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Routes in The Thunderhead

Alice S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Arcing Arm Hairs S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Deluge S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Derecho S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Drizzle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dust Devil S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
F5 S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Flash Flood S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
G.A.S. S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Gale Force S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Golden Showers S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
In On The Killtaker S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Jack Twister S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Katabatic Cataclysm S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Monsoon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nimbostratus S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rainbows in the Dark S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Reigning Pussies and Bitches S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ripsnorter S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Smoke and Mirrors S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Spring Showers Bring May Flowers S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Squall, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stormchaser S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tempest, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Virga S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Zephyr II S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Greg Parker
Page Views: 4,431 total, 24/month
Shared By: Greg Parker on Nov 14, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

Intimidating route that climbs the steepest section of rock on the left side of the Thunderhead. This route is a sustained power-endurance climb with wild sequences. The opening sequence is very difficult and gets you in the mood for the crux mono section and heart-breaking redpoint crux up high. This is one of the canyon's hardest routes and has been described as hard for the grade.

Protection

9 bolts, open cold shuts anchor
Greg Parker
Cardiff, CA
 
Greg Parker   Cardiff, CA  
 
I just realized you can link to youtube videos. What a good Saturday morning activity...

youtube.com/watch?v=dA4s5eM… Jul 7, 2012
Miah
  5.13b
Miah  
  5.13b
Raether was there five years ago? I'm sure he'd crush now. Matt is the "14a climber from Wtoming"? He's definitely a good guy and strong as hell. I'm not sure when I'll be back, I'm thinking about making a trip out in the spring. The only problem is the weather can be total crap then. If not the spring the fall would be good. I'd like to come throw myself at Hopeful Monsters again. I'm planning on hitting up Charleston to get back in pocket pulling mode and then we'll see what happens. Are you working Hopeful or In on the Killtaker? What's up with you these days? I hear your the new hard man in town. Your going to have to step up and crush a few of the old projects before word gets out and somebody else comes creeping in. It's good to see your name up there give me a ring sometime. Jan 3, 2007
From what I understand (Hahn told me about it) it was a number of years ago (5 or more) that Raether visited and got on the routes. I've never really talked to him too much about it. He didn't seem psyched for one reason or another when we did talk about the canyon though. Not sure why, the canyon is hard to beat. I imagine he would take care of business now though. Wendling looked good on all the routes he got on. Fun to climb with him. Miah, when are you coming back next? It would be great to see you up here. Jan 3, 2007
Miah
  5.13b
Miah  
  5.13b
As for the mono, don't yard on it. Set your feet and jump, only use the mono to keep yourself in. The entire steep section is pretty much just grab and go. There's a big drop knee just before the final roof but otherwise save your feet for the finish.

Raether didn't even do Alice! Wow. Well, he's always got Rifle. Jan 3, 2007
Greg Parker
Cardiff, CA
 
Greg Parker   Cardiff, CA  
 
From what Jason told me, the only other route that Andy got on besides Hopeful was Alice.... and he didn't do it. In fact, Jason said he got pretty frustrated here and vowed never to come back. The guy climbs 14+ in Rifle and southern Utah! Jan 2, 2007
Chris Hirsch
Rapid City, SD
 
Chris Hirsch   Rapid City, SD
 
I tried this route when I was out there last summer and that mono crux scared me. I thought I would lose my finger if I fell. Maybe I was doin' it the wrong way? I might give it another try this spring/summer. Jan 2, 2007
Miah
  5.13b
Miah  
  5.13b
Did Andy Raether get on it? Did he get on anything at the Thunderhead? Jan 2, 2007
Greg Parker
Cardiff, CA
 
Greg Parker   Cardiff, CA  
 
I don't think anyone has sent it besides me, Dale and you. Again, McNabb was close before the season ran out. I think Scott Hahn was close, but I don't think he did it. You guys can correct me if I'm wrong. Jan 1, 2007
Miah
  5.13b
Miah  
  5.13b
Arguably the best route in the Canyon! Unbelievable movement on stellar stone w/ just enough holds to keep it flowing. Bring your sprinting shoes and watch out for the tree on the final headwall. Has this thing seen any ascents other than the first three? With all the strong boys I'd like to think it's a regular send these days. Dec 31, 2006
Arguably the best route at the wall. Very hard, but some of the best dynamic climbing you will ever do. This route is the epitome of climbing at the thunderhead. When you're ready, strap this brute on and crank it out. I have seen everyone who has redpointed the route and their attempts, and let me tell you this one will take it to your limits. Superior! Dec 19, 2002