Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Tom Hancock
Page Views: 12,979 total · 90/month
Shared By: Elijah Flenner on May 22, 2007 with updates from Andrew Krajnik
Admins: TylerKC

You & This Route


329 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Start in a shallow dihedral and climb through a crux at about mid-route and finish on jugs to the top. The climbing is somewhat sustained throughout.

Location

After hiking the trail to the North Forty for a little while, one comes to a brightly colored, undercut and overhanging face. This climb is to the left of the undercut/cave and starts in a shallow dihedral.

Protection

Nine bolts to a two bolt anchor. This route is equipped with parma-draws and a cllippable anchor.  
Ignacio
Denver, CO
 
Ignacio   Denver, CO
 
Pretty sustained 5.8, nice moves, great route. May 13, 2011
Jon Wood  
 
One of my favorite routes at the ranch. Get on it. Jan 4, 2012
JD Borgeson
Little Rock, AR
JD Borgeson   Little Rock, AR
also did it on gear. top section (crux) is a little run out, but nothing scary if you climb harder than 5.8 Jul 14, 2014
Big Ears  
 
First route i ever climbed 15 or so years ago. Special place in my heart Mar 18, 2016
Jason Hortin
Chicago, IL
 
Jason Hortin   Chicago, IL
 
Since it was described as 'the best 5.8 on the planet...' we had to do it. It was fun and a good warmup - would recommend climbing it. Apr 12, 2016
Topher Dietz  
 
Great footing most of the route. Did it in hiking boots due to cold weather but the north forty has great southern exposure so could climb in 5 January 2017. Jan 8, 2017
Jackie Bobackie
Detroit, MI
 
Jackie Bobackie   Detroit, MI
 
Really enjoyed this one. 5.8 is my outdoor lead red point (mostly I'm just too afraid to try a 5.9 on lead) and this was great. Nov 27, 2017
Jcburgart  
 
One of the best 5.8 sport pitches out there. Dec 24, 2017