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Routes in Panty Wall

Black Lace S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boxer Rebellion S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brief Encounter S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Butt Floss TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Butt Floss Left TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Cover My Buttress T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Eat My Shorts T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Edible Panties T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Granny Panties TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Last Panty, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Office Manager T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Office Party S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Panty Line T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Panty Mime S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Panty Prow S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Panty Raid T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sacred Undergarment Squeeze Job S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Silk Panties S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thong T V-easy 3 R
Tighty Whities TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Totally Clips S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Viagra Falls S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Victoria's Secret TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wedgie S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Leo Henson & Albert Newman 10/98
Page Views: 7,835 total, 46/month
Shared By: Joe Irwin on Jan 1, 2004 with updates
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

All the holds are obvious, due to the excessive chalk. First three bolts are all .12 moves. Start on a ledge; you can go either straight up to the first bolt, which is more difficult, or move right off the deck up to a ledge of good holds and travers to the first bolt. After the fourth bolt, the pressure eases up considerably (maybe .7 or .8), with longer distances between bolts.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
There's a pretty good runout after the last bolt to reach the anchors, but you can fiddle in a .4 BD C4 to shorten the potential fall. Jan 12, 2016
Cathie Yun  
 
The section from the last bolt to anchors is a little run out, so I placed pro. My DMM #2 nut got stuck, so now that section is decently protected. Enjoy! Dec 1, 2015
Zach Harrison
  5.11+
Zach Harrison  
  5.11+
Super fun muscle clambering. If you somehow send the crux and manage whip off the top without the extra nut placement just hopefully your belayer wasn't slamming a mimosa like mine was! Feb 10, 2015
ACassebeer
Mojave, CA
  5.11c
ACassebeer   Mojave, CA
  5.11c
I suggest pre-placing the second draw (not stick clipping) and most people will be able to reach it from the good holds. The top of the route is just strange. It would be a good idea to add one bolt to avoid decking when a hold breaks. Otherwise the route is quite good and worth climbing. Jan 19, 2015
Chris Doobtrain
Sandy, Utah
Chris Doobtrain   Sandy, Utah
There is a heinous runout after the 5th clip or so, its a jug haul but if you fall from the top there is probably a good chance for a deck. Jan 8, 2015
Nathan Scherneck
Portland, OR
  5.12a
Nathan Scherneck   Portland, OR
  5.12a
I thought the first few bolts locations were fine and yes, the upper run out was serious. Definitely choose your holds wisely. Jan 2, 2015
Jeremy Noring
Salt Lake City, Utah
Jeremy Noring   Salt Lake City, Utah
Got on this route today; the top is *seriously* runout. Absolutely no warning in the guidebook about a very, very long runout to the chains (they're up and slightly to the right). 30 feet is conservative; it might be closer to 35'. It's long enough that I think falling near the chains would be deck potential. It either needs a bolt somewhere up there, or needs an R rating.

My advice if you want to do it is bring up a set of nuts and find a placement or two. Either that, or solo ~30' of 5.7ish climbing on sandstone that does break. Jan 1, 2015
Mississippi James
Brighton by way of dirty south
Mississippi James   Brighton by way of dirty south
I suggest stick clipping the second bolt b/c if you miss the move or your unable to make the clip there is ground fall potential. Fun route for sure but a candidate for moving some bolts including the third which is at your waist once you get to a clipping stance. Also, after the fourth bolt there is approximately a 30' run-out to the top! (Bolt missing?) The climbing is easy (5.7) but be careful b/c some of the rock is suspect. Dec 16, 2014
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.12a
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.12a
word on the street is this route is missing its last protection bolt- which, if true, would obviously need to be replaced. i've not verified this, but i would suggest caution when climbing this until someone who does bolt work gets out there to have a look. Feb 24, 2014
dnoB ekiM
  5.11c/d
dnoB ekiM  
  5.11c/d
I think 16 years and hundreds of(probably more than a thousand)ascents would suggest it does not need a retrobolt. Bringing some midsized nuts or small cams will sew up the top...which I agree is a bit run. I think I brought a 0.4 (grey) C4 and used it. At the time, the top bolt was also pretty manky. Feb 24, 2014
Murphski Adams
SLC, UT
Murphski Adams   SLC, UT
I feel like the runout above puts you into groundfall territory. The climbing is easy, but some of the holds are soft (I followed the wrong line of chalk and broke two footholds while at eye level with the anchor.) There are decent nut placements above the last bolt and I would recommend bringing some chocks. I think adding one bolt would be a good service to the route as it is listed as a sport route in the books and someone splatting from 60' in front of all of the gawkers at the first pullout will do nothing for climbing relations with the park. Feb 24, 2014
Patrick R. M.
Mesa, AZ
Patrick R. M.   Mesa, AZ
Second Colin's comment. From the 6th/last bolt, there are no anchors to be seen, but follow the chalk and run it out straight up on jugs for 20ft and they appear out of nowhere. Careful though, some of the rock seemed flexy/hollow. Jan 20, 2014
Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
  5.11c
Colin Parker   Idyllwild, CA  
  5.11c
I fell at the second bolt before clipping and was completely uninjured. My foot hit the small ledge but otherwise no big deal. By the way, not sure if the bolting has changed at all, but after the last bolt on the steep part of the wall it was ~25ft to the anchors without any bolts on 5.7ish terrain. Just a heads up. Apr 27, 2013
AustenE  
Pretty good. fall would be possible if your belayer is too stoned. I think the 5th bolt has either came completely out or is still able to move an inch in and out of the rock, but its easy climbing. Jan 12, 2013
Hilarious, the old stick clip debate again.

Sport climbing's ethical boiling point...who will survive the octagon of...ah, who gives a shit, it's a sport route. Jan 19, 2012
Pascal Ripoche
Berkeley CA
  5.12a
Pascal Ripoche   Berkeley CA
  5.12a
crux on second bolt i.e. possible ground (ledge) fall!!! though if you stick clip the second bolt you're not actually leading it : one star only!!!! Jan 19, 2012
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.12a
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.12a
A very good little line- definitely all business off the ground through the fourth bolt, then it eases off considerably. The third bolt will feel quite high for the shorter folks- be prepared to either reach high or climb through.

Note: Stick clipping the second bolt will prevent a possible groundfall at the crux- I've heard of more than one person hitting the ledge attempting the move. Jan 6, 2011