Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Chad Watkins 2002
Page Views: 3,056 total · 25/month
Shared By: Erik Pohlman on Nov 4, 2008
Admins: TylerKC

You & This Route


37 Opinions

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Description

Starts on a boulder, right of Fat Hand. Boulder problem involving a dynamic move up and right on tiny holds leads past the first bolt to easier climbing. This section can be aided by pulling on the bolt, making the route 11b A0.

The dihedral above is the 11 crux, with easier climbing above to the anchors.

Location

This is the farthest right route on the wall just right of the Lavender Eye wall.

Protection

9 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

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Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.12c
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.12c
This route is super good for the upper climbing, the bottom crux boulder problem doesn't necessarily have to involve dynamic moves, but it is a little harder to do via the static/thin/ridiculous method. If V6 thin crimping is your thing, then do the boulder problem, but if you really enjoy amazing 5.11 jug hauling, then pull past it and do the rest off the route! Oct 23, 2009