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Tubesteak Boogie
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Avg: 2 from 15
votes
Routes in Skeletal Remains
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Budweisers and Bengay S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Buffalo Gap S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Buster Douglas S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cokes and Crowbars S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crucifixion S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Custer's Last Stud S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Dean's List, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Ear Bone S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Easy Like Sunday Morning S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Guilt By Association S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Incongruous Bare Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Liquid Sunshine S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lone Johnny & His 10-Inch Neck S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Plea Bargain S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Preparation H S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Presumed Innocent S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Scar Face S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sewn Up S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Six Gun Sally S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Soiled Dove S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Soiled Father Doves S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Son of a Thousand Fathers S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Storm Trooper of Love S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thursday afternoon delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tongueless Wonder S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Tubesteak Boogie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Walk in the Park S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 44.4514, -103.864 |
| FA: | Mark Athow |
| Page Views: | 887 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Apr 30, 2011 |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
Description
I know a gal who lives on the hill, she won't climb this route but her sister will...
A fun, overhung boldery start which can get rather hairy real quick if you can't reach the first bolt and make a last second clip. The first bit of pro is very high off the ground, very far away and in some ways, can be very awkward to clip.
...she does the Tubesteak Boogie...boogie woogie baby, boogie woogie on up to that first bolt.
From there, this climb gets real fun and enjoyable real quick. Stick-clipping the first bolt is recommended, but free climbing to make your first clip is pretty exhilerating. Be safe, be confident, either way have fun with this classic Skeletal Remains testpiece that shows off one's ability to do a bold climb, that is, if you don't deck onto the sharp rocks below.
Location
The very end of the wall. If you keep walking you will fun into a great 5.6 beginner climb known as Sewn Up.
Protection
Stick-clip, bouldering mats, a belayer who is not a total dink, a clear lead head, quite a bit of upper body strenth and fine tuned balance are a must for this climb. If you become totally unsure about the overhung lead, you can approach the first bolt from a ledge which jets out from Storm Troopers Of Love, but there have been multiple reports of climbers even abanding that move all together and sticking to the idea of leading Storm Troopers instead and set up atop rope for Tubesteak. This route has four widely spaced bolts and closed shut anchors that are shared with Storm Troopers of Love.
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