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Routes in Big Picture Wall

Armageddon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beauty and the Beast S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Better Off Dead S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blockbuster S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Clockwork Orange S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dazed and Confused S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
First Blood S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gorillas in the Mist S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Grease S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Maximum Overdrive S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Quest for Fire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Raw Justice S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Slaughterhouse Five S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Something Wicked This Way Comes S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
T2 Judgement Day S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Total Recall S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Totally Orange Gorillas S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Totally Recalled S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Mike Cronin
Page Views: 1,375 total, 10/month
Shared By: Mikel Cronin on Nov 13, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

Stick clip first two bolts. Great crux at bottom. This route has been extended as of fall 2006. The block that all the weak minded people used at the top is now gone. You must stay on face and continue up the black face.

Location

2nd route from left

Protection

bolts

Photos

Franck Vee
  5.12b
Franck Vee  
  5.12b
Well, the bottom crux felt really, really, really stiff for 12a. So I gave the route 12b because of that part. I'm thinking about other 12a cruxes in Spearfish that I have attempted (Argmageddon, TLOTM, Black Hole...) and nothing is close to that in difficult IMO.

Once the crux is done however, it's just fun 11+ climbing on great pockets. I can't imagine linking however, the crux at the start is already super taxing and the route doesn't let up above.

I loved that after all those pockets, the last moves to the anchors are in a completely different style, kind of just checking if you remember how to grab a side pull after all those pockets. Aug 5, 2017
Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
  5.12b
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
  5.12b
For the 2nd bolt, you may want to consider putting 2 quickdraws together. With a normal draw, the rope gets pinched on an edge that isn't that sharp, but it still will put wear on your rope if you are falling and/or working the bottom moves. A longer style draw (like the petzl spirit) prevents the rope from getting pinched, but now that edge can actually open the gate of the rope end biner! 2 quickdraws put together (biner/dogbone/biner/dogbone/biner) works best! Food for thought... Sep 7, 2015
Jon Marek
Sioux Falls, SD
 
Jon Marek   Sioux Falls, SD
 
Super Fun! The bottom crux has a real OUCH factor on tiny crimping under-clings, best to get it done the first try. Jul 2, 2011
N. Guimond
  5.12a/b
N. Guimond  
  5.12a/b
This is an excellent route. The bottom is VERY strong and I had to aid through the bear hug move. The rest is beautiful and sustained with big holds and excellent movement. Not as reachy as maximum overdrive. Well bolted. I hang-dogged up it on lead, but another one of our party onsighted it. It was probably 5.12a/b based on his abilities. Highly recommended! Sep 6, 2010
Mikel Cronin  
 
Greg
I did not climb the extension yet just cleaned and equipped it. I think it may add a letter for sure, crimpers and slopers! Then the Quest extension will go to the same anchors. It follows the prow. I do not think it will add any grade just 30 more feet on super good rock. Nov 14, 2006
Greg Parker
Cardiff, CA
 
Greg Parker   Cardiff, CA  
 
Ha. How hard is the extension? Nov 14, 2006