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GPS: 44.458, -103.859 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,417 total · 7/month
Shared By: john walker on Dec 10, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

Description

Spearfish Spire is a must do. it is located upstream from oliver twist. Anyone who does not know where Oliver Twist is located can find it by purchasing the Spearfish Canyon guidebook that will be published and for sale this spring. In it you will find about 300 bolted limestone routes. From Oliver Twist walk upstream look for the spire of limestone that is 90 feet tall. The route has many bolts to a very unique summit. Have you evey climbed a limestone spire?

Getting There

Get the spearfish canyon guidebook and walk upstream from oliver twist. The route is on the upstream side on the spire. look for the bolts as there are many.

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There is a bolted line on the south side of the spire, good positioning and moves lead to the top of a 90' spire. Not a typical limestone area with loose rock off route. I've seen large rocks fall into the area beneath the route, it's best to belay from a protected area about 10 feet from the base of the route. Wade through a sea of poision ivy or wait until spring/fall. To my knowledge 4 people have summited this formation. Aug 27, 2004
I have actually climbed the spire twice and found it to be chossy. I had holds break near the bottom and simply crumble torward the top. I wouldn't suggest this climb to anyone. Nov 30, 2004
this route is chossy, the rock quality gets worse off route, ie. this is not a typical canyon route.If you cut your teeth in Spearfish canyon you wont like this route. The stress of climbing a route that has not been cleaned can put you in over your head on this route. If you have any experience climbing desert spires you may enjoy Spearfish spire. It's 5.9 with lots of bolts, the summit is fun the climbing is testy. Dec 1, 2004
Can't find it. How far of a walk upstream from the dam is it, and how far east is it. I cant believe I cannot find a spire... is it up on the canyon wall? Jul 11, 2008
well after parking in the little pull out across from the man made pond cross the creek and walk upstream. as you go count the telephone poles. On one of the poles, probably 5, there was a piece of rope indicating that you now look for a trail that leads toward the canyon wall. I know it sounds a bit hobbitish, but the last time I was there the trail was improving as was the route. The spire is not obvious and it is close to the wall, the top is below the main wall. If you can find oliver twist keep looking, up canyon. You could walk along the bottom of the main wall until you bump into it. The route has been poo pooed by some of the developers of the canyon cuz there stuf is so much better.

As for josh theurer, why would you climb this twice if it was so bad? Oct 7, 2008
pretty fantastic climb actually. not very cleen, but where else do you get to climb 90' in the canyon. bring some draws; it has about 13 bolts. i recommend this route to most anyone. Apr 16, 2010
A decently steep approach, but it can be seen from the road. The rock is unclean, and kind of crumbly. I would recommend making sure all of your holds are solid before putting significant weight on them. 13 bolts, and relatively easy 5.9. The only down side to this climb is that the ANCHORS ON TOP ARE LOOSE. The hangers spin, and the nuts holding the hangers on also spin, I would wait to do this climb until it has been confirmed that the anchors have been fixed. But there is an additional anchor above the two original anchors, that is solid, but it does not have a second to match it. Nov 9, 2015

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