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Elevation: 1,850 ft 564 m
GPS: 36.0071, -93.2875
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Shared By: CJ Gates on Jul 18, 2008
Admins: Tyler KC, JD Borgeson
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Description Suggest change

You won't find many people climbing in this part of the Canyon. If you do they are probably bouldering since there are only about 4 roped routes here. Tool Buttress offers 3 climbs starting around .11b. Lots of boulders some are very difficult or still projects.

Getting There Suggest change

There are numerous ways of getting here. The best way would be taking the trail that leads to the Roman Wall/Magoo Rock. From the East Campground take the logging road north to the top. The boulders and Tool Buttress will be on your right. There are lots of boulders and lots of underbrush so it may be best to ask the guys at the Trading Post

49 Total Climbs

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Location: Middle East Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Middle East

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V5- 6C
 14
● Electric
Boulder
Middle E Bouldering
V7 7A+
 16
● African Arete
Boulder
Middle E Bouldering
V9- 7C
 58
● Jeff's Prow
Boulder
Middle E Bouldering
V10 7C+
 27
● Flash Gordon
Boulder
Middle E Bouldering
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 17
● Confident Wreck
Sport
Super Slab
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 26
● Meh
Sport
Rosie's Cantina Area
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 21
● Parabola
Sport
Tool Buttress
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 48
● Rosie's Cantina
Sport
Rosie's Cantina Area
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 15
● Maynard's Crossing
Sport
Tool Buttress
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 27
● Ermagerd
Sport
Rosie's Cantina Area
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 15
● Nipple Stimulation
Sport
Nipple Stimulation Al…
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 17
● When Panties Fly
Sport
Tool Buttress
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 11
● The Poo-Choo Train
Sport
Tool Buttress
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 32
● Don't Be A Tool
Sport
Tool Buttress
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 7
● Bum Fight
Sport
Tool Buttress
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Electric Middle E Bouldering
 14
V5- 6C Boulder
● African Arete Middle E Bouldering
 16
V7 7A+ Boulder
● Jeff's Prow Middle E Bouldering
 58
V9- 7C Boulder
● Flash Gordon Middle E Bouldering
 27
V10 7C+ Boulder
● Confident Wreck Super Slab
 17
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Sport
● Meh Rosie's Cantina Area
 26
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
● Parabola Tool Buttress
 21
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
● Rosie's Cantina Rosie's Cantina Area
 48
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Maynard's Crossing Tool Buttress
 15
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Ermagerd Rosie's Cantina Area
 27
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
● Nipple Stimulation Nipple Stimulation Al…
 15
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
● When Panties Fly Tool Buttress
 17
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● The Poo-Choo Train Tool Buttress
 11
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
● Don't Be A Tool Tool Buttress
 32
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Bum Fight Tool Buttress
 7
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
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