undertow Boulder
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6 /
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6
Wall of Calamity
1 /
2 /
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3
Warthog Wall
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3 /
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3
Wrangler wall
2 /
7 /
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9
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Elevation: | 1,874 ft | 571 m |
GPS: |
36.0067, -93.28711 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
|
Page Views: | 86,635 total · 1,973/month | |
Shared By: | JD Borgeson on Apr 29, 2021 | |
Admins: | Tyler KC, JD Borgeson |
Description
Long, west-facing crag on the east side of the canyon. The most visible walls from the outpost and surrounding (especially now, post-deforestation). Routes tend to be longer, with a few steep classics and tech masterpieces. Good bouldering, though it tends to be spreadout.
Getting There
Park at the outpost and walk across the valley and uphill forever. The trail you choose will depend on the crag you want to approach. There is alternate parking for the Goat Cave/Sloping Joe/Undertow boulder up the road (North) from the outpost at the top of the switchbacks somewhat near the gate.
Classic Climbing Routes at East Side
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Route Name | Location | Star Rating | Difficulty | Date |
---|---|---|---|---|
● Hang Ten (aka Undertow Dire… | Undertow Boulder |
|
V7 7A+ Boulder | |
● Jeff's Prow | Middle East > Middle E Bouldering |
|
V9- 7C Boulder | |
● Swamp Rat | Cliffs of Insanity |
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport | |
● First Time Up | Far East |
|
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad | |
● Orange Crush | Far East |
|
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport | |
● Man Servant | Magoo Rock |
|
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport | |
● Commodus | Roman Wall |
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport | |
● Knock Knock | Far East |
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport | |
● Mr. Magoo | Magoo Rock |
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport | |
● Horseshoes and Hand Grenades | Far East |
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport | |
● King Kong | Far East |
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport | |
● Boronocus | Roman Wall |
|
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport | |
● Purple Nehi | Far East |
|
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport | |
● Maximus | Roman Wall |
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport 2 pitches | |
● Supersoul Sureshot | Far East |
|
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport |
Weather Averages
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Prime Climbing Season
J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D |
J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D |
Photos
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Guidebooks (6)
Featured Guidebooks:
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch Arkansas Rock Climbing
Frisbie, 2013, Boston Mount…
Clay Frisbie's guide to Horseshoe Canyon Ranch
Rock Climbing Horseshoe Canyon
Fennel, 2018, Natural State…
Fennel's latest Horseshoe Guide. Also the official guide for Horseshoe Hell.
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