Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,830 total · 22/month
Shared By: Logan Smith on Oct 4, 2008
Admins: TylerKC

You & This Route


177 Opinions

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Description

Starts on big Horseshoe Jugs and then works up to the crux on the slab and then pull through to the top on jugs.

Location

This route is newly bolted and to the left of Sonny Jim.

Protection

7 and anchors.

Photos

Fun first 5.10 route- it's really only one hard move, which you can hit after you clip the bolt above it. The majority of the route is probably 5.8 climbing. I also don't think it's 65 feet- probably about 10 feet less than that. Jan 30, 2011
Spencer Scott
Kansas City, MO
 
Spencer Scott   Kansas City, MO
 
Pretty much everyone's favorite first 5.10a. The crux section has good bolts so you take very safe falls. It's also in the same section as a ton of other classics, which makes this area just more enjoyable altogether. Feb 9, 2015
Mark Orsag
Omaha, NE
  5.10a PG13
Mark Orsag   Omaha, NE
  5.10a PG13
I remember thinking that one of the bolts in the upper crux section must have been placed by a real tall guy! I am 5'9-10"... Remember finally working myself into a very awkward body position somewhat above the bolt and being very relieved when I clipped that bolt and moved on... If I had fallen , I believe that I would have hit the blackish chicken heads of the middle section. That would have been very bad. Otherwise, this was a very fun and varied route on strikingly colored rock. Mar 1, 2016
Jason Hortin
Chicago, IL
 
Jason Hortin   Chicago, IL
 
Lower 'crux' was fun, upper (true) crux was a bit harder. Ended up liking 'Sonny Jim' to the right of it a bit better - thought it was more interesting. Apr 12, 2016
Alicia Sokolowski
Brooklyn, NY
Alicia Sokolowski   Brooklyn, NY
I did it yesterday. Anchor had two bolts with mussies and seemed fine. Nov 24, 2017
Eli Smith
Madison, WI
  5.9
Eli Smith   Madison, WI
  5.9
I think the anchors had one bolt. The two-bolt anchor was for the trad line to the left of it probably? Seemed way off route when I was up there. Ended up using it anyway and caused a ton of rope drag.

I'd recommend avoiding this route for now. Nov 24, 2017
Will Bywaters
Fayetteville, AR
 
Will Bywaters   Fayetteville, AR
 
Favorite easy 10 on the north forty Feb 6, 2019