Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Far East

Alesia T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Bats In The Cracks S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bury the Boot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cowgirl Up S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
El Chupacabra S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Emotional Content S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Farrier, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Filthy Sanchez S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
First Time Up T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Full Yellow Jacket S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gracie's Eight S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Happy Camper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horseshoes and Hand Grenades S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
King Kong S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kinky Boots S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Manked T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Montezuma's Revenge T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Montezuma's Toe S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orange Crush S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pieces of Eight S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pills on an Empty Stomach T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Plumb Bob S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Purple Nehi S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Recidivist S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
September Hero S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Space Monkey S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spine Tingler S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Supersoul Sureshot S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tuff Gong S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Vodka Diet, The T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Clay Frisbie
Page Views: 11,159 total · 83/month
Shared By: Elijah Flenner on Sep 16, 2007
Admins: TylerKC

You & This Route


199 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A great climb on great rock. The crux starts at the second bolt and the climbing slowly gets easier as one gets higher.

Location

The third bolted climb from the left side of The Far East. Just to the right of of the shallow dihedral called The Farrier.

Protection

Eight bolts to a two bolt anchor.
Andy Chasteen
Oklahoma City, OK
 
Andy Chasteen   Oklahoma City, OK
 
Sweet route. Thin, steep climbing with one long move leads to a little easier terrain and a rest before pulling a bulge (big grips) to easier terrain again, then one slabby move to the chains. Classic route at the Ranch! Jan 25, 2008
Ryan Raef
Texas
  5.11a
Ryan Raef   Texas
  5.11a
A long move begins the crux which doesnt end until after you've clipped the 4th bolt. Beautiful rock. Aug 20, 2009
Tradiban
  5.11a
Tradiban  
  5.11a
The east's version of Crimp Scampi and the better of the two in my opinion. Mar 30, 2010
Brent Butcher
  5.11a
Brent Butcher  
  5.11a
One of the best routes at the ranch. Oct 10, 2011
Big Ears  
 
Best of the grade for the ranch. Mar 18, 2016
Jcburgart  
 
Excellent for anyone's first 11a. Dec 24, 2017
Zane Winter
Kansas City, MO
 
Zane Winter   Kansas City, MO
 
Get on Purple Nehi after you do this one! Apr 17, 2018
Noah Mendez  
 
AMAZING route. Hard crimping, delicate balancing moves, dead points, and a short jug bash session. The first half of the route, and last moves to clip the chains were definitely some of the most memorable climbing in the canyon for our group. This route felt far easier than the classic crimp scampi across the canyon and had far more memorable moves in my group's opinion. I think its spot on for the grade as far as the horseshoe canyon area goes, be prepared for a much harder fight to climb crimp scampi across the canyon. May 17, 2018
Colin Brochard
Austin
  5.11a
Colin Brochard   Austin
  5.11a
About 2 bolts worth of thoughtful crux moves then fun jugs to the top! Aug 20, 2018

More About Horseshoes and Hand Grenades

Printer-Friendly