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GPS: 44.29371, -103.89337
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 31,810 total · 121/month
Shared By: Greg Parker on Nov 13, 2002 · Updates
Admins: Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty

Description Suggest change

The Thunderhead has one of the biggest concentrations of hard routes in Spearfish Canyon. The wall is very steep and most of the routes are bouldery. Expect difficult starts on sidepulls, underclings and pockets followed by sustained pocket pulling. A stick-clip is required to clip the first bolt on most of the routes. You'll understand why when you see the wall. Often times, you are in the crux at the first bolt and there is no stopping to clip. So, if you're feeling burly, come prove yourself on these Spearfish Canyon testpieces.

Getting There Suggest change

To get to the Thunderhead, turn right at Cheyenne Crossing (toward Newcastle) and park at the Sunshine Wall parking area, which is the large pullout on the left about two miles up the road. There is a sign at the back of the pullout that reads "Saunterer's Solitude". Walk up the road about 200 yards until you come to a residence. Directly across the road from their driveway is a faint climber's trail that meanders up the steep hill. A short five minute hike takes you right to the center of the wall.

28 Total Climbs

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Location: The Thunderhead Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Thunderhead

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 29
Spring Showers Bring May Flowers
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 55
Monsoon
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 11
Golden Showers
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 12
Flash Flood
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 9
Weather or Knot
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 6
Katabatic Cataclysm
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 8
Jack Twister
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 10
Zephyr II
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 64
Ripsnorter
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 31
The Tempest
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 14
Alice
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 6
Gale Force
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 10
Virga
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 7
In On The Killtaker
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 6
Deluge
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Spring Showers Bring May Fl…
 29
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Monsoon
 55
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Golden Showers
 11
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Flash Flood
 12
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Weather or Knot
 9
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Katabatic Cataclysm
 6
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Jack Twister
 8
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Zephyr II
 10
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Ripsnorter
 64
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
The Tempest
 31
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Alice
 14
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Gale Force
 6
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Virga
 10
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
In On The Killtaker
 7
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Deluge
 6
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Thunderhead »

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