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Routes in The Far East

Alesia T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Bury the Boot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cowgirl Up S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
El Chupacabra S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Emotional Content S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Farrier, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Filthy Sanchez S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
First Time Up T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Full Yellow Jacket S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gracie's Eight S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Happy Camper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horseshoes and Hand Grenades S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
King Kong S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kinky Boots S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Manked T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Montezuma's Revenge T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Montezuma's Toe S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orange Crush S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pieces of Eight S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pills on an Empty Stomach T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Plumb Bob S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Purple Nehi S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Recidivist S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
September Hero S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Space Monkey S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spine Tingler S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Supersoul Sureshot S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tuff Gong S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Vodka Diet, The T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,125 total, 17/month
Shared By: Andrew Tower on Jul 4, 2007 with updates
Admins: TylerKC

You & This Route


42 Opinions

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Description

The offwidth crack/flake system that climbs out of the dihedral near the left end of the Far East wall (right of Kinky Boots). It eats up big gear in the #3 to #5 sizes. Long runners are a good idea.

Great flake, good rock and good pro everywhere except a short stretch in the middle.

Protection

SR including a few #2-#4 cams, and possibly bigger.
Andrew Smith
Dallas, TX
Andrew Smith   Dallas, TX
I only was able to get 1/2 on lead, super difficult for me to place gear at the crux. Seemed harder to me than a 5.8+, but crack climbing definitely is not my strong suite. Hopefully next time I will be able to get it on lead. Bring large gear, 1 #2, 3 #3's, 2 #4's, and maybe some large hexes (if that's your thing). Jul 23, 2017
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
Prettier (and less burly) than it looks from the ground!

I used two #3s and two #4s, and had to think a little about where I wanted to leave what. I also used a large nut. Nov 8, 2016
David Germer
Omaha, Nebraska
 
David Germer   Omaha, Nebraska
 
Can be climbed with a single #4, a #6 is overkill. Bring multiple #3s if you want to sew it up! Dec 6, 2014
Andrew Sellers
Dallas, TX
  5.9-
Andrew Sellers   Dallas, TX
  5.9-
Recommend a C4 #6 in the middle corner, runout the crux, and protect up by the jug shaped like an L, if you get tired, you can sling your rope there while you protect. A double arm bar will provide a great rest at the offwidth section. May 30, 2012
michaeltarne  
 
First Time Up is a great route, uses big gear almost the whole way- I never placed anything smaller than a BD#2. Great flake, good rock and good pro everywhere except a short stretch in the middle. Mar 4, 2012
Scott Strong
Dallas, TX
 
Scott Strong   Dallas, TX
 
The guidebook says standard rack, doubles #2-4. From the bottom the top half looked protectable with #2s but I found that it really requires mostly 3s and 4s to protect the climb. Long runners are a good idea too. May 30, 2011