Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Chad Watkins (2002)
Page Views: 243 total · 5/month
Shared By: Hendrixson on Jun 1, 2015
Admins: TylerKC

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Climb a moderate, shallow left facing dihedral to obtain a high first bolt. Decipher a mostly moderate sequence through the lower two thirds, taking advantage of ample rests. Near the top pull a couple of hard, thin moves to reach a nice in-cut. Shake out and then climb a sequence of edges and slopers to reach the chains.

I personally found this route to be soft and unsustained for the grade. The fixed draw also struck me as unnecessary due to the solid clipping stance. Perhaps it is useful for shorter climbers? I prefer Elephant Ear which is the same style and grade.

Location

The middle of three routes around the corner from Horseshoes and Hand Grenades. This route starts by climbing a shallow left facing dihedral and is opposite a tree.

Protection

7 bolts, the last of which is fixed; anchor.

Photos

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Julius Beres
Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Julius Beres   Boulder, CO
  5.11b
The top was covered in lichen. There is a bolt just below the one with the chain (it wasn't a fixed draw, but rather a chain with an oval on the end). The chain seems unnecessary, especially considering the spacing of the first 2 bolts (if you are willing to take that fall, you should be OK to step up and clip without the chain). Overall, a pretty pour route compared to others in the area, but a very soft tick for the grade. Oct 29, 2018