All Locations > S Dakota > Spearfish Canyon

The Wall Of Oz Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map This is our best guess at this area's location.
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Routes in The Wall Of Oz

	Cowardly Lion, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Flying Monkeys S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	I'm Melting S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	If I Only Had A Brain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

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GPS:	44.4578, -103.8589 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	4,340 total · 17/month
Shared By:	Greg Parker on Dec 12, 2002
Admins:	Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty Page Updates (admin only)

Description

The routes and the setting at the Wall of Oz are spectacular. There are only four routes and they all start off of an exposed 3-4 foot wide ledge that runs the length of the wall on the side of the steep hillside. The routes are exposed and stick-clipping the first bolts is recommended, especially on Flying Monkeys and Cowardly Lion where if you were to fall off the ledge, you would fall about 10 feet to the ground and then continue to tumble down the steep rocky hillside. The wall faces southwest and can be hot in the summer until it pulls in the shade around 2pm.

Getting There

To get to the Wall of Oz, park at the picnic area about 11 miles up the canyon past the golf course. Once at the picnic area, look back down the road. The cliff is the obvious white square in the middle of the huge wall. To get to the cliff, walk back down the road and bushwack your way up the hill, approaching the ledge beneath the wall from the left. The trail is overgrown and needs to be re-established. Total approach time is about 10 minutes.