Type: Sport, 75 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Rich Mcdade
Page Views: 6,286 total · 57/month
Shared By: markoscarmcadam climbs on Apr 13, 2010
Admins: TylerKC

You & This Route


44 Opinions

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Description

Climb Commodus or Spartacus and continue onto the ledge. From here, work big positive holds up and right out the steep prow. At the lip of the roof, make a very strenuous clip or commit to an intimidating dynamic move to a bucket and then clip. Hike your feet up above the roof and traverse left to the anchor.

Protection

11 bolts (4 fixed)

Photos

Brent Butcher
  5.12a
Brent Butcher  
  5.12a
missed the OS but the route was fun and probably the best exposed route at the ranch. Looking forward to going back and getting this one. Oct 2, 2011
Drew Nevius
Oklahoma
  5.12a
Drew Nevius   Oklahoma  
  5.12a
Incredible exposure on this route!!! I tried it at the end of the day and only got through 4-5 of the 6 fixed bolts. I hope to try this one fresh next time. May 5, 2013
Clint Walker ATX
Austin, TX
 
Clint Walker ATX   Austin, TX
 
Awesome route with great exposure and a quick pump. Bolt 5's gate was frozen shut which made that clip extra spicy. It had rained a few days before so if you're attempting this route after a recent rain be aware that bolt 5's gate might be stiff. Apr 13, 2014
Sam Elander
Bullhead City, AZ
 
Sam Elander   Bullhead City, AZ
 
Pump + Exposure. Moves aren't hard really, but it's surprising what a punch this route has. Fantastic Route! Oct 1, 2018
Compared to other routes at horse shoe, I felt this route might be 12b. Didn't seem that much easier than Egyptian Airbus. Love the finishing moves, a must do! Dec 14, 2018