Budweisers and Bengay
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Type: | Sport, 69 ft (21 m) |
FA: | BBQ |
Page Views: | 191 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Barbie Cue on Oct 28, 2023 |
Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
Description
Essential tools for the aging sport climber. This route is a love letter to the old school ethics that demanded a far away first bolt and clipping stances on great holds that get you quite a few inches above your last piece of pro. Involves big moves at the start on semi-steep terrain. A crimpy sidepull crux in the middle then sends you to a slabby finish on jugs all the way to the top of the cliff. Definately the longest route at this easy to access crag that's normally stacked with short moderates. A great and obvious addition to the area and it only took a bit longer than two decades to come to fruition. Feel free to hangdog all over it before you go for that suspenseful send! Good stuff! GET ON IT!!
Location
Right hand side of Skeletal. Locate "Storm Trooper of Love" (the short crack route with the small roof) and count two routes to its left. Budweisers and Bengay is the long route between "Cokes and Crowbars" and another short route named "Soiled Dove".
Protection
7 bolts with a reasonable (but spicy!) amount of space between them. Stick clip the first! Falling onto the stumps and rocks at the base of the route would really suck. This route has sport anchors. Just clip them and lower. Please feel free to top rope through the anchors since the components that contact your rope are brand new and easily replacible.
0 Comments