Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,876 total · 42/month
Shared By: Adam Peters on Jun 1, 2007 with updates from Michael Parker
Admins: TylerKC

You & This Route


176 Opinions

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Description

Climb the easy slab and make the move into the roof holds, then enjoy the jugfest on the headwall. Good fun.

Location

Just to the right of Lavender Eye.

Protection

7 or 8 bolts

Photos

Erik Pohlman
Westminster, CO
  5.11b
Erik Pohlman   Westminster, CO
  5.11b
This is a little easier if you cheat out right low on the route, maybe around the 2nd bolt. It just seemed a little out of the way to still be on the route. Oct 24, 2007
John Calder
Spokane, WA
John Calder   Spokane, WA
This route is actually to left of lavender eye, not the right as the description states. Nov 27, 2007
Tradiban
  5.10d
Tradiban  
  5.10d
Totally reachy. At 6ft I was at full extension on the good holds before the roof. Anyone shorter would have to use a nasty two finger sloping crimp to get up to the underclings under the roof. Mar 30, 2010
Jon B
Kittredge, CO
Jon B   Kittredge, CO
I guess if your shorter than 6 ft. it would seem harder than a 10? Pretty good problem solving eh? The first time I climbed it I took a fall 3 times. The 3rd time I almost hit the back of my head. Felt really good when I finally clipped the bolt after the roof! Jan 1, 2012
Ignacio
Denver, CO
Ignacio   Denver, CO
As a 5' 6" climber, I had NO FUN in the crux move and couldn't pull it on my last visit, I know exactly what you mean. :-)

I found the 2nd bolt placement rather odd, too, I wonder if the rock was not good further right? Apr 25, 2013
AstroDood
his mind
AstroDood   his mind
Yee-Haw Feb 19, 2014
Jason Hortin
Chicago, IL
 
Jason Hortin   Chicago, IL
 
A little bit of everything. The slab section is fun and challenging. As the guide book says, anyone on the shorter side may find it more difficult at the crux (roof). At around 5'10", I was able to extend to the great holds to go over. One of my favorite at the North 40! Apr 12, 2016
Torian Latiolais
Denver, CO
 
Torian Latiolais   Denver, CO
 
Went last weekend (10/8/2016) and climbed this route. Very fun route. There are now permadraws on all of the bolts. Oct 14, 2016
Noah Mendez  
 
Great route! To add to the height "debate," in the comments, Myself (a 5'10" M) and friend (5'5" F) both got the flash on this route and both deemed that the 11a rating was fitting and really enjoyed this route! We both agreed on the crux sections too and although we had different beta for the possible "height dependent" moves (which is also debatable, neither of us thought the moves were reachy, we just had to find the right feet), the moves seemed comparable in difficulty. Rather than letting the mountain project height dependent debate dissuade you from climbing this one, I'd encourage you to give it a go and see for yourself what you think! Super good route and because the start is slab and the roof section is pretty small you really won't blow too much energy just giving it a go and finding out for yourself if you think its a height dependent route or not. :) May 17, 2018