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Routes in The North Forty

A Little Moore S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Accident, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Ace in the Hole S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Action Hotdog S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Adult Supervision S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
African Herbman S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Around the Fur S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Auntie Grandmother T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Balooga S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bearded Lady T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Big Top S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Brand New S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bulb, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Caught in the Closet Again S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chica Bonita S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chica Bonito S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Circus Freaks T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Class clown T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Clown Suit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Controversy, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Corn Grinder S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cotton Candy S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Count Chalkula S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cow Killer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cows in the Mist S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crab Louse S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crimp Scampi S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dancing Bears T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Dancing Outlaw S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dos Hermanos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dreadlock Holiday T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
E-Kat S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Earl's Revenge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eighteen Inches S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elephant Man, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Emmas's Got a Mullet S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Faded Memory T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fat Hand S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
First Normal Form S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flashbacks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Frankenberry S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Girth Hitch S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Goldmember S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Great Gracious Grant, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Greatest Show on Earth, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Goblin S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groove Tube T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groovy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guide's Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hangs a Little to the Left S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hardly Spot 'Er T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Harry Butthole Pussy Potter S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Honorary Brave S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horny Goatweed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hurricane, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ides of March, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jackhole S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Jewell Always Smiles S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jewell Says S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Keep "Em Seperated T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kids Stuff T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Kurbcheck S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lamb Chops S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Lampe Land S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lavender Eye S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Left for Dead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Legacy 26 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Leonid S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lion Tamer S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Little Manly Man S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Little Miss Giggles T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Local Hebrew S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Love Slave S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
LoveMember S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Marek's Golden Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mclovin' It S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Meck, Mecke, What's the Difference? S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mefloquine Dreams S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mine Mine Mine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Missing Rack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Molt S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
More Better S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mossy Revelations T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Mr. Hanky S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Narwhal T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
New Karkaras T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Newton County Mentality S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ojos Locos S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Owen's Best Buddy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Paul's Redemption S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Perfect Hair Forever S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Perfect Trifecta, The S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Petrified S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Piratas Putas S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Playing Hooky S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poetry in Goshen T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Poison Ivy Route, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Private Property S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pulp Fiction S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Revenge of the Bat-moth T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roman Says S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Roman's Empire S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Romaniac, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scrambled Eggs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Seaana Says S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Season of the Storm S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Serfs and Lords S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Short Stack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Side Show T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Sin Nombre S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sin Nombre Moore S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slide Show T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smooth Criminal S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Some Moore Better S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Something for CiCi S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Something for E-Kat S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Something for Jewell S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Something for Roman S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sonny Jim S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sonrisa Loco S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sons of the Soil S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sour Girl S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spam S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stiff-Neked Fools T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Strongman S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sundial S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sure Thing T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Swiss Family Pancakes T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Tattoed Lady Direct T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tongue and Groove T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Too Short for the Short Bus S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Towely S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Towely 24HHH Variation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trapeze Artist S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tres Equis S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tunnel Vision S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Uncle Grandfather T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Walker Arkansas Ranger T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wanted Man T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Webster's Part S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Webster's Partner S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zeke's Didge Dance S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Zeppelin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
summer rain S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Tom Hancock
Page Views: 10,902 total, 85/month
Shared By: Elijah Flenner on May 22, 2007
Admins: TylerKC

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Description

Start in a shallow dihedral and climb through a crux at about mid-route and finish on jugs to the top. The climbing is somewhat sustained throughout.

Location

After hiking the trail to the North Forty for a little while, one comes to a brightly colored, undercut and overhanging face. This climb is to the left of the undercut/cave and starts in a shallow dihedral.

Protection

Nine bolts to a two bolt anchor.
Really enjoyed this one. 5.8 is my outdoor lead red point (mostly I'm just too afraid to try a 5.9 on lead) and this was great. Nov 27, 2017
Topher Dietz  
 
Great footing most of the route. Did it in hiking boots due to cold weather but the north forty has great southern exposure so could climb in 5 January 2017. Jan 8, 2017
Jason Hortin  
 
Since it was described as 'the best 5.8 on the planet...' we had to do it. It was fun and a good warmup - would recommend climbing it. Apr 12, 2016
Big Ears  
 
First route i ever climbed 15 or so years ago. Special place in my heart Mar 18, 2016
also did it on gear. top section (crux) is a little run out, but nothing scary if you climb harder than 5.8 Jul 14, 2014
Jon Wood  
 
One of my favorite routes at the ranch. Get on it. Jan 4, 2012
Ignacio
Denver, CO
 
Ignacio   Denver, CO
 
Pretty sustained 5.8, nice moves, great route. May 13, 2011