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Routes in Dark Side Wall

Admiral Slackbar S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Belaybesitter S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Hole S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Magic S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Blast Off S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Breast Pump S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
ChewCocka S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Choda S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Choobies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Concracktion S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Darth Gaydar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
E-walk S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Establishing Dominance S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gabba the Nut S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gives Good Helmet S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hail President Screwed! S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Han Job Solo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Into Exile S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Lactation Station S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Millennium Falcon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mister Fister S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Muira, Muira On The Wall S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Obi-Wan KanBlowMe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Passover S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Paternity Test S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Power of the Darkside S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Prison Bound S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shady Lady S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sinister S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sith S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Space Balls S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Star Fighter S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stump in the Rump S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Suck To Blow S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tough Love S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
black sunday S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
death star S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Mike Cronin
Page Views: 152 total, 2/month
Shared By: BBQ on Aug 2, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description

Oh my God! It hurts! But the pain is totally worth it in the end. This climb is phenomenal! Be prepared for big 5.11 moves to big holds with tinny-weenie-bikini holds in between. Starts in a crack that leads to a layback which then positions you on a dainty ledge with only a couple of killer mono's to crank your way to the next hold if you can find it.

The pain doesn't stop there! Keep navigating your way through hard to read holds up around the bend. This climb feels forever long because you won't see the anchors till it's nearly over. Just keep breathing and pushing your way up this canyon masterpiece the reward will be worth the effort.

Location

Moving from right to left (on the righter-most side of The Darkside wall before the climbs get shorter) would make this the sixth climb on this part of the wall where the 5.11 climbs live.

Protection

10 quickdraws and open shut anchors.

Photos

NWNINJA
Nederland, CO
  5.12-
NWNINJA   Nederland, CO
  5.12-
not really 5.11 climbing... those monos are tiny and shallow. not to be missed! One of the best pitches of "5.11" anywhere. Sep 10, 2017
michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.11c
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.11c
One of the best routes I climbed at Spearfish. Fun and rewarding moves all the way up on interesting features. Jul 5, 2016
WAGbag
Denver, CO
  5.11d
WAGbag   Denver, CO  
  5.11d
My vote for best climb at Spearfish and top 5 ever... Aug 25, 2011