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Routes in The Far East

Alesia T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Bury the Boot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cowgirl Up S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
El Chupacabra S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Emotional Content S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Farrier, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Filthy Sanchez S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
First Time Up T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Full Yellow Jacket S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gracie's Eight S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Happy Camper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horseshoes and Hand Grenades S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
King Kong S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kinky Boots S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Manked T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Montezuma's Revenge T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Montezuma's Toe S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orange Crush S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pieces of Eight S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pills on an Empty Stomach T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Plumb Bob S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Purple Nehi S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Recidivist S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
September Hero S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Space Monkey S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spine Tingler S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Supersoul Sureshot S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tuff Gong S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Vodka Diet, The T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Chad Watkins (2002)
Page Views: 120 total, 4/month
Shared By: Hendrixson on Jun 1, 2015
Admins: TylerKC

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Description

Climb a moderate, shallow left facing dihedral to obtain a high first bolt. Decipher a mostly moderate sequence through the lower two thirds, taking advantage of ample rests. Near the top pull a couple of hard, thin moves to reach a nice in-cut. Shake out and then climb a sequence of edges and slopers to reach the chains.

I personally found this route to be soft and unsustained for the grade. The fixed draw also struck me as unnecessary due to the solid clipping stance. Perhaps it is useful for shorter climbers? I prefer Elephant Ear which is the same style and grade.

Location

The middle of three routes around the corner from Horseshoes and Hand Grenades. This route starts by climbing a shallow left facing dihedral and is opposite a tree.

Protection

7 bolts, the last of which is fixed; anchor.

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