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Routes in Walls Of Moria

Balrog S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Devil's Candy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Entwash T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fighting Uruk-Hai S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gilgamek Vagina T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gimp and Wheezer S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hackberry Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Solid S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stove Top S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Treebeard T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,192 total, 28/month
Shared By: Erik Pohlman on Sep 1, 2008
Admins: TylerKC

You & This Route


72 Opinions

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Description

Hand and fist crack, leaning slightly left.

Location

Left around the corner from Hackberry.

Protection

Gear to 4 camalot, 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Mike W.
Des Moines, IA
  5.7
Mike W.   Des Moines, IA
  5.7
Agree with the above posts. Take #3's up this and you'll be happy. Was able to find a spot for a #4 as well but they are not necessary. Feb 10, 2016
This crack accepts mainly 3's the whole way up, save for a .75 placements halfway up. Dont be like me and have to place 3 cams the whole route - definitely had some mildly scary runout due to lack of gear, but was an easy climb overall. Tiny bit awkward at the start due to my hand size Mar 17, 2014
Dakota from North Dakota
Golden, Colorado
 
Dakota from North Dakota   Golden, Colorado
 
Free soloed this route today on sight. Naked. Very fun short crack! Would make for a good practice route for new crack climbers. Jun 28, 2013
Jon Wood
5.8
Jon Wood  
5.8
The old guidebook lists it as a 5.8. I think it's been sandbagged. Definitely a 5.8. Great climb. Kind of a bouldery start, but eases up a bit higher. Takes gear well, a couple of #3's and #4's will get you up the majority of it. Threw a number one in up top to protect the move to the anchors. Good times. Apr 25, 2012
Justin D.A.
  5.8-
Justin D.A.  
  5.8-
Classic! If something this short could be considered to be. Wet and wide in plAces. Mar 27, 2012
Ignacio
Denver, CO
  5.8
Ignacio   Denver, CO
  5.8
The guidebook suggests a 5.7 rating for this route but it felt to me like a solid 5.8, talking to other climbers that sent this one that seems to be the general consensus as well. May 13, 2011