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Routes in The North Forty

A Little Moore S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Accident, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Ace in the Hole S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Action Hotdog S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Adult Supervision S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
African Herbman S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Around the Fur S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Auntie Grandmother T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Balooga S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bearded Lady T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Big Top S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Brand New S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bulb, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Caught in the Closet Again S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chica Bonita S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chica Bonito S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Circus Freaks T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Class clown T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Clown Suit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Controversy, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Corn Grinder S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cotton Candy S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Count Chalkula S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cow Killer T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cows in the Mist S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crab Louse S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Crimp Scampi S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dancing Bears T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Dancing Outlaw S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dos Hermanos S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dreadlock Holiday T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
E-Kat S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Earl's Revenge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eighteen Inches S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elephant Man, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Emmas's Got a Mullet S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Faded Memory T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fat Grinder S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fat Hand S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
First Normal Form S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flashbacks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Frankenberry S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Girth Hitch S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Goldmember S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Great Gracious Grant, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Greatest Show on Earth, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Goblin S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groove Tube T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groovy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guide's Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hangs a Little to the Left S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hardly Spot 'Er T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Harry Butthole Pussy Potter S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Honorary Brave S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horny Goatweed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hurricane, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ides of March, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jackhole S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jewell Always Smiles S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jewell Says S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Keep "Em Seperated T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kids Stuff T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Kurbcheck S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lamb Chops S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Lampe Land S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lavender Eye S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Left for Dead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Legacy 26 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Leonid S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lion Tamer S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Little Manly Man S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Little Miss Giggles T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Local Hebrew S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Love Slave S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
LoveMember S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Marek's Golden Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mclovin' It S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Meck, Mecke, What's the Difference? S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mefloquine Dreams S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mine Mine Mine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Missing Rack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Molt S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
More Better S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mossy Revelations T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Mr. Hanky S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Narwhal T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
New Karkaras T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Newton County Mentality S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ojos Locos S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Owen's Best Buddy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Paul's Redemption S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Perfect Hair Forever S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Perfect Trifecta, The S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Petrified S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Piratas Putas S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Playing Hooky S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poetry in Goshen T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Poison Ivy Route, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Private Property S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pulp Fiction S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Revenge of the Bat-moth T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roman Says S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Roman's Empire S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Romaniac, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scrambled Eggs S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Seaana Says S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Season of the Storm S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Serfs and Lords S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Short Stack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Side Show T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Sin Nombre S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sin Nombre Moore S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slide Show T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smooth Criminal S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Some Moore Better S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Something for CiCi S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Something for E-Kat S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Something for Jewell S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Something for Roman S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sonny Jim S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sonrisa Loco S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sons of the Soil S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sour Girl S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spam S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stiff-Neked Fools T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Strongman S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sundial S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sure Thing T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Swiss Family Pancakes T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Tattoed Lady Direct T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tongue and Groove T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Too Short for the Short Bus S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Towely S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Towely 24HHH Variation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trapeze Artist S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tres Equis S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tunnel Vision S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Uncle Grandfather T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Walker Arkansas Ranger T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wanted Man T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Webster's Part S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Webster's Partner S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zeke's Didge Dance S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Zeppelin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
summer rain S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Chad Davis
Page Views: 2,415 total · 18/month
Shared By: Elijah Flenner on Jun 12, 2007 with updates from Toph Dawg
Admins: TylerKC

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Description

The start of the route is a very interesting thin crux which is followed by climbing that becomes gradually easier and finishes on jugs at the top.

Location

Located to the right of a black dihedral (Dancing Bears) and to the left of The Greatest Show on Earth. The North Forty trails comes close to an overhanging, undercut wall (Big Top is on that wall). Follow the cliff uphill from the "Big Top Wall" until the base of the cliff starts going downhill again.

Protection

Six bolts to a two bolt fixed anchor.

Photos

Scott Strong
Dallas, TX
Scott Strong   Dallas, TX
One of the key holds between the first and second bolts has a giant X on it indicating not to use it. I'm probably not strong enough to make the move without using the hold or I just wasn't able to figure out the sequence without using the marked hold. Jan 17, 2011
Dan M.
5.10a
Dan M.  
5.10a
Very fun route! Sep 16, 2013
Dan M.
5.10a
Dan M.  
5.10a
Also, the route has been upgraded to a 5.10a in the altest guidebook. Sep 16, 2013
JD Borgeson  
 
another ranch favorite! May 15, 2014

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