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Routes in Confederate Cracks

Adhesive Love S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chinese Soul Food S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Classique T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Deft Jam T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Door Prize S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fat Bastard S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fool's Gold T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Fought Piranhas T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
In The Crack Or On Your Back T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Knob Creek S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Message to a Hairy Man Back S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mud and The Blood and the Beer, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Seamstress, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Shelob's Lair T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Solid S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
T-Slab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Up your Buttress T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
WMA Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Kerry Allen 2002
Page Views: 1,426 total, 44/month
Shared By: Creed A on Mar 30, 2015
Admins: TylerKC

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Description

I can't believe this route isn't on Mountain Project! This is a major classic!

The route begins in an easy dihedral with lots of stemming options. After about 20 feet the walls smooth out to form a perfectly blank corner split by a 4-5 inch crack. No faking it. Off width technique is mandatory. Near the top, the crack widens up and you can wiggle inside a pod and cop a rest before continuing to the chains.

Location

A few minutes walk to the right (north) of Hackberry Crack. Walk the trail past the black slabs and past the obvious chimney of GV. Look for the striking wide crack in prefect gray rock.

Protection

I placed one #2, one #4 and two #5 Camelots, and a #4 Helium Friend. You could probably find a #3 Camelot down low. You can place a #6 as well, though I'm not sure it's worth hauling up. This route is equipped with a bolted anchor.

Photos

#3, #3.5, #5, #6
I made sure to tape up my thumbs for stacked teacup jams (a hand jam stacked with fist jam, but keep thumb bent like a teacup handle to make the fist extra wide). Mar 21, 2017
Creed A
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Creed A   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Finally sent this thing, but I changed my vote to 10+. This route is hard! My knees don't fit above the mini-roof making it pretty desperate to reset the stacks. Apr 25, 2016
One of the guidebooks (that calls this route 76) says that routes 74-76 (can't recall the numbers exactly) are in a "hidden" area that you need to pass through a constriction to get to. That is incorrect. That only applies to the first two routes. This one is visible from the trail. Feb 16, 2016
Creed A
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Creed A   Salt Lake City, UT
 
+1 vote for taping ankles. Mine are destroyed! Mar 31, 2015
Bart Kensinger
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Bart Kensinger   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
I think this is the very best crack at Horseshoe Canyon, and as far as Arkansas wide cracks go it's rivaled only by Diet Pepsi at Sam's Throne in beauty and technique. It also stays dry when the rest are wet.

My gear beta: There are places low and high where you can substitute fours or twos, and I was really happy to bring a #6 last time for the top off the wide stuff. If you aren't comfortable with the grade I would bring: 1 #2, 3 #4, 2#5, and 1 #6. You wouldn't need anything else.

I know, I know, there's rules for clean climbing. BUT if no one is looking I would tape my ankles, my hands (for stacks), and wear a kneepad and elbow pad (cheap walmart support stuff works great) on my right side. That way you won't make it slippery with your precious bodily fluids. Your follower will think you're the cat's pajamas :) Mar 31, 2015