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Routes in Walls Of Moria

Balrog S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Devil's Candy S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Entwash T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fighting Uruk-Hai S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gilgamek Vagina T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gimp and Wheezer S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hackberry Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Solid S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stove Top S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Treebeard T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Unk
Page Views: 7,906 total · 61/month
Shared By: Dave Wise on Nov 16, 2007
Admins: TylerKC

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Description [Suggest Change]

Excellent Hands splitter. Pass a flared section about 15' up, then jam through the crux bulge. Great jams from bottom to top. Only complaint is that it's not longer.

Location [Suggest Change]

Right above the Idaho boulders. Very obvious splitter as seen from the trail--can't miss it. Treebeard is the 5.8 crack around the corner an uphill to the left.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Hands. #2 camalots, one or two #3 camalots. Either a #1 camalot or a mid-large stopper for the top. 2 bolt anchor.

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Chris Prewitt
  5.8
Chris Prewitt  
  5.8
This is a super-fun route. Probably not as hard as WMA who's crux is thin hands, this has a big hands crux. A must do for he gearhead. May 20, 2008
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.9+
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.9+
Great route! Nice sustained 5.9 climbing with a few good rests in between. The view from the top is amazing. Jan 21, 2009
Ignacio
Denver, CO
  5.9+
Ignacio   Denver, CO
  5.9+
So far my favorite trad route at the ranch. As with any crack, the experience varies depending on your hand size, but it felt like a sustained 5.9+ to me past the first 15ft or so. Good practice for cupped hands and elbow jamming. Feb 24, 2012
Super good. However, it feels more solid of a 5.9 if you got smaller hands. Dec 24, 2012
Jason Denley
CO, AK
 
Jason Denley   CO, AK
 
so much fun, must do! Sep 30, 2016
jessie briggs
  5.9
jessie briggs  
  5.9
Hardly any #2s, mostly #3s with a #4 in the wide section. Stop placing shitty cams! Mar 24, 2018

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