[Hide Comment] Don't blow it at the top, good little fall if you do. The crux is clipping the chains. May 20, 2011

[Hide Comment] Very true about the crux. My friend had the rope under his legs and slipped at the anchor resulting in him being flipped upside down. The upside is...he had his helmet on, which probably saved him from a nasty boo-boo, but yeah, look around the top before ascending to the anchors. I found some bomber holds on the right side leading up to the anchor and it was no problem clipping. Oct 6, 2011

[Hide Comment] What a classic climb! Steep and sustained with various rest. This is an enduro burner for sure, you really need to pay attention to your rest opportunities and use them well. The pump comes quick, the crux is definitely getting settled to clip the chains. Feb 9, 2015

[Hide Comment] I was fortunate enough to watch someone get their pilot's license when they learned to fly by taking a massive whipper when they couldn't clip the chains. Unfortunately or fortunately, depending on how you look at it, I was able to find a good clip stance and clip the anchors before I peeled off. We figured it was best to clip from the lowest possible point while you are still on that massive horn instead of climbing up higher onto thin, slopey holds. Either way, this is a fantastic route that should be on everybody's tick list. Mar 20, 2017

[Hide Comment] I threw up a heel to clip the anchors. I would recommend trying to find a rest before going into the overhang. Looked like there was a nest built in front of the anchors. Really sick route. Sep 3, 2019

[Hide Comment] This is SUCH a good route. One of my favorite 5.10 sport routes of all time. Spot-on for the grade. Aug 28, 2022