GPS: 44.451, -103.864 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 12,815 total · 63/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Jul 22, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

Description

A small sport climbing area with easy access. Not a destination in & of itself, but some fun climbing nonetheless. Grades range from 5.7 to 5.11?.

The rock here is a bit polished from use; I guess that means it is pretty clean as well.

Getting There

From Spearfish and the start of 14A, go approximately 3 miles into the Canyon, look for a turnout / parking area on the right. The last time I was there the turnout was the 3rd one encountered on the drive.

There is an obvious trail on the N side of the parking area, follow that for a minute until you reach the rock.

24 Total Climbs

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5.7 to 5.13+ Aug 19, 2002
Greg Parker
Cardiff, CA
Greg Parker   Cardiff, CA  
13+? The grades range from 5.6 (Sewn Up) to 5.12c (Custer's Last Stud). If you want to experience a nice Pete deLannoy sandbag, get on Tongueless Wonder, 11a. Trivia question: Does anybody know how this route got its name? Nov 10, 2002
Nathan Renner was trying to put on a Vector and as he was doing it he pulled the tongue out and thus the name tongueless wonder. Jan 23, 2003
Greg Parker
Cardiff, CA
Greg Parker   Cardiff, CA  
Wow! That last comment had to be by Nate. I don't think anybody else knows that besides Pete. Jan 25, 2003
Miah  
I"ve always wondered were that name came from. Tonguless is one of the finest routs in the canyon and one of the best 5.11's I've ever done. It's also probably the hardest .11a I've ever been on. Jan 3, 2007
Greg Parker
Cardiff, CA
Greg Parker   Cardiff, CA  
Pete used to get all heated when I would suggest that Tongueless was hard for 11a... "you don't know dude. Go climb some runout 5.11s in the Needles, then come talk to me."
I think it's more like 11c. It's brilliant though. Fun to put your unsuspecting friends on. Jan 5, 2007
Parking Area and Trailhead are at N44°27.04 W103°51.82, the area is at N44°27.09' W103°51.82! Jun 20, 2010