Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,255 total · 6/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Jul 22, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


35 Opinions

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Description

As you approach the wall from the trail, Prep H is more or less in front of you, just a bit to the left.

The climb moves up through a bit of a slot right above the second bolt then moves into a short right facing dihedral for the last moves. The move through the 'slot' is an awkward mantle type thing, and the dihedral moves can be a bit sandy.

When I was on the route the last bolt was between the anchor's closed shuts.

An OK route with some fun moves, but I've heard several comments that the 'awkward' move is spooky & mentally hard for 5.8. Try it, see how it goes...

Protection

5? bolts + anchor (2 closed shuts + a bolt?)

Photos

Joe M
Beckley, wv
  5.8+
Joe M   Beckley, wv
  5.8+
Definitely an akward route and a couple of moves are kind of scary on lead. But still a fun route, worth doing at least once. Sep 4, 2007
BBQ
 
BBQ  
 
This route deserves more stars because, in my opinion, it never gets boring. I've never done it the exact same way twice. It forces me to get my lead head on everytime I do it and is definately worth more than one go. However, I'd argue the rating is a bit off, since I have seen so many beginning climbers, fresh from the gym, get spit off this more challenging that it looks climb. I once had a real nice stash of bail beaners I cleaned off Preparation H, that I've since left in Ten Sleep. Jun 30, 2009
Seth Webster  
5.9
Definitely a scarier route and harder than a 5.8 imo. Once you get past the beginning, stemming is great. Jun 10, 2015