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Routes in Indian Wars Wall

Battlecry S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Big Air Guitar S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Block and Roll S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Blood Brother S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Good Day for a Hangin' S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hang Em' High S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Last Dance S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Last of the Mohicans S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Leprechaun Cowboy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orphans of War S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ricochet S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sackupagawea S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Scalp, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Where have all the cowboys gone S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
teepee creeper S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,878 total, 37/month
Shared By: Ben Bodenhamer on Jan 6, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


64 Opinions

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Description

Perfect pockets and jugs watch out for nesting birds.

Protection

Bolts
Franck Vee
  5.12a
Franck Vee  
  5.12a
Amazing route - super fun. It has a number of longer moves, but they are still quite doable for shorties if you throw in some dynamic moves and/or intermediate thin sequences & high feet. The quality of the rock is absurd and the moves just flow very well. It's a cruxy 12a (3 harder section I see) but I don't think there is any real stopper moves among these, it's just solid 11+/12a sequences with pumpy stuffing in-between.

You get an amazing view at the top as a bonus.

Below is some beta so don't read if you don't want to know.

I'm 5'7", so for me the throw down low was really a dyno. It's an relatively easy dyno though, with a good ramp for the hands, lots of options for feet and a bomber jug to catch up above. I loved it - it gives characters to the route. Perhaps taller people can just reach with some sort of lock off.

Then I would say 2 other cruxes, both a little thin. The 2nd one for was bringing feet really high up after grabbing that sidepull directly above me - the first right foot up into a hand pocket is unconfortable and feel really precarious, but then when bringing up the left on the edge/crimp improves the position and you can reach for a good pocket from there.

The last crux is really around the last bolt (including clipping - it's hard after all the climbing below). I think I prefer to not clip it until I manage to get some sort of kneebar with a good hand, way to the left. At that point it's won.

Still need to link it though - too pumped to manage the last throw to the crimp above. Jul 27, 2017
Dustin Stephens
  5.12a
Dustin Stephens  
  5.12a
Great route, must-do 12a in this area May 18, 2016
Mike Wallraff
VAN(currently)
Mike Wallraff   VAN(currently)
Tightened it the best I could with hands. No wrench to crank with though. Did make me think it wouldn't be a bad idea to start carrying a crescent wrench with my gear. Aug 15, 2012
Did you tighten it? Aug 14, 2012
WAGbag
Denver, CO
WAGbag   Denver, CO  
A bit of a big throw down low then a thin crux that was a right thumb-catch gaston for me. Aug 25, 2011