Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,047 total · 36/month
Shared By: Adam Peters on Jun 1, 2007
Admins: TylerKC

You & This Route


93 Opinions

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Description

Easy climbing up the slab situates you below a roof boulder problem. Clip the bolt above the roof and then move through the crux to jugs on the head wall.

Location

Between Sonny Jim and Green Goblin.

Protection

7 QD's,

Photos

Andy Chasteen
Oklahoma City, OK
Andy Chasteen   Oklahoma City, OK
It's between Sonny Jim and 1st Normal Form. Jan 30, 2008
Arthur Nisnevich
Boulder, CO
  5.12a
Arthur Nisnevich   Boulder, CO
  5.12a
Tricky and committing four-move boulder problem at the roof. The climbing until and past the roof is 5.10. Mar 16, 2008
Kevin W. Corcoran  
  5.11c
In my recollection, being tall was a significant advantage for the crux on this route. I remember the beginning of the route being very easy (5.8?). The crux was a little tricky to figure out but not particularly difficult for me. The end of the route is about 15 feet of steep jug-bashing. Oct 19, 2008
steven charles
  5.12a
steven charles  
  5.12a
I'd give it 12a. sure the climbing before the roof is easy, but pulling the crux is definitely 12a in my estimation. there is now a fixed draw (chain) hanging at the crux, so it's easier to clean, and you can get on it and not leave a biner if you can't pull the crux. Dec 18, 2008
Tradiban
  5.11d
Tradiban  
  5.11d
Sorry, not 12a. Easy to a V3+ boulder problem. My beta was to get more of a side pull out of that pocket. Mar 30, 2010
gabe14
 
gabe14  
 
i thought it was fun getting there but its like 5.10 climbing, and then the 5.12 move came and i found out its not tall guy friendly at all! i saw 3 short guys get it no problem and then all of us tall guys had to get all ugly and make up moves that sucks. if they even got it. Mar 21, 2011
Dakota from North Dakota
Golden, CO
 
Dakota from North Dakota   Golden, CO
 
Beta that would have helped me a lot would be to tape your right ring finger up pretty gratuitously. The first crux hold left my knuckle dented and torn Jul 28, 2013
Bob .
lyons, co
  5.12a
Bob .   lyons, co
  5.12a
Fun move over the roof. I'm 6'3 and didn't find my height to be a hinderance or beneficial. Bolt directly after the crux is silly. Skip it. Jun 8, 2017
Kyle Harding
Oak Creek, WI
  5.12a
Kyle Harding   Oak Creek, WI
  5.12a
Fun climbing , especially around the namesake feature of the route. Despite being short, I felt the crux at the roof hit the 5.12 grade. Mar 18, 2018