Elevation: 3,825 ft
GPS: 44.458, -103.859 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 805,950 total · 3,483/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Jul 21, 2002
Admins: Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

Description

Spearfish Canyon is a gorgeous canyon, lined with steep slopes capped by bands of limestone. The amount of rock in the canyon is staggering.

There are 7 or so main areas along the canyon, starting with Skeletal Remains and ending with The Shadowlands. There are also several smaller crags interspersed throughout. The rock quality tends to get better further up the canyon, with walls at Blue Sky, The Mohican, The Big Picture Gully, Sunshine, The Dark Side, and The Shadowlands holding some of the best stone you'll find anywhere.

The style of climbing varies from crimpy, small pocket tech-fests to slightly overhanging pocketed walls to steep and burly. Most areas have a good combination of routes of all styles, although certain areas are known for being predominantly techy, or pumpy, or bouldery, etc.

The approaches are relatively short for most areas, typically taking no longer than 10-15 minutes on well-established trails.

Ice Climbing

Spearfish Canyon in the northern Black Hills is an excellent place to learn to climb ice. The ice is very reliable, not very crowded, and is usually accessed by short approaches. All routes are in the WI2 - WI4 range, and there is potential to add some very difficult mixed routes in the Terminator Pillar amphitheatre.

Getting There

Go to Spearfish, SD. Take 14A south out of town.

868 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Spearfish Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 120
Bugs Bunny
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 93
Paha Sapa aka "Chockstoned"
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 134
Pakistani Route
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 113
Totally Flaked
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 68
Everything's Big In Texas
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 70
July 4th
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 72
Tasting Time
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 160
Yippey-Kay-Yay
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 72
The Sundance
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 63
Carp
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 112
Peace Pipe
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 60
Badgering the Witness a.k.a. "Th…
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 73
The Euphamiah Beresford Memorial
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 61
Astro Pop
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 114
Last of the Mohicans
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bugs Bunny Sunshine > Bunny Slope
 120
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Paha Sapa aka "Chockstoned" Mohican > [Redacted]
 93
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Pakistani Route Sunshine > Big Black Face
 134
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Totally Flaked Mohican > Head Shop Wall
 113
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Everything's Big In Texas Big Picture Gully > Fat Grandma
 68
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
July 4th Sunshine > Euphamiah Beresford M…
 70
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Tasting Time Blue Sky > Indecent Exposure
 72
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Yippey-Kay-Yay Mohican > Lady In Red
 160
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
The Sundance Sunshine > Prow
 72
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Carp Blue Sky > Fishbowl
 63
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Peace Pipe Mohican > [Redacted]
 112
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Badgering the Witness a.k.a… Shadowlands > Court House Wall
 60
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
The Euphamiah Beresford Mem… Sunshine > Euphamiah Beresford M…
 73
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Astro Pop Sunshine > First Wall
 61
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Last of the Mohicans Mohican > Indian Wars Wall
 114
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Spearfish Canyon »

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