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Routes in Skeletal Remains

Buffalo Gap S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Buster Douglas S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cokes and Crowbars S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crucifixion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Custer's Last Stud S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dean's List, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ear Bone S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Easy Like Sunday S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Guilt By Association S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Liquid Sunshine S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lone Johnny & His 10-Inch Neck S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Plea Bargain S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Preparation H S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Presumed Innocent S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Scar Face S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sewn Up S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Six Gun Sally S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Soiled Dove S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Soiled Father Doves S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Son of a Thousand Fathers S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Storm Trooper of Love S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tongueless Wonder S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tubesteak Boogie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Walk in the Park S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Pete deLannoy
Page Views: 1,407 total, 14/month
Shared By: BBQ on Jun 30, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description

For those about to DYNO, we salute you! It is recommended that you stickclip the first two bolts of this climb if you have never done it before. Even better, have a local who knows the dyno move for the opening sequence show you how it's done. Be prepared for a fall on your way to the third bolt while doing a stand-up sequence that is a bit difficult due to a secret, hidden hold. Crimp and smear your way past the fourth and fifth bolts, and after that, its a jughaul to the anchors. This climb is the true test of one's inner strenth, a gateway to the future ranking of strongman or strongwoman.

Location

Son of a Thousand Fathers is in the Spearfish Canyon Limestone guidebook. It is located to the right of Tongueless Wonder. Belay from the trail and get ready for a catch right off the deck.

Protection

7 quickdraws and closed shut anchors. Be careful not to backclip or get twisted in your rope when doing the powerful moves off the deck.

Photos

Schwab
South Dakota
Schwab   South Dakota
You are correct, sir! This route is absolutely a "gateway" to future hard men and women and a fine route. Case-in-point, I belayed a long curly-haired future hardwomen climber named Lee on this. It was Lee's first attempt to redpoint the route. Three times Lee fell attempting to make the move to stand-up and clip the third bolt. Each time Lee's hair would go flying as she came towards the ground, actually toe-tapping the dirt each time. Now Lee is a hard climber who frequents the Canyon with a Fabio look-alike. Jul 1, 2009