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Routes in Confederate Cracks

Adhesive Love S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chinese Soul Food S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Classique T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Deft Jam T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Door Prize S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fat Bastard S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fool's Gold T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Fought Piranhas T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
In The Crack Or On Your Back T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Knob Creek S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Message to a Hairy Man Back S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mud and The Blood and the Beer, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Seamstress, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Shelob's Lair T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Solid S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
T-Slab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Up your Buttress T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
WMA Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Tom Hancock
Page Views: 1,604 total, 13/month
Shared By: Elijah Flenner on Oct 28, 2007
Admins: TylerKC

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Description

A very fun slab route. The route follows a small seam that rarely produces good holds. However, there is plenty of adaquate holds and good feet. Seems harder than many of the 10a's at the ranch.

Location

On the right hand side of Confederate Cracks area. It is to the right Hackberry Crack. You can see the large roof of Nova Monkey from the route, and it sits just to the right of a large chimney called Shelob's Lair. Look for the shallow seam and two sawed off stumps near the top.

Protection

Five bolts and a two bolt anchor. A sling can be brought for the stump near the top.

Photos

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Daniel Rickert
Dallas, TX
Daniel Rickert   Dallas, TX
Fun route with a devious technical crux at the top. Different than most of the routes at the ranch (slab). Worthwhile to do if you are in the area. Does not get a lot of love in the guidebook, but I thought it was rad. Sep 5, 2016