Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Greg Parker, equipped by Pete deLannoy
Page Views: 5,822 total · 39/month
Shared By: Ben Bodenhamer on Jan 6, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


72 Opinions

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Description

Perfect pockets and jugs watch out for nesting birds.

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WAGbag
Denver, CO
WAGbag   Denver, CO
A bit of a big throw down low then a thin crux that was a right thumb-catch gaston for me. Aug 25, 2011
Mikel Cronin
Rapid City, SD
Mikel Cronin   Rapid City, SD
Did you tighten it? Aug 14, 2012
Mike Wallraff
VAN(currently)
Mike Wallraff   VAN(currently)
Tightened it the best I could with hands. No wrench to crank with though. Did make me think it wouldn't be a bad idea to start carrying a crescent wrench with my gear. Aug 15, 2012
Dustin Stephens
  5.12a
Dustin Stephens  
  5.12a
Great route, must-do 12a in this area May 18, 2016
Franck Vee
  5.12a
Franck Vee  
  5.12a
Amazing route - super fun. It has a number of longer moves, but they are still quite doable for shorties if you throw in some dynamic moves and/or intermediate thin sequences & high feet. The quality of the rock is absurd and the moves just flow very well. It's a cruxy 12a (3 harder section I see) but I don't think there is any real stopper moves among these, it's just solid 11+/12a sequences with pumpy stuffing in-between.

You get an amazing view at the top as a bonus.

Below is some beta so don't read if you don't want to know.

I'm 5'7", so for me the throw down low was really a dyno. It's an relatively easy dyno though, with a good ramp for the hands, lots of options for feet and a bomber jug to catch up above. I loved it - it gives characters to the route. Perhaps taller people can just reach with some sort of lock off.

Then I would say 2 other cruxes, both a little thin. The 2nd one for was bringing feet really high up after grabbing that sidepull directly above me - the first right foot up into a hand pocket is unconfortable and feel really precarious, but then when bringing up the left on the edge/crimp improves the position and you can reach for a good pocket from there.

The last crux is really around the last bolt (including clipping - it's hard after all the climbing below). I think I prefer to not clip it until I manage to get some sort of kneebar with a good hand, way to the left. At that point it's won.

Still need to link it though - too pumped to manage the last throw to the crimp above. Jul 27, 2017