Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 12,920 total · 91/month
Shared By: Adam Peters on Jun 1, 2007
Admins: TylerKC

You & This Route


267 Opinions

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Description

Two cruxes and sustained 10 climbing make this route a must do on the North Forty. Probably the best route of its grade at the Ranch!

Location

On the right side of the North Forty, look for the crowd.

Protection

5 bolts
Tradiban
  5.10+
Tradiban  
  5.10+
Ok route, is it supposed to hit those jugs on the right? Didn't live up to the hype in my opinion. Mar 30, 2010
Jason Young
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10d
Jason Young   Los Alamos, NM
  5.10d
This route is only about 50 feet long. Apr 8, 2012
Lee Collette
  5.11-
Lee Collette  
  5.11-
Climbs harder than Horseshoes and Hand grenades... Polished holds due to popularity make for comitting pulls on small holds. Cruiser route for the solid 5.10 climber. Mar 12, 2013
Fantastic route that lived up to the hype!!!! The "two cruxes" really felt like one really long crux in the middle of good sustained climbing. Apr 22, 2014
Spencer Scott
Kansas City, MO
  5.10d
Spencer Scott   Kansas City, MO
  5.10d
Polished, over rated. Horseshoes and hand grenades is by far more fun and has similar style and difficulty. Mar 26, 2015
Jason Hortin
Chicago, IL
 
Jason Hortin   Chicago, IL
 
As the name implies, it's crimpy... Didn't really enjoy this climb - found 'Private Property' more interesting. Apr 12, 2016
Mike W.
Des Moines, IA
  5.10d
Mike W.   Des Moines, IA
  5.10d
I didn't think any of the holds were too polished, they all felt pretty good. Definitely more sustained than Horseshoes and Hand Grenades. Really fun route! Oct 30, 2017
Jcburgart
  5.10d
Jcburgart  
  5.10d
Varied holds - pinches, undercling options, finger jams, crimps... sustained thoughtful and fun climbing! A must do. Short, but to the top of the cliff. Benchmark 10d for HCR Dec 24, 2017
Noah Mendez
Duluth, MN
  5.11a
Noah Mendez   Duluth, MN
  5.11a
This route felt much more sustained and difficult than the 5.11a Horseshoes and Hand Grenades. I think the grades probably ought to be switched. Most in my party were able to send horseshoes and hand grenades with little difficulty, however crimp scampi tossed many of us off. I think we were all a little underwhelmed with this climb in the end, a great route but didn't live up to the hype for us and felt stiff for the horseshoe canyon area. May 17, 2018