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Routes in Big Picture Wall

Armageddon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beauty and the Beast S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Better Off Dead S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blockbuster S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Clockwork Orange S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dazed and Confused S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
First Blood S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gorillas in the Mist S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Grease S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Maximum Overdrive S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Quest for Fire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Raw Justice S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Slaughterhouse Five S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Something Wicked This Way Comes S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
T2 Judgement Day S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Total Recall S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Totally Orange Gorillas S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Totally Recalled S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 188 total, 4/month
Shared By: Diana Crabtree Green on Jul 8, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

Strenuous start, followed by fun technical climbing. Crux is right of last bolt - be ready to move around a bit and step high.

Gorillas in the Mist (13a) is the continuation with an additional three bolts beyond the first anchors.

Location

Right of Clockwork Orange.
Left of Something Wicked this Way Comes.

Protection

6 bolts.
Franck Vee
  5.12a/b
Franck Vee  
  5.12a/b
I have to say, the crux of this route (going to the anchors above last bolt) may very well be the best, nicest, greatest sequence of moves I've done in Spearfish Canyon after 2 weeks of climbing here.

You get there, you nothing at all and have no clue as to how the hell you're supposed to reach those anchors. Then little by little, a plan starts to form in your mind. However it likely involves feet so high and such a shitty right hand that it may feel more like wishfull thinking than a viable plan. But, if you're delicate enough and your balance is just right, you'll be amazed to see it will actually work!

The rest of the route is good as well, somewhat easier save for the bottom crux which I found just as hard (although more burly, which above is almost entirely technical). Just wish it were a bit longer. Aug 5, 2017
bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
Definitely harder than 12a below the first chains, and so squeezed at the bottom its lame. The unpleasant tweaking at the low roof was a bummer. The extension was brilliant and hard- compression moves with horrid feet. Oct 14, 2016
Julia
  5.12a
Julia  
  5.12a
The bottom of this climb is mind blowing! The top and crux section is very hard, especially now that the last bolt has been chopped, safe fall but a big one if you miss the moves. Sep 5, 2015