Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Clay Frisbie
Page Views: 11,764 total · 85/month
Shared By: Elijah Flenner on Sep 16, 2007
Admins: TylerKC

You & This Route


211 Opinions

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Description

A great climb on great rock. The crux starts at the second bolt and the climbing slowly gets easier as one gets higher.

Location

The third bolted climb from the left side of The Far East. Just to the right of of the shallow dihedral called The Farrier.

Protection

Eight bolts to a two bolt anchor.
Andy Chasteen
Oklahoma City, OK
 
Andy Chasteen   Oklahoma City, OK
 
Sweet route. Thin, steep climbing with one long move leads to a little easier terrain and a rest before pulling a bulge (big grips) to easier terrain again, then one slabby move to the chains. Classic route at the Ranch! Jan 25, 2008
Ryan Raef
Texas
  5.11a
Ryan Raef   Texas
  5.11a
A long move begins the crux which doesnt end until after you've clipped the 4th bolt. Beautiful rock. Aug 20, 2009
Tradiban
  5.11a
Tradiban  
  5.11a
The east's version of Crimp Scampi and the better of the two in my opinion. Mar 30, 2010
Brent Butcher
  5.11a
Brent Butcher  
  5.11a
One of the best routes at the ranch. Oct 10, 2011
Big Ears  
 
Best of the grade for the ranch. Mar 18, 2016
Jcburgart  
 
Excellent for anyone's first 11a. Dec 24, 2017
Zane Winter
Kansas City, MO
 
Zane Winter   Kansas City, MO
 
Get on Purple Nehi after you do this one! Apr 17, 2018
Noah Mendez
Duluth, MN
 
Noah Mendez   Duluth, MN
 
AMAZING route. Hard crimping, delicate balancing moves, dead points, and a short jug bash session. The first half of the route, and last moves to clip the chains were definitely some of the most memorable climbing in the canyon for our group. This route felt far easier than the classic crimp scampi across the canyon and had far more memorable moves in my group's opinion. I think its spot on for the grade as far as the horseshoe canyon area goes, be prepared for a much harder fight to climb crimp scampi across the canyon. May 17, 2018
Colin Brochard
Austin
  5.11a
Colin Brochard   Austin
  5.11a
About 2 bolts worth of thoughtful crux moves then fun jugs to the top! Aug 20, 2018