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Routes in The Far East

Alesia T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Bury the Boot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cowgirl Up S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
El Chupacabra S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Emotional Content S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Farrier, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Filthy Sanchez S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
First Time Up T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Full Yellow Jacket S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gracie's Eight S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Happy Camper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horseshoes and Hand Grenades S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
King Kong S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kinky Boots S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Manked T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Montezuma's Revenge T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Montezuma's Toe S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orange Crush S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pieces of Eight S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pills on an Empty Stomach T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Plumb Bob S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Purple Nehi S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Recidivist S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
September Hero S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Space Monkey S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spine Tingler S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Supersoul Sureshot S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tuff Gong S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Vodka Diet, The T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Chad Watkins, 2002
Page Views: 718 total, 6/month
Shared By: Erik Pohlman on Mar 2, 2008
Admins: TylerKC

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Description

Climb the arete under the roof and pull over onto lower angled, but still challenging, climbing above. The last 15 feet are easier, as seen from the ground. There are a few ways to pull the roof, but both seem equally as difficult.

The only thing that would make this route better is if it were more sustained and longer.

Location

You'll notice this striking overhanging arete when hiking in and rounding the corner at Horseshoes and Hand Grenades. It is right of the scoop that starts Emotional Content and King Kong.

Protection

6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

BrianLee
Austin, Texas
 
BrianLee   Austin, Texas
 
Don't use the dihederal to the right for a bouldery start for a 12.a Sep 28, 2014
MauryB
Boulder, CO
 
MauryB   Boulder, CO
 
It has become common to start this route in the dihedral to the right of the arete, essentially skipping the first two bolts (particularly by those doing it during the 24 hour comp). If you do this the rating is reduced to a few fun moves of 5.11-, but you do miss out on some neat movement down low on the arete. Oct 5, 2009