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Routes in Mr. Magoo Rock

Charley V6 7A
Flying Daisha, The S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Heavy Stigmatism S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Man Servant S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Memoirs of a Daisha S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mixed Reviews S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Monkeys on Magoo S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Charlie S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mr. Magoo S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Road Hog S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Description

A free standing boulder which is littered with great features and holds some of the largest jugs at the ranch. If you can climb 5.9, you should check out Magoo Rock.

Getting There

Magoo Rock is a free standing boulder on the east side of Horseshoe canyon. It is located west of the Roman wall.

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mr. Magoo Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Mark Orsag
Omaha, NE
Mark Orsag   Omaha, NE
Totally understand that... May 13, 2016
Luc Ried
Batesville, AR
Luc Ried   Batesville, AR
Fair enough Mark, to each their own that's for sure. I just don't want anyone to completely dismiss Magoo for their outing. It's one of my favorite features of the canyon for sure and worth a look! May 13, 2016
Mark Orsag
Omaha, NE
Mark Orsag   Omaha, NE
Luc,

Hmmmh... all I can say is that we looked at the start of 5 routes at the end of a day that had included climbing at the Roman Wall and the Middle East. I'm also 5ft 9in and in my fifties so no jumping... (though arm length is a factor as well). On two of the routes, there were little rock stacks but my hands still weren't even close to where they would have needed to be [the heavily chalked starting holds], same with the third route (except no rock stack). There were two others that we checked out as well-- one did have a heel hook move to start it, but it would have been very, very tough [harder than 10c I'd say though the route was rated 9 something in the guidebook] move because, again, the better holds were, in this case just, out of reach. Finally, found one where I could boulder hop and lean/balance way left to start-- did that one. Had just been climbing lots of 10s and lesser rated routes at Middle East and Roman Wall with zero isues-- a number of those were really good, and there were lots more there to do. When I am back at HCR's East Side in the fall, I'll head to those crags again, and visit Far East for the first time, and give the very height dependent Magoo a miss... to each their own opinion I guess. Magoo, which turned out to be a near total waste of time for me, is the only crag at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch that I haven't loved. May 13, 2016
Luc Ried
Batesville, AR
Luc Ried   Batesville, AR
I have to disagree heavily with the prior comment. At 5'9" I can reach the starting holds on these great lines. Sure, I suppose some heelhook trickery might be warranted in some cases, but these routes are by no means inaccessible to anybody. This rock also houses some of the most fun moderate routes in the canyon, and is well worth a visit, so don't let your height deter you! May 9, 2016
Mark Orsag
Omaha, NE
Mark Orsag   Omaha, NE
Not really a worthwhile crag for shorter climbers--unless they are youngsters with some serious "hops" (with the cut off line being around/over 6ft I'd guess?). This is because a lot of the starts are above air (little caves) or blank vertical walls, and the actual starting bomber jug holds are wayyyyy up there...making the routes essentially inaccessible to shorter folks without some combo of heel hooking, jumping , and campusing. Plenty of other great rock on HCR's East Side at crags like Middle East and the Roman Wall though. May 7, 2016
JBroom
anchorage, alaska
JBroom   anchorage, alaska
All the routes are great - do them all! Makes for a good morning/afternoon of climbing. Jan 18, 2011

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