Elevation: 1,850 ft
GPS: 36.007, -93.288 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 35,250 total · 226/month
Shared By: CJ Gates on Jul 18, 2008
Admins: Tyler KC, JD Borgeson

Description

You won't find many people climbing in this part of the Canyon. If you do they are probably bouldering since there are only about 4 roped routes here. Tool Buttress offers 3 climbs starting around .11b. Lots of boulders some are very difficult or still projects.

Getting There

There are numerous ways of getting here. The best way would be taking the trail that leads to the Roman Wall/Magoo Rock. From the East Campground take the logging road north to the top. The boulders and Tool Buttress will be on your right. There are lots of boulders and lots of underbrush so it may be best to ask the guys at the Trading Post

43 Total Climbs

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Location: Middle East Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Middle East

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V5- 6C
 8
Electric
Boulder
V9- 7C
 27
Jeff's Prow
Boulder
V10 7C+
 12
Flash Gordon
Boulder
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 9
Confident Wreck
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 14
Parabola
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
Slow Disaster
Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
Beautiful Disaster
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 26
Rosie's Cantina
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 10
Maynard's Crossing
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 21
Ermagerd
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 8
Nipple Stimulation
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 9
When Panties Fly
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 6
The Poo-Choo Train
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 23
Don't Be A Tool
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 7
Bum Fight
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Electric Middle E Bouldering
 8
V5- 6C Boulder
Jeff's Prow Middle E Bouldering
 27
V9- 7C Boulder
Flash Gordon Middle E Bouldering
 12
V10 7C+ Boulder
Confident Wreck Super Slab
 9
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Sport
Parabola Tool Buttress
 14
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Slow Disaster Super Slab
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Beautiful Disaster Super Slab
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Rosie's Cantina Rosie's Cantina Area
 26
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Maynard's Crossing Tool Buttress
 10
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Ermagerd Rosie's Cantina Area
 21
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Nipple Stimulation Nipple Stimulation Al…
 8
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
When Panties Fly Tool Buttress
 9
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
The Poo-Choo Train Tool Buttress
 6
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Don't Be A Tool Tool Buttress
 23
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Bum Fight Tool Buttress
 7
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
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