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Routes in The Danks

A Little Kush For The Final Push S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Beer Goggles S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Black and Tan S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Blowin' Kisses At Disinterested Bitches S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blue Sky Blond S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blueberry Train Wreck S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blunt Arete, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Booze Cruize S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Coin Operated Killing Machine S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Faded S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Freakin' High S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
GoldShlonger S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hash It Out S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hippie Grenade S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Housed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hurtin' for a Squirtin' S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
I Like These Plants S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
If We All Had a Bong Weed All Get Along S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jackinated S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jessica Crimpson S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
JuggerMeister S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kim Gnardashian S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Laughing Grass S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Mary Jane S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Munchies S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
My Bitch Makes Pizza S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
My bitch ain't no lady S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Pabst Blue Ribbon S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Party Foul S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Party In My Pants S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Patina Aguilera S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pickin' Fights With Dykes On Bikes While Wearing Sexy Spandex Tights S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Puke Stain, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Roach, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Root Beer'd S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sausage Party S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Schmitt's Gay S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Screaming Barfies S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
She Ain't No Lady Unless She's 280 S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Smearnoff S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Smoke Like a Chimney S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stakes Are High And So Am I S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sticky Icky S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tellin' Charming Lies Between Thunder Thighs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
This Is Your Brain On Jugs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Too Drunk To Huck S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Transversetite S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Twist One Up S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Upchuck S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Elevation: 5,880 ft
GPS: 44.278, -103.904 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 10,270 total · 147/month
Shared By: jamison coin on Apr 15, 2012 with updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty
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Description

Danks has morning sun , afternoon shade and a 5 minute hike. The area is home to about 50 routes with grades between 5.9- to 5.13+ with more going in. The routes here are pretty long and pumpy on very featured limestone.

Getting There

Park in pull out between shadowlands and sunshine . Walk back towards sunhine for about 150 yds and head up trail on west side of road. Parking lot is found just a bit north of Home Post 21498 when traveling on Highway 85.

49 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Danks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sticky Icky
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Twist One Up
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
If We All Had a Bong Weed All Get Along
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Party Foul
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mary Jane
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sausage Party
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stakes Are High And So Am I
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Booze Cruize
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
The Puke Stain
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Party In My Pants
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hippie Grenade
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Too Drunk To Huck
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
My Bitch Makes Pizza
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Smearnoff
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
She Ain't No Lady Unless She's 280
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Sticky Icky 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Twist One Up 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
If We All Had a Bong Weed A… 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Party Foul 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Mary Jane 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Sausage Party 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Stakes Are High And So Am I 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Booze Cruize 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
The Puke Stain 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Party In My Pants 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Hippie Grenade 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Too Drunk To Huck 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
My Bitch Makes Pizza 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Smearnoff 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
She Ain't No Lady Unless Sh… 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Danks »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
This area is a bit newer than the others in the canyon as well as the least visited by climber traffic which may have led to the inference that it's a dirty area. We have had above average rain this year as well and that can be a contributing factor to the accumulation of dirt on routes. Thank you for the acknowledgement of local climbers' feelings about the matter. Jul 22, 2015
Gneiss Yeti
Denver, Colorado
Gneiss Yeti   Denver, Colorado
Alright, alright. Maybe I was a little harsh on the ol' Danks. Maybe I was spoiled with the amazing quality of the many other crags I visited in the canyon. I do believe that the danks tends to have more silt on the climbs than other places in the canyon. Sorry for having an opinion. Also I took some quality time brushing and cleaning every route I did at the danks... Well... Because they needed it. I had no idea that merely stating the conditions of the climbs, may it be in early summer, were dirt, would cause such an strong reaction. I love spearfish and the canyon is a real gem. I would go so far to say that it boast some of the best limestone I have climbed on... Much better than shelf on avarage. Jul 21, 2015
BBQ
BBQ  
Oh the irony of it all. You come to South Dakota to escape the crowds in Colorado and then proceed to whine about dirty holds...that are probably dirty from a lack of traffic...due to the lack of crowds. Sorry if certain conditions, caused by nature, ruined your onsight. Bring a tooth brush. Bring extra chalk. Bring a better attitude. Drop the desire to onsight everything in sight because Spearfish Canyon climbing is about red pointing. Every climb, in every area, in Spearfish Canyon, has its imperfections and character traits which simply add to the challenge. Dealing with slimy holds, silt, flora, fauna, a lack of tick marks, the occasional loose pebble, and everything else the great outdoors throws at you is simply part of the fun here. You are not climbing at an indoor gym, you are climbing at a crag that is dear to us locals (warts and all) so please show some respect. And with that said, I will stop my soap box rant here and be the bigger man, or bigger Yeti, whatever applies. If you are a visiting climber to The Danks, rest assured, that I am here, on an almost daily basis, cleaning holds, maintaining trails, picking up your garbage, and making sure that these routes see the traffic they need in order to be safe for climbers and belayers. After my Million Cranks in the Danks Project is finished, I shall remain here. I will become the Danks Sasquatch. I shall be elusive, yet leave enough of a trace that you will not want to give up your quest to find me. And if you do find me, I will help you locate routes if you can't figure out which is which if you can't figure out that they are listed on this data base from left to right. I'll hang the draws, and brush the holds for ya while you wash your eyes out with saline and tend to your bruised ego that Spearfish Canyon delivers to you in spades. Seriously, folks, you should climb at The Danks. It is pretty awesome. Jul 20, 2015
Mike Madsen
Rapid City
Mike Madsen   Rapid City  
Choss! According to most people you have Colorado, Wyoming and Devils lake WI. There isn't anything in between just flat prairie lands. Jul 19, 2015
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
Yes, Mr. Gneiss, spearfish sucks. In fact the entire black hills area is awful. You may as well stay in Denver from now on. Jul 18, 2015
BBQ
BBQ  
Well, let's just hope that not-so-Gneiss guy never comes back, I like The Danks uncrowded anyway. But seriously, folks...I can assure you that Mr. Yeti's opinion is not held by the majority of climbers who have come to The Danks and actually enjoyed it. Jul 18, 2015
If you intend to criticize, please note that you have a common sense obligation to clean holds if they are feeling "sandy" or properly notify the route setter that they need to attend to maintenance work on their route. Jul 18, 2015
Gneiss Yeti
Denver, Colorado
Gneiss Yeti   Denver, Colorado
This area seems to boast a lot of sandy holds in comparison to the other crags at spearfish. Also take note that none of the routes posted for this area are organized correctly, seems odd since it's so easy to organize routes on MP. Jul 17, 2015

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