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Routes in The North Forty

A Little Moore S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Accident, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Ace in the Hole S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Action Hotdog S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Adult Supervision S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
African Herbman S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Around the Fur S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Auntie Grandmother T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Balooga S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bearded Lady T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Big Top S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Brand New S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bulb, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Caught in the Closet Again S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chica Bonita S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chica Bonito S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Circus Freaks T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Class clown T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Clown Suit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Controversy, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Corn Grinder S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cotton Candy S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Count Chalkula S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cow Killer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cows in the Mist S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crab Louse S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crimp Scampi S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dancing Bears T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Dancing Outlaw S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dos Hermanos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dreadlock Holiday T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
E-Kat S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Earl's Revenge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eighteen Inches S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elephant Man, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Emmas's Got a Mullet S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Faded Memory T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fat Grinder S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fat Hand S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
First Normal Form S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flashbacks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Frankenberry S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Girth Hitch S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Goldmember S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Great Gracious Grant, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Greatest Show on Earth, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Goblin S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groove Tube T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groovy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guide's Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hangs a Little to the Left S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hardly Spot 'Er T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Harry Butthole Pussy Potter S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Honorary Brave S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horny Goatweed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hurricane, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ides of March, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jackhole S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jewell Always Smiles S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jewell Says S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Keep "Em Seperated T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kids Stuff T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Kurbcheck S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lamb Chops S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Lampe Land S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lavender Eye S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Left for Dead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Legacy 26 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Leonid S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lion Tamer S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Little Manly Man S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Little Miss Giggles T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Local Hebrew S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Love Slave S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
LoveMember S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Marek's Golden Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mclovin' It S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Meck, Mecke, What's the Difference? S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mefloquine Dreams S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mine Mine Mine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Missing Rack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Molt S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
More Better S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mossy Revelations T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Mr. Hanky S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Narwhal T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
New Karkaras T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Newton County Mentality S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ojos Locos S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Owen's Best Buddy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Paul's Redemption S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Perfect Hair Forever S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Perfect Trifecta, The S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Petrified S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Piratas Putas S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Playing Hooky S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poetry in Goshen T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Poison Ivy Route, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Private Property S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pulp Fiction S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Revenge of the Bat-moth T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roman Says S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Roman's Empire S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Romaniac, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scrambled Eggs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Seaana Says S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Season of the Storm S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Serfs and Lords S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Short Stack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Side Show T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Sin Nombre S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sin Nombre Moore S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slide Show T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smooth Criminal S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Some Moore Better S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Something for CiCi S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Something for E-Kat S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Something for Jewell S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Something for Roman S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sonny Jim S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sonrisa Loco S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sons of the Soil S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sour Girl S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spam S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stiff-Neked Fools T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Strongman S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sundial S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sure Thing T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Swiss Family Pancakes T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Tattoed Lady Direct T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tongue and Groove T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Too Short for the Short Bus S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Towely S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Towely 24HHH Variation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trapeze Artist S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tres Equis S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tunnel Vision S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Uncle Grandfather T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Walker Arkansas Ranger T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wanted Man T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Webster's Part S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Webster's Partner S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zeke's Didge Dance S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Zeppelin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
summer rain S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,790 total · 42/month
Shared By: Adam Peters on Jun 1, 2007 with updates from Michael Parker
Admins: TylerKC

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Description

Climb the easy slab and make the move into the roof holds, then enjoy the jugfest on the headwall. Good fun.

Location

Just to the right of Lavender Eye.

Protection

7 or 8 bolts

Photos

Erik Pohlman
Westminster, CO
  5.11b
Erik Pohlman   Westminster, CO
  5.11b
This is a little easier if you cheat out right low on the route, maybe around the 2nd bolt. It just seemed a little out of the way to still be on the route. Oct 24, 2007
John Calder
Spokane, WA
John Calder   Spokane, WA
This route is actually to left of lavender eye, not the right as the description states. Nov 27, 2007
Tradiban
  5.10d
Tradiban  
  5.10d
Totally reachy. At 6ft I was at full extension on the good holds before the roof. Anyone shorter would have to use a nasty two finger sloping crimp to get up to the underclings under the roof. Mar 30, 2010
Jon B
Kittredge, CO
Jon B   Kittredge, CO
I guess if your shorter than 6 ft. it would seem harder than a 10? Pretty good problem solving eh? The first time I climbed it I took a fall 3 times. The 3rd time I almost hit the back of my head. Felt really good when I finally clipped the bolt after the roof! Jan 1, 2012
Ignacio
Denver, CO
Ignacio   Denver, CO
As a 5' 6" climber, I had NO FUN in the crux move and couldn't pull it on my last visit, I know exactly what you mean. :-)

I found the 2nd bolt placement rather odd, too, I wonder if the rock was not good further right? Apr 25, 2013
AstroDood
his mind
AstroDood   his mind
Yee-Haw Feb 19, 2014
Jason Hortin  
 
A little bit of everything. The slab section is fun and challenging. As the guide book says, anyone on the shorter side may find it more difficult at the crux (roof). At around 5'10", I was able to extend to the great holds to go over. One of my favorite at the North 40! Apr 12, 2016
Torian Latiolais
Denver, CO
 
Torian Latiolais   Denver, CO
 
Went last weekend (10/8/2016) and climbed this route. Very fun route. There are now permadraws on all of the bolts. Oct 14, 2016
Noah Mendez  
 
Great route! To add to the height "debate," in the comments, Myself (a 5'10" M) and friend (5'5" F) both got the flash on this route and both deemed that the 11a rating was fitting and really enjoyed this route! We both agreed on the crux sections too and although we had different beta for the possible "height dependent" moves (which is also debatable, neither of us thought the moves were reachy, we just had to find the right feet), the moves seemed comparable in difficulty. Rather than letting the mountain project height dependent debate dissuade you from climbing this one, I'd encourage you to give it a go and see for yourself what you think! Super good route and because the start is slab and the roof section is pretty small you really won't blow too much energy just giving it a go and finding out for yourself if you think its a height dependent route or not. :) May 17, 2018

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